Haramosh Southwest Face. Our expedition was composed of Janusz Baranek, leader, Mieczystaw Jarosz, Mirosiaw Konewka, Kazimierz Malczyk, Andrzej Mostek, Jan Nogas, Dr. Jadwiga Skowronska, Jacek Wiltosinski and Karimierz Wszolek. Base Camp was at 32...
Hoja, Sangre de Condor. In the French Valley a Columbian-Venezuelan team climbed a new route on Hoja. Columbians Sergio Garcia and Sebastian Munoz and Venezuelans Manuel [last name unknown] and Jorge Guerra faced bad conditions for most of their c...
The Indian Mountaineering Foundation, new appointments. During November elections for the President and the Governing Councils of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation were held in New Delhi. The current President, Shri N. N. Vohra, was elected una...
Annapurna Winter Attempt. Darko Berljak led a group of 12 Yugoslavs and Americans in an attempt on Annapurna. Miroslav Sveticic intended to climb the virgin west face solo but did not actually attempt it. His teammates climbed the Dutch route on t...
Tirich Mir. On July 22 our Spanish expedition established Base Camp in Babou Kapoun at 15,400 feet. We were Antonio Bahí, Dr. Amando Redondo, Jorge Camprubí, Ramón Majó, Enrique Bonastre, José Lleonart, José María Díaz, Juan Frontera, Franz Ludwig...
Cho Oyu, Post-Monsoon Spanish Expeditions. Our expedition from Navarra was composed of Dr. José María Artetxe, Alfonso Ballano, Javier Bermejo, Juan Beroiz, Pili Ganuza (f), José Miguel Goñi, Agustín Pagola and me as leader. On September 2, we arr...
Stanford Alpine Club. Most of the practice climbs were rained out during the winter. During Easter vacation, however, members drove to Nevada to climb Montgomery Peak (13,465 feet), on the California-Nevada border, and then proceeded to the Hot Cr...
On August 10, two experienced climbers climbing together for the first time met at the mouth of American Fork Canyon at the suggestion of the younger climber, Christian Burrell (25), who proposed establishing a new route. James Garrett (59) had es...
"Madhil Sar"/Shifiitin Sar, clarification. After a conversation with Chris Clark of the 1986 British expedition to Shimshal Whitehorn, Lee Harrison has confirmed that the peak he called "Madhil Sar" (ca 5,700m) in the 2007 AAJ (pp 321-322) was in ...
Mount Miller, First Ascent. In January, I noticed in Climbing magazine that a group had been awarded a Mugs Stump Grant to attempt the first ascent of 11,150-foot Mount Miller in the Wrangell/Saint Elias Range of Alaska. Ostensibly, Mount Miller w...
Minaret Glacier. The small glaciers on the northeast face of the Minaret Range in the Sierras were also visited in August, 1933. Comparing the appearance of the largest of these tongues with that shown in a photograph made in 1923, suggests that a...
Pik Korzhenevskoy and Pik Kommunizma. From Moscow, Tom Dyer, Ed Hirschowitz, Matt Koehler, Dave Rhude, Peter Stock and I on July 12 endured a four-hour flight and an eight-hour bus ride to the Achik Tash Base Camp. We left Achik Tash on July 14 by...
Cho Oyu Ascents from the North and Tragedy in the Pre-Monsoon Season. Climbing Cho Oyu from the west continues to be done frequently, with approaches both from Tibet and Nepal. (See the Nepalese section for those who approached from the south.) Fo...
Roberto delle Monache and I hoped to repeat the Spanish route, Impossible Star (1,300m, 28 pitches, UIAA VI A3+, Aldeguer-Martinez-Moreno-Tomas, 1984), on the west face of Bhagirathi III (6,454m). However, the weather proved too bad for rock climb...
Chip Chace and I climbed the right side of the Sorcerer’s Apprentice, a striking Yosemite-style pinnacle a mile and a half downstream from Grandstaff Canyon. The rock was somewhat softer than Castleton, but the three 5.10 pitches were compact enou...
Connecticut, Ragged Mountain—On Saturday, May 16, Bert Puchtler (22), John Magyar (20), John Kopf (22), George Ganung (22) and Bob Glass (20) set out to climb Berts’ Folly, class 5+. The day was sunny and warm. The climb consists of an easy 70 ft....
FALL ON ROCK, PITON AND NUT FAILUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, YamnuskaAlan Fielding (34) was leading the second pitch of the Grillmair Chimney on Yamnuska at 1330 hours on 19 August 1978. He pulled off a loose block and fell. First a poorly placed ...
Ocshapalca, South Face Correction. On page 187 of A.A.J., 1983 it incorrectly states that an Italian and two Frenchmen made a new route on the south face of Ocshapalca. The route had been previously climbed by Mark Richey and Robert Blatherwick in...
North Face of Golden Horn. Golden Horn, at the head of the scenic west fork of the Methow, is an imposing rock castle from the north and east. Unfortunately for the climber it lies a long way from the Methow road and the granite is a very scaly, l...
Baintha Brakk, Southeast Ridge, and Latok I, North Ridge, Attempts. During July and August, nine climbers performing as two teams attempted to make the first ascents of both the north ridge of Latok I and the southeast pillar of Baintha Brakk (the...