Royal Tower, Southeast Face, Little Switzerland. During a week-long trip to Little Switzerland, Lloyd Miller and I climbed on July 10 and 11 a new route on the southeast face of the Royal Tower (2478 meters, 8130 feet.) The route starts to the rig...
Anchorage Mount McKinley Expedition. Helga Bading, Andy Brauchli, Paul Crews and Rod Wilson were flown to 8200 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier on May 7 to join Chuck Metzger, who had been flown in the day before. On May 16 they established their sixt...
Yalungkang. Yalungkang was climbed via its southeast face by a Korean expedition led by Park Soo-Jo. On October 13, Sho Kang-Ho with Ang Dawa Tamang and Gombu Sherpa completed the 18th ascent of the peak.Elizabeth Hawley
Temple Peak. On August 12, Woody Stark and I climbed Temple Peak by a new route that starts from Temple Pass. We climbed up talus to the base of the spire between Silver Saddle and the Class-4 route, around its right side and then up to the saddle...
A. A. C., Cascade Section. In the spring, just prior to the departure of the K-2 expedition, Dee Molenaar and Pete Schoening, of our Section, gave an excellent account of the plans for the trip and had available for examination various items of eq...
Everest Attempt. A six-man Australian expedition was led by Michael Groom. They first attempted to climb the west ridge of Everest from the Western Cwm, getting to 7400 meters on April 24. They then turned to the South Col route, where they reache...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—PULLED OUT, FATIGUE Utah, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn October 1, 1988, a male climber (35) was making a move at the top of a climb on Ledgemore Wall when his hand slipped from a hold and he fell ten meters, his prot...
Eric Shipton: The Six Mountain Travel Books. Diadem Books, London & The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1985. 800 pages. $30.00.This is the age of re-runs, revivals, retreads of old classics. On Broadway, in the White House and the air waves, nostalgia...
The Mountain World 1955. English version edited by Malcolm Barnes. 222 pages, 64 illustrations, 24 maps. New York: Harper and Brothers, 1955. Price $6.00.The third annual volume published by the Swiss Research Foundation is even better than its pr...
Guillaumet and Mermoz. Briton Andy Parkin and American Stephen Koch completed a new route on the Aguja Guillaumet’s southeast face on February 2. The difficult route lies to the left of the Piola route. It begins up a large central couloir and fin...
Trivor. An Anglo-American expedition under the leadership of Wilfred Noyce made the first ascent of Trivor (25,325 feet) in the Hispar Muztagh. From the Trivor Glacier they reached the col between Trivor and Momhil Sar, where they established Camp...
Mount Moffit, Northwest Ridge, 1975. After a reconnaissance, Mike Sallee, Doug Buchanan, Jim Jennings and I started up the northwest ridge of Mount Moffit and placed camps at 7000 and 9800 feet. After fixing the route up a 600-foot face and along ...
Mount Hooker, Brain Larceny. In September 1994, Topher Donahue and Kennan Harvey established Brain Larceny (V 5.12 R) on the north face of Mount Hooker. Further details are lacking. (See photo on following page.)
AVALANCHE, PARTY SEPARATED—NO RESCUE ATTEMPT Alaska, Flattop MountainIn October of 1992, four Anchorage climbers were ascending a gully on Flattop Mountain just outside of Anchorage when they were struck by an avalanche. Two were buried, one poppe...
Annapurna South or Moditse. The Sendai Alpine Club expedition led by Yuji Sasaki in the post-monsoon season was prevented from reaching the top by bad weather and technical difficulties.Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club
Other climbs in the Bugaboos. A party consisting of Ed Cooper, Art Gran, and Rome Sadowy ascended the north ice face of Anniversary Peak, probably for the first time. This 2000-foot crescent shaped ice slope rises from the Bugaboo Glacier tongue a...
Everest Attempt. An Indian expedition led by Pranesh Chakraborty unsuccessfully attempted to climb Mount Everest via the Great Couloir. On September 22, they got to 7500 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
Mount McKinley, New Start on the American Direct Route, South Face. A Japanese expedition led by Kichitaka Kimura and composed of Ms. Tamae Watanabe, Yuji Tsuneto, Mitsuo Yamaura and Yushichi Senda made a new direct start on the direct route of th...
Broad Peak North (7,750m), west face and south ridge, then traverse over Broad Peak Central (8,011m) to Broad Peak Main (8,051m). On July 9 Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo, and Mikel Zabalza reached the summit of Broad Peak North after climbing a...
Mushroom Route, Papoose Rock. The right half of Papoose’s front face, just above the Squamish-Woodfibre Ferry Dock, had not yielded a route until this two-pitch climb was done by Dave Beckstead and me in October. The climb scales a fairly difficul...