Cho Oyu, 1979. Mischa Saleki from Iran illegally soloed Cho Oyu. After crossing the border into Tibet over the Nangpa La (18,750 feet), he made his Base Camp on September 20. His high camp was at 23,300 feet on the Austrian 1954 route on the west ...

Devil’s Peak, new routes. A popular spring climb, this peak lies at the headwaters of Coal Creek east of Silverton. In 1962 the North Face was climbed by Al Clairmont and Ray Pruiett via a large 100-foot chimney and steep moss-covered friable rock...

Nanga Parbat, Rupal (South) Face Reconnaissance. The Germans, Karl M. Herrligkoffer, Toni Kinshofer, Gerhard Haller and Klaus Scheck, re- connoitered the Rupal face of Nanga Parbat, finding an avalanche-free route to their projected site for Camp ...

Glacier Dome Attempt. A French group led by Michel Richard attempted the north face of Glacier Dome (Tarke Kang), the route of the Italians in 1981. They placed four camps. They were defeated by arriving too late; Base Camp was established on Octo...

Moose's Tooth. In July, Chris Bonington, Sandy Bill, Tom Frost and I made an attempt on the south face of the Moose’s Tooth. After two good bivouacs we reached the height of 1600 feet on the wall. We were then forced to descend when hit by a lengt...

Peak Pobeda, Zhuravleva Route. First place in the High Altitude Class of the Russian Climbing Competitions was taken by the team “Sever” from Severod (S. Penzov, leader, M. Ishytin, M. Strelkov) who climbed on Peak Pobeda (7439m) by the 1990 Zhura...

Cordillera Carabaya. Our expedition climbed in the Nudo Allinccapac. The members were Anthony Bland, Hugh Donohoe, Clive Ogilvie, my wife Elspeth and I as leader. From June 15 to 22, we attempted the south side of Cornice. We approached from Macus...

Sermiligaq Fjord, East Greenland. On August 10 we arrived by fishing boat at Angmagssalik. Ice prevented our trying to reach our first objective, Sermilik Fjord. We set out for Depot Fjord out ice blocked the way there too. Consequently we headed ...

Steiermark, by Robert Löbl. Introductory text by Hieronymus Riede. Munich: Süddeutscher Verlag, 1961. 96 pages, with two maps and 80 full-page photos, captioned in three languages.This is an excellent picture-book, showing the scenery, life and pe...

Baihili Jot, Duphao Jot, Chamba-Lahul. Five British mountaineers, all past or present Outward Bound Instructors, joined five Indian climbers sponsored by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation to climb in the Chamba-Lahul Himalaya flanking the Myar ...

Makalu. Jean Troillet and I twice headed for the west face of Makalu in 1988. In the spring, we had to call it off since Troillet broke his leg during the approach. During the autumn, we both returned joining Hans Eitel’s expedition. Troillet and ...

AVALANCHEWashington, Mount RainierOn June 23, 1985, Barbara Miller (23) and Mark Valdez (26) were ascending the Emmons Glacier and had reached an elevation of 3800 meters when they heard a loud noise. Within seconds they were covered by a hard sla...

Nevado Shicra Shicra, and Other Peaks, Cordillera Huallanca. Steve Moore, Dave McClung, Rob Wilson and I hitched a ride on a mining truck to the village of Pachapaqui on the west slope of the Huallanca range. A reconnaissance turned up some intere...

Mount Logan. There were a number of ascents of Mount Logan in 1990, most of them by the King Trench route. Successful groups follow: Alaskans Steven Parker, Chris Austin, Rachel LaCrosse, Dave Brailey and Scott Raynor from May 5 to June 1; Alaskan...

In early February, Zoroastro Eduardo and I established two new routes in Cochamó, on Pared de los Placeres: Erotica and Hay Que Disfrutar, each 500m, 8 pitches, 5.10b. We placed no bolts, and the descents are walk-offs.

Annapurna Attempt. Swiss Jean Troillet and Pierre-Alain Steiner attempted a new route on the northwest face of Annapurna to the left of the attempted French route of the pre-monsoon and on the face itself. They made an alpine-style attempt without...

Matawi Tepui (a.k.a. Kukenan Tepui), attempt and exploration. In the first week of February, climbers Federico Pizani, Luis Cisneros, Chris Gardner, and I, Maikey Lopera, and trekkers Dan Kopperud and Lindsey, as support crew, left from Caracas fo...

Prospectors Mountain, Northeast Face, Tetons. Eager to test the dimensions of a weekend trip to the Tetons from Moab, Utah, Bob Degles and I commenced the journey late one Friday and arrived at the White Grass Ranger Station early the following mo...

Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Tom Kensler (22) and five companions reached 14,600 feet on June 21st, used the 22nd as a rest day, and Kensler moved to 16,400 feet on the 23rd. During this period Kensler had headaches, but with the aid of aspirin was able ...

Brammah Attempt, Kishtwar Himal. The aim of our expedition was to make the first ascent of Brammah (P 6416, 21,050 feet)* between the Kibar and Nanth Nallahs of the Kishtwar district of Jammu and Kashmir. The trip followed our two expeditions of 1...