BushidoThe complete north face of Kalanka in India’s Garhwal.Yusuke SatoLying in our wet sleeping bags, we have just finished brunch—20 grams of instant mashed potatoes apiece. Our tent site, squeezed under a rock, is so narrow that the three of u...

OVERDUE CLIMBERS—OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PARTY SEPARATED, INEXPERIENCE, EXHAUSTION, DEHYDRATIONUtah, Wasatch Mountains, Lisa Falls CouloirOn June 26, the Salt Lake County Sheriff's SAR team was notified that two members, from an original ...

ROCKFALL, POOR POSITION, POOR JUDGMENTAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Edith CavellOn August 20, two climbers (F 43, M 54) began ascending the North Face route on Mount Edith Cavell. They began at 1500 on a hot day, when rock fall is at its wo...

It was July 2009 when Christian Beckwith showed me a picture of Mt. Logan. Captioned “The 3,000-meter unclimbed south face,” it immediately captured my imagination. The attractive phrase was part of it, but so was the mysteriousness of the mountai...

Sierra Club, 1947. The 43rd Annual High Trip, with an attendance o£ about 100, travelled for four weeks under the leadership of D. R. Brower (A.A.C.) in the central Sierra Nevada, from Banner, Ritter and the Minarets S. over Silver and Seldon Pass...

Kenya’s RocksWelcome to the remote crags of Kenya, where adventure rules.Alex FiksmanIt’s easy to fall in love with Kenya, a country as diverse in landscapes as in cultures. The contrasts come at every turn, from suited businessmen in chauffer-dri...

Michael’s Sword, Second Ascent and Devil’s Paw Attempt, Juneau Icefield. On June 28, Dave Dahl and I flew by helicopter to the upper reaches of Hades Highway. After a week of inclement weather we repeated the original route on Michael’s Sword (III...

Bhagirathi IV, Attempt. It was reported that a six-member Spanish team failed the unclimbed, west-facing rock wall rising to Pt. 6173m on the ridge connecting Bhagirathi II and III. (High Mountain Sports 174)

Mt. St. Elias, Homberger Route, Ascent. In April, my friend Bean Bowers and I climbed the Southeast Face (Homberger Route) on Mt. St. Elias in a three-day dash, with one day pinned down by storm at 13,500 feet. We were in Alaska for about a week f...

Forever on the Mountain. James M. Tabor. New York: W.W. Norton & Company Ltd., 2007. Black and white photos and two schematics, a thorough Index, and a Recommended Reading section. 400 pages. $26.95.In 1967 three Colorado climbers, led by Howa...

Mts. Monarch, Silverthrone and the KlinakliniGlacierHenry S. Hall, Jr.FOR our 1936 visit to the Coast Range we had in mind as a main objective the ascent of Mt. Monarch (11,712 ft.), both for the climb and as a means of learning more of the little...

King Peak—Yukon Expedition, 1952Peter K. SchoeningTHE primary purpose of organizing a group of climbers to visit the St. Elias Range in the summer of 1952, other than an interest in seeing new and different country, was a desire to search out clim...

Thunder Mountain, The Bums Lost variation, and Dream Sacrifice, repeat to summit. On May 15 Roy Leggett, Steve Su, and I began our first climbing trip to Alaska. Roy and I each received a fellowship grant from the AAC. We set our sights on Thunder...

In the Chugach Range, AlaskaROBERT WESTTHE Switzerland of Alaska” is the phrase the travel posters use to describe the little seaport town of Valdez, Alaska. Situated on the flat gravel delta of the stream draining the Valdez Glacier and surrounde...

Cho Oyu, Various Ascents in the Post-Monsoon Season. The Himalayan season’s greatest success numerically was not on any mountain in Nepal but on Cho Oyu from Tibet, where 16 of the autumn’s 21 Cho Oyu expeditions claimed an unprecedented total of ...

TABLE IIIMiscellaneous Information Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-64U.S.A.1959-64CAN.1965U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock48124540Snow 25826350River 3000Unknown0000Ascent or Descent(River crossing not included)Ascent 35428510Descent 33021370U...

Pk. 3,596' (Brackish Bitch), Varney-Hoyt.Over 21 days in August, Andy Hoyt and I, both of Girdwood, Alaska, put up a new line on Pk. 3,596', a.k.a. the Brackish Bitch, at the head of Deep Water Bay, approximately 40 boat miles from the Whittier ha...

FALL ON SNOW/ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, ALTITUDE SICKNESS, FATIGUE, DARKNESSAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 5, 1984, Bruce Matsutsuyo (30) and Steve Earle (31) flew onto the Ruth Glacier (by the Sheldon Mountain House) where they met the third member of ...

Vinson Massif and Mount Shinn, Sentinel Range. On December 13 at 1:30 A.M., Gerry Roach and I reached the summit of Vinson Massif 4897 meters, 16,067 feet), the highest peak in Antarctica, at nearly 80° S. latitude. The ascent followed the origina...

The End of A DreamAn alpine-style ascent of the southeast ridge of Makaluby Daniel MazurOctober 9th at 3 p.m., Alex Nikifarov and I stand at 8300 meters, just below the summit of Makalu. We shudder and stare up through snow-covered slabs and patch...