Czech Expedition to Kohe Tez, Akher Chaq, Kohe Urgent and Other Peaks. The Czech High Tatras Expedition was led by Miloslav Neumann. The other members were Z. Drlik, Dr. L. Divald, M. Greisel, M. Kriššak, P. Macak, M. Pelc, V. Petrik and V. Tatark...
“The Bat”, “The Coccyx”, “Perdition Peak”. These previously unnamed and unclimbed peaks on the Newhalem-Marble Creek and McAllister-Marble Creek divides were topped by Phil Dahl and me in August 1967. From the end of the overgrown logging road up ...
Annapurna I Attempt. For ten weeks from mid-March to the end of May we were on Annapurna. We were Siegfried Siebauer, leader, Günther Schnait, Erwin Beyerlein, Dr. Bernhard Einzinger, Heinz Herbert Güntner, Gerhard Kern, Karl Heinz Kimer, Jürgen K...
Mount Hunter, Northeast Ridge. On May 15 we were flown to the Kahiltna Glacier. Camp I was at 8200 feet on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Just above was the key to our route, a 1300-foot ice gully, which led to the top of the northeas...
Ostgletscher, near Qorqup Sermia Glacier, Southwest Greenland. Twenty-four members of the Brathay Exploration Group under my leadership visited southwest Greenland from July 26 to August 23. The members were senior boys from schools, undergraduate...
Baruntse, North Ridge Attempt. The north ridge of Baruntse has usually been attempted from the more accessible Khumbu region. Climbing to the ridge from this side can be very hazardous because of avalanche danger (AAJ, 1981, pages 249-251). Instea...
Cerro Ladrillero, from the northeast. In the austral extreme of the Americas, nature becomes savage, with steep geography that includes a labyrinth of islands, fjords and mountains, glaciers, deep forests of incredible colors, and land that’s diff...
Nun, Kun, and Kashmir peaks. Due to the troubles in the state of Kashmir no expeditions were permitted to the popular peaks of Nun and Kun. Similarly, no climbing has been allowed in the entire area of Kishtwar. Both southern Zanskar and Kishtwar ...
Annapurna Winter Attempt. Jon Patterson, Peter Keane, Maury McKinney, Jeff Montgomery and I hoped to climb the east side of the south face of Annapurna and to continue up the east ridge, but high winds made us apply to change to the Bonington rout...
Glaciers of Mount Shasta. Several of the glaciers of Mount Shasta were visited and described, and their present condition compared with earlier observations.Fifty years ago the snout of Wintun Glacier is said to have reached the 8,000-ft. level, b...
Moses, Pale Fire, Canyonlands. In May, Chip Chace and Charlie Fowler made an all-free ascent of the original route on the north face of Moses in Taylor Canyon. The 600-foot route, when done completely free, requires two 5.11 pitches and one, the f...
HEAT EXHAUSTIONBritish Columbia, Coast Range, White MountainA group of young men and women were taking a four-day Introductory Mountain Walk Course of the Canadian Outward Bound School, Kermos, British Columbia. They left the school at 1030 hours ...
Fast and Light on Fitz RoyGalen A. RowellIn OCTOBER, 1985 Michael Graber, David Wilson, and I drove a thousand miles from Bariloche through the heart of Patagonia in the early spring. Our plan was to go fast and light on Fitz Roy, but we imagined,...
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. The work of Chairman Steve Schneider, Jane Koski, Tadeusz Gladczenko, Tony Watkin, Paul Romero, and others was reflected in the fact that our section grew to over 900 members by year’s end. A brief wrap-up of the year’s...
CHRISTINE LINCOLN REID1906-1990Christine Reid, known to her friends as “Pussy” or “Pooh,” was an enthusiastic mountaineer, skier and white-water canoeist. She was born on May 8, 1906 in Belmont, California and received her early education there in...
Tsuyoshi Nagai, Tadao Shintani, and I returned from Tibet in November, after five weeks and 4,800km of travel. Accompanied by Zhang Jiyue of Sichuan Earth Expeditions, we had been exploring unknown peaks and glaciers in the Nyanchen Tanglha East a...
Selkirk Range of British Columbia, 1945. In August 1945 A. J. Kauffman, II, with several companions, made a number of ascents in the Southern Selkirks, concerning which the following notes have been received:“We made a dozen or so climbs, includin...
Yosemite Valley, Various Activity. Dean Potter, in outlandishly bold style, made a new solo speed record of the Regular route on Half Dome. Taking only 4:17 (and smashing the old record by 16 hours), Potter free-soloed most of the route, carrying ...
Spies in the Himalayas: Secret Missions and Perilous Climbs. M.S. Kohli and Kenneth Conboy. Lawrence: University of Kansas Press, 2003. 248 pages. Hardcover. $29.95.It’s hard to imagine climbers playing a role in the nuclear political drama of the...
TERRANCE MANBECK “MUGS” STUMP1949-1992Snow swirls softly in the gray sky and settles deeply over the fractured ice, muting its soft edges. Higher, the bitter wind hurls itself against the ridges and buttresses of Denali, the Great One, the soul of...