Chopiraju Oeste, Kimarumi. On June 24 Jeff Lee, Merle Wheeler, Pat Weidman, Dick Webster and I entered the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca and set up Base Camp at the opening of the Quebrada Cayesh the next day. On the 26th all but Jeff began a climb of Ch...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. The past year was one of continued growth and expansion of the club’s activities. An unusually mild winter saw considerable activity at our local areas, particularly Devils Lake. One winter outing gained a possible f...
Talus: A History of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Dean Engle. Peter Randall, Hanover, 1993. 253 pages, index, three appendices, many illustrations, two maps. $24.50.The DMC (not to be confused with the DOC—Dartmouth Outing Club) was started i...
Orion’s Reflection. The great canyon walls of the Wind River Range contain many spectacular features seldom seen by the climber, but perhaps nowhere are there more surprises than in the southeastern portion. Glimpses from the Bears Ears Trail in p...
Washington, Guye Peak—On April 10, Steve Hoit (17), and 17 other climbers climbed Guye Peak. The weather and climbing conditions were good. The party was well equipped and adequately clothed. The party descended en glissade down a steep snow slope...
AVALANCHE, BAD WEATHER Washington, Mt. RainierThis is an account of an accident which befell Willi Unsoeld (52) and 21 of his students from The Evergreen State College while attempting to climb Mt. Rainier in late February. It covers the essential...
FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Quandry MountainOn September 6, two climbers, a woman named Sunny (40) and her companion, a man (42), were ascending the Class 4 West Ridge on Quandry Mountain when Sunny slipped on loose...
Cho Oyu, southwest face to west ridge, partial new route. On October 2 the accomplished Slovenian mountaineer Pavle Kozjek soloed a partial new route to the summit of 8,188m Cho Oyu. Starting from an advanced base at 6,200m on the Gyabrag Lho Glac...
Trango Nameless Tower, Slovene Route. It was reported that the Spanish team of Txuma Ruiz and Julián Beraza repeated the Slovene Route. Further details are lacking.
Koktang. An Indian Army expedition of five members made the first ascent of Koktang (20,990 feet), which lies south of Kangchenjunga. Major K. S. Rana, Captain K.P.S. Ahluwalla and two Sherpas reached the summit on April 26.
Czechoslovakian Earthquake Victims, Llanganuco. A 15-man Czech expedition attempted the south face of Huandoy in May. On May 18, one of their number, Ivan Bortel, slipped and fell 100 feet down a brook bed while descending unroped on easy terrain ...
Peak 29. A Japanese expedition of eight men and two women was given up after three of them were killed by the blast of an avalanche on September 14. The group, led by Tumio Tanaka, was attempting the southwest face and south ridge of Peak 29. Camp...
Aguja Saint Exupery, Buscaini Route, Variation. The early part of March, 1997, witnessed a spell of ten days of good weather. Diego Magaldi and Jorge Kozulj climbed Aguja Saint Exupery during this window, following for the most part the Buscaini r...
Kyes Peak, Northeast Ridge. An extended logging road on the north fork of the Sauk River makes this new route, climbed by me on September 14, the most direct of the three approaches available. From the road end follow good trail two miles to Curry...
SLIP ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains South, Mount Billy BuddOn August 18, J.C. and G.H. departed from a climbing camp located on north side of Houston Lake on a “day off’ hi...
Udren Zom Central. A nine-man Japanese expedition was led by Koji Hirai. On August 10 Toshinori Niwa, Koji Morita, Nobuyuki Sakurai, Terunobu Ishii and Michio Kubota climbed to the top (23,229 feet) from Camp IV at 22,000 feet. This was the first ...
Numbur Attempt. A Japanese expedition, led by Senkichi Kitaoka, attempted in the pre-monsoon season to climb the northwest ridge of Numbur (6959 meters, 22,832 feet). They got to Camp III at 21,650 feet but found the ridge beyond too knife-edged t...
Buckeye Mountain. This small peak lies on the south-southeast ridge from Whitehorse Mountain, about a half mile distant. Rich Carlstad and I made its first ascent on August 9, as a prelude to our fifth ascent of Mount Bullon the following day. Fro...
Rosh Gol Valley, Chitral, Hindu Kush Range. On July 7 Peter Far- quhar, my husband Gene and I with 12 members of the newly formed University of Peshawar Mountaineering Club, led by Mr. Farzand Ali Durrani, left the town of Chitral for the Rosh Gol...
Annapurna Ascent and Tragedy. An expedition of Austrians, Swiss and one Czechoslovakian was led by Hanns Schell. They were on the mountain at the same time as the West German expedition described below. After abandoning the Dutch route because of ...