WILLIAM P. HOUSE1913 - 1997Bill House grew up in Pittsburgh, attended Choate, and went on to Yale, where he became an outstanding leader of the Yale Mountaineering Club. He made some difficult local ascents and, in 1932, with Alan Willcox, made th...
The Northern SelkirksArnold WexlerNORTH of the Canadian Pacific Railroad, within the big bend of the Columbia River, are the rarely visited northern Selkirks. A casual glance from the highway that parallels the river, or from the railroad in the B...
Gasherbrum IV, Northwest Ridge Attempt. We left Dasso with eleven American members, a liaison officer, sirdar and 132 porters on May 8 and arrived at Base Camp at 15,500 feet on the West Gasherbrum Glacier on May 19. Actual climbing began on May 2...
An Attempt on Everest’s West Ridge from TibetGalen A. RowellIN MARCH 1983 I traveled through Tibet to Mount Everest with sixteen other members of the American Everest West Expedition. Bob Craig was our overall leader, and I was the climbing leader...
Mt. Kinabalu, Low ’s Gully, East Face, Attempt. Climbers Steve Long, Dave Turnbull, Paul Platt and Chris Parkin, with Paul “Chip” Rafferty, Charles Stead and Jon Rees in support, attempted the first big wall style climb in Malaysia from March 14-2...
FALL ON ROCK, SLACK ROPEArkansas, Horseshoe Canyon RanchMy wife Kylie and I (age unknown) were climbing at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch near Jasper on December 22.1 was going to lead Frankenberry (5.9+), a six-bolt route approximately 60 feet in length....
FRED DONALD AYRES 1906–1970The mountains meant a very great deal to Fred D. Ayres, who was Professor of Physical Chemistry at Reed College when he died last summer at his home in Portland, Oregon. His wife Angela and son Fred continue to reside in...
On December 29-January 1, Paul Gagner and I finished a 1,500-foot east buttress route (11 pitches, 5.10 A2) started by Glenn Rink et al and never completed. Noebels, Mish and George Bain went up to try the route, but there were “too many people,” ...
Pumari Chhish South (7,350m), attempt on south face. Two French climbers were among the first to visit the range last year, making a couple of very spirited attempts to climb the south face of the virgin Pumari Chhish South (7,350m). Yannick Grazi...
A Treasury of Mountaineering Stories, edited by Daniel Talbot.Pp. xii, 337. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1954. Price, $5.00.As the literature of mountaineering becomes richer with the ever broadening interest and participation in climbing, it is...
Boris Dedeshko and I reached the North Inylchek Glacier on foot from Bayancol with all our gear. Our goal was the north face of Pik Prezhevalskogo, which lies up a side branch of the main glacier. The peak was climbed twice in 1974 but never since...
On and Around Anyemaqen Galen A. RowellBack IN THE DAYS when mountaineering was a solitary pursuit, even great expeditions functioned in relative isolation. Base Camps, however populous, were seldom visited by outsiders. Today’s trend is to aim bo...
Broad Peak Foresummit. A four-man Spanish expedition made an ascent to the foresummit of Broad Peak on July 1 after a three-day sustained ascent from Base Camp. They had previously been acclimatizing by preparing Camps I and II. The final ascent w...
Joshua Tree Rock Climbing Guide. Randy Vogel. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1986. 401 pages, black and white photographs, line drawings, maps. $25.00 (paper).Joshua Tree National Monument is the winter playground of snowbound climbers from all over th...
Saraghrar Southeast, first ascent. In July a Neuchatel Swiss Alpine Club expedition, which comprised nine members led by Jean-Michel Zweiacker, made the first ascent of Saraghrar Southeast (7,208m) in the High Hindu Kush.On June 22 the expedition,...
El Mocho, Torre de la Media Luna, Saint Exupéry, Aguja Rafael, Poincenot, 1993-94. From December 28 to 31, 1993, Adriano Cavallaro and I climbed a new route on the northwest dihedral of El Mocho. This beautiful 400-meter- high route ascended in it...
The Exploration of the Sources of the McLennan RiverRaymond T. ZillmerWHEN exploring the sources of the Canoe River two years ago, Lorin Tiefenthaler and I were intrigued by a spectacular group of peaks to the N. of the river. We saw them as we lo...
EDWARD FEUZ, SR.1859-1944In 1899 the Canadian Pacific Railroad brought out its first Swiss guides, Edward Feuz, Sr.,1 and Christian Häsler, Sr., and stationed them at Glacier House. As Charles E. Fay, soon to become first President of the American...
Operation White TowerBradford WashburnTHE ORIGINAL idea for Operation White Tower was developed by Paul Hollister, of RKO Radio Pictures, which expects to film The White Tower in the Alps next year. This picture will require infinitely more “on lo...
Introducing First Ascents and New Routes In The Greater Ranges” an annual list compiled by the Expeditions Commission oj the Union Internationale des Associations d:Alpinisme (UIAA).Joss LynamIn 1996 the Expeditions Commission of the UIAA decided ...