Oak Creek Canyon, Christopher’s Tower and Lucifer’s Tooth. On January 13, Dan Stih and I climbed a freestanding tower in Oak Creek Canyon, just north of Sedona, Arizona. The line involved two mostly aid pitches on a steep compact face following co...
AVALANCHES NEAR A CITY—Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Flattop Mountain and Kotoya Peak. During the Christmas-New Year week of 1973-1974, Alaska experienced unseasonable warm weather. In Anchorage on 26 December, a high temperature of 42 degrees F. (5°...
Gasherbrum II Attempt. A five-member French expedition led by veteran 61-year-old Pierre Mazeaud attempted the standard route on Gasherbrum II but failed in high winds. On August 2, François Matter and Laurent Lesueur got to 7900 meters.Xavier Egu...
NICHOLAS VANDERBILT1958-1984Nicholas Vanderbilt and his companion, Francis Gledhill, disappeared in August 1984 while attempting the Wishbone Arête of Mount Robson (12,972 feet), highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. Repeated helicopter searches o...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On September 6, Mr. Gordon Tebb (23), a Mount Rainier professional guide, was struck a glancing blow on the head by a falling rock while belaying climbers descending toGibraltar Ledge. He was knocked unconscio...
Guidebook for Mountains of the Northwest. The A.A.C. looks forward to completion in the near future of the new Climber’s Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains. In about 275 pages, the volume will describe approximately 1000 routes on some 500...
Eine Erinnerung in Bildern an das schöne Stubai, Tirol. 109 photo-illustrations, four in color. Innsbruck: Wagner’sche Univ.-Buchdruckerei, 1956. Price 44 Sch.The Stubai valley, its upper extremity apposed to the heart of the Oetztal, reaches Inns...
Sherpas. James F. Fisher, Foreword by Sir Edmund Hillary. University of California Press. 19 color plates and 104 black-and-white illustrations. Paperback.To the best of my knowledge I have never met James Fisher. Nonetheless, I feel a certain par...
Condoriri Region, Various Ascents. While visiting the Condoriri region in July, 1995, I “enchained” two peaks, climbing them back-to-back to make one long route. From our 15,000-foot Base Camp above Lago Condoriri, I first climbed Cerro Condoriri ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTUtah, Wasatch Mountains, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn June 23, Bryce Perkins fell while leading a climbing route in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Mr. Perkins’ fall of approximately 60 feet, resulted in injuries to his head, ...
Ranrapalca, Artesonraju, Caraz I, Palcaraju, 1980. Yves-Claude Sonnenwyl, Pierre Morand and I first made a new route on Ranrapalca by the north col between it and Ocshapalca. The route to the col was rather complicated. We bivouacked on June 21, 1...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, WEATHER, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn October 11, Chris Sproul (26) and David Sweedler (37) began the Notch Couloir (III, AI 3, 5.5) on the East Face of Longs Peak...
Mendenhall Towers Traverse. In August 1982 Dick Ellesworth and Bruce Lulla traversed all the Mendenhall Towers from west to east in a seven-day period. They started with the Rabbit Ears Spire and continued along the ridge. The seven nights in bivo...
Montana, Cabinet Range, Snowshoe Peak. On July 22, Gerald Challinor (20), and Jack Carabin (19) were descending Mt. Snowshoe after a successful ascent. Descending by a different route than they had ascended they came to a glacier that they had to ...
Bhagirathi III, Southwest Pillar, Attempts. It was reported that three teams attempted the southwest pillar of Bhagirathi III (6454 m): a four-man Spanish expedition led by Juan Padilla, a six-member Canadian team led by Graham Rowbotham, and anot...
Joshua Tree: Sport Climbs. Randy Vogel. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1994. 72 pages. $10.00.Comment: Over 250 so-called “clip-and-go” routes with topos. But isn’t the title an oxymoron? Read the fine print. On page 2, Vogel tells us that...
Cho Oyu, First African-American Ascent of an 8000-meter Peak. An American team led by Eric Simonson of Ashford, WA, summited Cho Oyu in two groups from the Tibet side on May 13 and 14. Summiters included Jean Ellis, the first African-American to a...
Vinson Massif. Our expedition climbed the Vinson Massif on November 19. With this ascent, Canadian Pat Morrow became the second person (after Dick Bass) to reach the highest point of all seven continents. Also reaching the summit were Americans Mi...
Aleta del Tiburon, East Face. From January 15 to 25, in the Valle del Frances, Esteban Chacon (Chile) and Hubert van Ham (Dutch) established Game Over, Man! and Pa’la Casa (“Go Home”) on the east face of Aleta del Tiburon. The following notes are ...
P 11,172 and “Gash Peak.” Despite some rain every day, during four days in August Del Langbauer, David Goeddel, Jack Norris and I made four new routes from camp near Pyramid Lake, south of Mount Bonneville. Three routes (the first, second and thir...