Mt. Foraker, Infinite Spur, Ascent by Lads. At 4 p.m. on May 26, Gren Hinton and I skied into the Infinite Spur's amphitheater. In the afternoon heat, the walls all around us began to wake after a storm and, restlessly stretching, began to shed th...
The north face of Putala Shan is an impressive big wall, which I have tried twice. I have not attempted the same mountain twice since 1990, when I made my last winter solo attempt on Fitz Roy in Patagonia. My first attempt on Putala did not go wel...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT, NO HARD HATColorado, Hallett PeakPaul Briggs (32) and Larry Layman (32) were climbing the Northcut-Cartel route on Hallett Peak. Layman had just run out a length of the rope when, for some unknown reason, he fell. He ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION – KNOT PULLED THROUGH BOLT HANGERCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn October 27, Jim Fisher (30) and I, Scott Earnest (27), set out to climb Lurking Fear (20 pitches, VI 5.10 A3), our first El Cap route. W...
Red Rocks Routes. Some of the routes done in the Red Rocks since the completion of the manuscript for my guidebook in 1981. Black Velvet Canyon: Sandblast (5.9), FFA October 1985 by Nick Nordblom, Paul Van Betten. This is a free ascent of the aid ...
Tocllaraju on Two Artificial Legs. Following a railway accident 24 years ago, Englishman Norman Croucher has had metal replacements below the knees on both legs. He has made many routes in the Alps as well as ten ascents over 16,000 feet, includin...
AMS-ASCENDING TOO FAST, LATE START, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchOn July 16, Jans Hogenacker (22) and his party of seven—who had little experience and were unable to recognize the symptoms of AMS as they developed— w...
Trango Nameless Tower, South Face, First Japanese Ascent. Three Japanese recorded the first Japanese ascent of Trango Tower (6239 m) via the south face Slovenian Route on July 17 at 4 p.m. Their ascent took them 27 days. Group leader Tatsuo Shinoh...
Pensive Tower, Gloomy Ruminations. Over a gorgeous Labor Day weekend, Bryan Schmitz, Neil Kauffman, and I ventured into the West Fork of Rock Creek in the Beartooth Mountains and completed a new route on Pensive Tower. The tower’s west face is bor...
Waterfall Climbs in the Canadian Rockies. In January, Jay Smith and I completed the first ascent of a waterfall on the northeast face of Mount Rundle, locally called the “Drip,” which had turned back many of the best climbers in the area. We spent...
Sudarshan Parbat and Other Peaks, Gangotri Glacier. Our expedition consisted of five climbers and two doctors from India: Zerksis Boga, C.D. Danthi, Vijay Kothari, Kanu Pomal and me as leader, Dr. Rodhan Shroff and Dr. Vasant Desai; and four climb...
Matt Helliker and I climbed a new route on the amazing east face of the Moose’s Tooth, rising from the Buckskin Glacier. There’s a Moose Loose Aboot This Hoose (1,400m, ED 4, M8 A2 AI6) climbs the obvious big fault line, attempted by Christophe Du...
This is the fifty-ninth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the twenty-eighth issue in which The Alpine Club of Canada has contributed data and narratives.Canada: In 2005 an unprecedented summer avalanche warning was issued for...
FEW mountain climbers there are who have not spent untold hours arguing over the merits of this or that ice axe, or whether Tricouni or Swiss edge nails are better, or any one of the innumerable controversial subjects involved in mountaineering eq...
At the highest levels of alpinism, altitude continues to be less and less of a factor in the style climbers choose to make an ascent. This is not a new trend, but it was illustrated with an exclamation point in 1997 as climbs on Latok II, Thalay S...
The Grand Teton by the North FaceFritiof M. FryxellIN the history of the Grand Teton, the climbing season of 1931 will probably take rank as the most notable. Early in the summer, two wholly new routes to the summit and one partly new, were added ...
Arrow Peak (13,810 ft.) was the major climb of the season. Carleton Long, leading, and John Nelson performed it in twelve hours from Ten-mile Creek. This is one of the finest expeditions in the San Juans, and was the first of the Grenadier Range’s...
The Springs of Adventure, by Wilfrid Noyce. Cleveland and New York: The World Publishing Company, 1958. 255 pages; 21 ills. Price $4.00.We have all had to cope with that eternal question of the non-climber— "Why do you do it?” Hereafter, I shall m...
At 18,008' and 12 miles from salt water, Mt. St. Elias offers the worlds biggest summit to sea drop. Canadians Marcus Warring and Ryan Bougie and I (Telluride, CO) wanted to climb the southwest ridge (Harvard Route) and then ski as much of the mou...
The Logan Mountains, Northwest TerritoriesARNOLD WEXLERThere has been little in the way of mountaineering in the northern latitudes east of Alaska and the western fringes of the Yukon. This may be due, in part, to the prevalent notion among climbe...