Foraker Attempt. After trying for a week to run and hide from avalanches in the icefall leading to the northeast ridge of Mount Foraker, Peggy Scott (now my wife) and I finally decided to climb the ridge to the right of the icefall but ran out of ...
Peak Pobeda, Ski Descent, Attempt. “Mt. Victory” (pronounced po-byeh-da in Russian) was the last major peak in the Soviet Union to be scaled, and despite the popularity of skiing in the adjacent Pamirs, it still remains unskied in its entirety. Da...
Trident and Other Peaks, Cordillera Carabaya. Our party, W. Good-fellow, S. C. Dudley, D. G. Massam, R. G. McKenzie, Dr. G. G. Jackson, A. O. Parton, J. Dowd, A. N. H. Chinn and I as leader, was mostly from the Auckland Section of the New Zealand ...
Ingolfsfield, Angmagssalik Area, East Greenland. Information on two significant expeditions in 1971 eluded us until published in Mountain. Both hoped to climb Ingolfsfjeld (8698 feet), a peak that rises directly from the tide-water of Kangertitvas...
Berge in alle Ewigkeit, by Jost Perfahl. Salzburg/Stuttgart: Verlag Das Bergland Buch, 1960. 351 pages, with 22 plates (5 in color), and bibliography. Sw. Fr. 16.80.Mountain experiences and tragedies of all periods, from Hannibal to Harrer, form t...
Ali Ratni Tibba, Kulu. Our party consisted of Dave Nicol, my wife Marjorie Anne, Jim McArtney, Chris Radcliffe and me. From Advanced Base at 13,000 feet we climbed the whole of the route in two days, May 25 and 26, reaching the summit (18,013 feet...
Makalu Attempt. A Spanish expedition under the leadership of Miguel Gomez failed in their attempt to climb the southeast ridge of Makalu, reaching 7200 meters on October 16.Elizabeth Hawley
FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount RainierOn July 4, 1985, at 0100, Jay DeRocher (29) was struck by spontaneous rockfall from Cathedral Rocks Gap while attempting to ascend the Disappointment Cleaver Route. DeRocher was struck on the left side of the t...
Cordillera Huallanca. Our team of ten included climbers and doctors: Mario Guiliano Mainini, Desiderio Dottori, Renato Beretta, Mario Corsalini, Diomiro Mancini, Mario Moretti, Dr. Dino Checchia, Dr. Enzo Bianchini, Celso Salvetti and me as leader...
Pinnacle Peak and Other Ascents. Our group of ten from Toronto was flown to the upper basin of the south arm of the Kaskawulsh Glacier. The weather was good, the Base Camp was placed in a fabulous setting at 8600 feet, we were the third party and ...
Cochamó, Señor Cara de Papa, La Cara de Decepción. Mid-January, 2010, after two weeks of consistent rain, Matt Othmer and I established the first route on the last formation before the pass to El Monstruo, across the valley from Trinidad Sur. We c...
Annapurna, Winter Attempt. After our success on Yalung Kang, Laurence de la Ferrière and I wanted to climb Annapurna by the 1950 French route on the north face. Knowing the dangers, we hoped to climb alpine-style, taking advantage of our acclimati...
Acopán Tepui. Pizza, Chocolate y Cerveza. In March, back in Venezuela again, we were preparing for another intense tepui (flat-topped mountain) experience. John Arran, nicknamed “La Máquina” by the Venezuelans, was particularly keen following last...
Mount Mitchell, North Face, Wind River Range. Dick Dorworth and I stumbled into this fine free new route, trying to find Chouinard’s north-face route. In our first attempt we were driven off by hail three pitches up. The difficulty and the lack of...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. An all-female expedition consisting of Mrs. Grace Hoeman, Margaret Young, Margaret Clark, Mrs. Dana Isherwood, Faye Kerr, and Arlene Blum were climbing McKinley.The 5th of July all members rested at 17,200 foot level. At 05:0...
FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE CLOTHINGAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn April 28, 1989, the North Ireland Alaskan Expedition left for the West Buttress of Mount McKinley in order to acclimatize for the Cassin. After taking eight days to reach 4300 meters and spend...
Julliard Mountain Club. The Julliard Mountain Club, founded in the blackened depths of Manhattan’s upper west side in 1965 by Dobbs Hartshorne, began its activities with weekend rock climbs at Ragged Mountain in Connecticut. In the next four years...
Cuerno Este, first ascent, Lauchon Este. In early March 2006 Milena Gomez and I, both Argentine, completed the first ascent of Cuerno Este. We approached the peak from the Bader Valley.Our new route, which we christened Lauchon Este, climbs a line...
P 9100, Delta Range. During the last week of July, Mike Litzow, Eric Sloan and I slogged up the Casner Glacier, over Thunder Pass and down onto the Johnson Glacier. We climbed P 9100 by its west ridge in poor weather, encountering no real climbing...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, IMPROPERLY PLACED RELAY ANCHOR,POOR POSITIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount VictoriaOn August 19, 1991, David B., Ian F., and Renata S. were descending from Abbot’s Pass hut around 0830, and reached the bergschrund about 0900. ...