Mt. Blackhorn, Northwest Couloir. On September 27 I made what I believe was the first ascent of Blackhorn Mountain’s Northwest Couloir. Mike King flew Don Serl, Dan Aylward, and me from Bluff Lake to the base of the couloir on the evening before, ...
RAPPEL FAILURE–ANCHOR CAME APART, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet CanyonOn September 15 about 1930, Julien Roques (20) fell 350 feet from the third pitch of the Open Book in Garnet Canyon. He sustained severe injuri...
Fisher Towers, Cottontail Tower, Trick of the Tail. From September 9 to 12, Jeremy Aslaksen and I climbed a new route on the north face of Cottontail Tower in the Fisher Towers: Trick of the Tail, V 5.10+ A3. Jeremy had spent a weekend scoping the...
San Lorenzo, East Face. On January 15 Erwin Müller, Russell Dodding, Hans-Peter Bakker and I reached the summit of San Lorenzo (3706 meters, 12,159 meters), the first party ever to climb the mountain from the Argentine side. We had made an unsucce...
Pumasillo - 1956DAVID MICHAELThe Cordillera Vilcabamba is situated north-northwest of Cusco, bounded on the north by the Urubamba and Vilcabamba rivers, and on the south by the Rio Apurimac. It extends east- west for 20 miles, the major terminal m...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITIONOregon, Mount Hood, Standard RouteOn May 30 at 8:30 a.m., there were climbers both ascending and descending the mountain along the standard route. A team of four climbe...
Pt. 5520m, Dedo De Galupour and Bubulimotin, Ascents. It was reported that Spaniards David Larrión and Ager Madariaga made perhaps the first ascent of the east ridge of Pt. 5520m in early August. The peak lies on the watershed between the Sumaiyer...
United States: Climbs in the TetonsNorth Face of Cloudveil Dome. Cloudveil Dome (12,026 ft.) lies on the ridge that connects Nez Perce and the S. Teton. Being situated on a ridge, it can be approached very easily from the E. and W. extremes. To th...
Glacier MechanicsRollin T. ChamberlinIT is interesting to note how many of the pioneers of mountaineer- ing in the Alps were men of notable achievement in other lines of endeavor. For centuries mountains and glaciers had been feared and avoided, b...
South Liverpool Land, Kronen northeast pillar (not to summit); Peak 800, south face to southeast ridge, first ascent. Climbing solo my goal was to make first ascents of mixed faces, ridges, and buttresses in the southern part of Liverpool Land, a ...
FALL ON ICE—ICE FOOTHOLD CAME OFF, ICE TOOLS CAME OUT, WEATHER Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hidden FallsOn January 10, Steven Crane (57) was leading Main Falls Center I WI 4 (one pitch, 80 feet) when he fell about 30 feet. He had placed...
Rock Climbing, by Peter Livesey. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1979. 116 pages.After several readings by non-climbers, it was determined that Rock Climbing does indeed answer many of the questions asked by those unfamiliar with the sport. It was inte...
Cuernos del Diablo, north face; Gigante Grande, Via Loco. On May 26 Brent Loken, Bruce Hendricks, Brent’s father, and I drove in Brent’s jeep from La Paz to the Quimsa Cruz. We stopped for the night in the tawdry mining town of Viloco, where we we...
The Sierra Club has instituted a call list similar to that of the Mountaineers, Inc., for use in case of mountain accidents. This insures getting a rescue party into the field with a minimum of delay. All alpine activities of the Sierra Club are a...
Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-671959-671968U.S.A.CAN.U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock 63741519Snow 37737298River 3000Unknown 1200Ascent or DescentAscent 49343466Descent 465333311Unknown 60410Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock36224245Failur...
FALL ON SNOW, LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, AVALANCHE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER Idaho, Mount BorahOn June 13, 1987, David Probst (38), who was a member of the Idaho Mountain Search and Rescue Unit for several years, was descending Mount...
Washington State: (2) Cascades, Mt. Rainer National Park. On 5 August 1951 Jo Ann Ramey, 17, of Seattle, and three teen-age companions climbed Naches Peak, an easy mountain rising about a 1000 feet above the road to Tipsoo Lake. On the descent, ag...
Indrasan, Kulu. Indrasan (20,410 feet) was climbed by a new route, the west ridge, by an expedition led by Tony Johnson on June 9 and again on June 13. Details are lacking.
Cordon Colmillo, Cerro Colmillo (1,896m), northeast ridge. In February and March 2012 a NOLS semester group traveled north 125km from Laguna Tranquilo to Rio Murta. On the way we explored a number of valleys and passes, as well as crossing the gla...
Paine Towers, 1989-1990. Japanese climbers Michihiro Kadoya and Yoshio Nabeta set up Base Camp on the western side of the Paine Towers on November 21, 1989. On the 26th, they set out on the Italian (Bich) route on the Torre Norte. They reached the...