EDWARD OLIVER WHEELER 1890–1962Brigadier Sir Oliver Wheeler who died in March, 1962 was the son of our late member Arthur O. Wheeler and the father of our member John O. Wheeler. Arthur O. Wheeler joined the American Alpine Club in 1903 and died i...
On the right side of the east face lies a thin, straight couloir, almost a chimney, that provides an unbroken line of very steep water ice from the ’schrund to within 80 feet of the summit. This hose makes a fine alpine ice route that goes to a di...
AAC, Alaska Section. The Alaska Section’s members were active not only in Alaska, but around the world in the past year. Members traveled to Antarctica, the Himalaya, South America, the Continental United States, and Europe. Within Alaska, members...
Pucaranra, West Ridge. A strong Italian expedition climbed a difficult new route, the west ridge of Pucaranra (20,168 feet). We were Renato Binaghi, Elio Boreatti, Dr. Emma Cucchi, Eugenio Porro, Antonio and Gianni Rusconi, Andrea Sioli, Gianbatti...
University of Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club has been one of the most active in the midwest since 1953, when we separated from the Chicago Mountaineering Club. Our club has been instrumental in the development of Devils Lake, Wisconsin, int...
Mukar Bey. Students and instructors of the Himalayan Institute of Mountaineering in Manali have reported climbing a number of high peaks: Mukar Bey (19,910 feet) on October 6 and 13, CB 10 (Tara Pahar, 20,430 feet), CB 50 (20,000 feet) and M5 (20,...
NOLS Wilderness Mountaineering. Phil Powers. Stackpole Books, Mechanicsburg, PA. 241 pages, many drawings, glossary and index.NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School) has taught wild country camping, mountaineering and skiing for thirty years fol...
Grand Teton, Northeast Couloir Gully. In mid-July Charlie Fowler and I climbed a gully filled with water-ice which rises from the northeast couloir. The gully begins about 1000 feet above the bergschrund of the couloir. After six pitches it ends a...
Washington, Mt. Rainier (2)—On August 7, at 11:30 a.m., a member of a guided party, Ronald Swearinger (21) was struck by a falling rock while negotiating the chutes on the Gibralter route on the return trip from the summit. He received bruises and...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED AND UNPROTECTED Pennsylvania, Delaware Water Gap, Mt. MinsiOn January 10, Hugh Dougher (25) attempted to climb an ice flow on the Mt. Minsi cliffs. Near the top of the flow the thin ice disintegrated, causing Dougher ...
STRANDED, PARTY SEPARATED, FAILED TO FOLLOW ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, NotchtopOn August 21, Wes Oren (age unknown) had completed an ascent of the Spiral Route (III, 5.4) on Notchtop with two companions. At 2...
Cho Oyu, shooting of Tibetan refugees. When shots rang out near Cho Oyu's crowded advance base camp on September 30, climbers ventured out to see what was going on. A professional photographer from Romania, Sergiu Matei, took his camera and was in...
Trango Nameless Tower, Slovene Route Attempt. Celia Bull, Donna Claridge, Kate Phillips, and “Grandma” Geraldine Westrupp attempted to make an all-women ascent of the Nameless Tower. We arrived at the Dunge Glacier Base Camp (4200 meters) on July ...
Kangchenjau. The second ascent of this 22,603-foot peak was made in 1961 by the Indian S. Gyatso. It was first climbed in 1912 by Dr. A. M. Kellas but had repelled several other later attempts.
Huascarán and Huandoy. Our group of seven began climbing activities by the middle of May. A three-man party succeeded on May 26 in climbing the south peak of Huascarán. They were struck by the earthquake when they were descending after evacuating ...
Manaslu Attempt. The leader of a Japanese expedition, Seiji Shimizu, and Yasuo Kato failed in their attempt to climb the first-ascent route on Manaslu (26,760 feet), the northeast face. Their highest point reached on October 7 was about 26,250 fee...
Argentine Patagonia, Slovenian Activity. On Aguja Guillaumet, Damjan Kocar and Peter Subic climbed the left couloir (V+ 65°, 300m) on February 12. Kiemen Mali and Monika Kambic (female) climbed it on February 17. Mali and Kambic then added a new s...
The Minuteman, Liberty Bell Massif. On July 30, Bill Lingley and I ascended the Minuteman, which lies just south of Liberty Bell and east of Concord Tower. Beginning at the apron’s left-hand base, the route climbs for three leads to a group of eve...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONBritish Columbia, Golden Canyon, Lady KillerOn March 11, while leading the first pitch of Lady Killer (II W13), A.M. fell after placing three screws on the first half and then running it out to the top. He fell to...
Garmush, Hindu Raj. Our expedition, which followed the west ridge route on Garmush climbed by the Austrians in 1975, was composed of Yoshiaki Shimomura, Yoshifumi Takahashi, Takafumi Miyazaka and me, as leader. We established Base Camp at 15,425 f...