Further note on the French ascent of Taweche. This was an unauthorized ascent of a peak, not on the permitted list, by a French group led by Yannick Seigneur, who had gone to Khumbu to investigate the possibilities of high-altitude skiing from 600...
AAC, Oregon Section. A unique gathering of people interested in the many issues concerning mountaineering in Tibet occurred in Portland this year. American Alpine Club members Tom Bennett, Bob McGown, Jean Fitzgerald, Neale Creamer and Ian Wade, t...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE BELAY—CLIMBING UNROPED Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 9, 1992, at 0900, Andy Griffiths (36) was attempting to climb Lamb's Slide on the East face of Longs Peak. He slipped and slid 300 feet, su...
Bhagirathi III, Southwest Face, New Route and Repeat of Scottish Route. Our expedition reached Base Camp at Nandanban on August 2. We were Pavel Trefil, leader, Leoš Chwistek, Štefan Danko, Zdedek Michalec, Bohuslav Mrozek and I. After acclimatiza...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers’ Seattle climbing program, under the leadership of Ron Eng, has maintained its traditional focus on alpine climbing in the Pacific Northwest. The Basic and Intermediate Climbing courses, which compose the core of...
Everest Attempt. I was the leader of a 19-member expedition from Zagreb. We had hoped to climb the Australian route on Everest’s north side. We established Base Camp at 5200 meters, Advance Base at the junction of the Middle and West Rongbuk Glaci...
Laila. The Hekiryo Alpine Club expedition was led by Yoshinora Isomura and Tomiyasu Ishikawa. They left Skardu on July 4 and went through Yuno and Arandu to Base Camp at 13,450 feet at the junction of the Chogolungma and Haramosh Glaciers on July ...
Mount Hayes, Southwest Face of the South Summit. On April 4 Cliff Moore and I climbed the route done in 1976. (See A.A.J., 1977, p. 161.) We climbed alpine-style, making the ascent and descent in five days. We descended the west ridge, following i...
Cashmere Crags, North Face of the Black Pyramid. On June 3, from our camp under a large boulder below the north face, Jim Stuart and I selected the route which began at the base of a dihedral that soars upward for 200 feet and continued toward the...
FALLING OBJECTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn June 24, 1994, our party began an ascent of the Triple Direct route on El Capitan. That evening, as we bivouacked on Mammoth Terraces, we observed two portaledges set up on the Shield, about ...
Day Needle, East Face. In July Ed Conner and I free-climbed this face staying, as far as we could tell, on Beckey’s original route up the prow except that we started the route by third-classing about 300 feet up the couloir to a point about 30 fee...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Teewinot—On July 27, Thomas Mayer (20) and Warren Wolff (20) were descending the east face of Teewinot. Weather and climbing conditions were good. The party was below the Black Chimney, to the right of the...
FAULTY USE OF EQUIPMENT—California, Yosemite Valley. Shary McVoy (28) stated that she and Jeff Hall (29) arrived in Yosemite on March 20, intending to climb The Nose route, a Grade VI, 5.8 A3 climb on El Capitan. The following is McVoy’s account i...
Ishinca, Yanamarey Group, and Minor Peaks North of Alpamayo. My wife and I came the whole way up the Amazon to Pucallpa and then by road to Huánuco. After a look at the Cordillera Huayhuash, we went on to Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca and to the...
King Fisher, The Hazing. It was reported that Eric Kohl, Bryan Law (joined by Pete Takedaon the final push) climbed The Hazing (5.8 A3) on the west face of the King Fisher. Also, Stevie Haston (U.K.) reportedly freed Phantom Spirit on the Echo Tow...
Anyemaqen 5. Our expedition climbed what we believe was an untrodden summit in the Anyemaqen group, Anyemaqen 5 (6090 meters, 19,981 feet). Six university students placed Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4300, 4800 and 5200 meters on July 23, 28 an...
Mentok I Attempt. A two-member team from Delhi, India, consisting of Paramjit Singh and Alka Sabharwal, attempted this peak (6340 meters), which is the highest peak standing on the long Mentok range, rising parallel to the western shore of the Tso...
No-Escape Buttress Arête, Mount Moran. First ascent on September 11, 1960 by Al Read and Dave Dornan. On August 21, 1960 Pete Lev and Read did the lower half of the route. They began the climb to the right of the arête, which they reached after tw...
Panch Chulhi. Led by Flight Lieutenant A. K. Chowdhury, Indians visited the Panch Chulhi region. They failed to climb Panch Chulhi I (22,650 feet) and Panch Chulhi II, but they did climb Panch Chulhi III (20,710 feet), IV (20,780 feet) and V (21,1...
Pumori. The south ridge of Pumori (23,442 feet) was climbed by a Canadian team consisting of Tim Auger, Lloyd “Kiwi” Gallagher, George Homer, Chris Shank, Steve Sutton and me. The ridge is the continuation of the ridge above Gorak Shep, which incl...