Infinite SouthAn infinite journey on an infinite wall by Ermanno SalvaterraIn the early days of October we confront the south face of Cerro Torre where, the year before, we had ascended nearly 200 meters. On that attempt our friend, Fabio Stedile,...
Southern Appalachian Section. Throughout 2011, the Southern Appalachian Section focused on growing our membership base and producing relevant local club events. The Section's membership exhibited healthy growth across the region. This in turn enab...
Changabang and. Dunagiri Attempts. The members of our expedition were Andrzej Pawlik, Andrzej Mirga, Marek Kozik, Tadeusz Preyzner, Zbigniew Dudrak, Dr. Andrzej Pilc, Wojciech Paszynski and I as leader. We had hoped to attempt the north side of Ch...
Heather L. Paul 1970-2005The most touching part of Heather Paul’s memorial service occurred near the end. A nurse and several physicians she had worked with came to the podium and paid tribute to an aspect of her life that we mountain comrades had...
Mt. St. Elias, ascent and paraglider descent. On June 16 Hamish Robertson (Australia) became the first person to paraglide from the summit of Mt. St. Elias. He flew all 18,000 vertical feet of the mountain and 21 miles horizontally to land on the ...
Mt. Judge Howay, north face and ski descent. At the beginning of March, Scott Murray (U.S.) and I climbed and skied the north face of Mt. Judge Howay. Judge Howay is located in the Coast Mountains in Mount Judge Howay Provincial Park, which is dir...
Kang Guru. A Japanese expedition led by Shuichi Torii climbed Kang Guru (6981 meters, 22,904 feet) by the west ridge, following the post-monsoon 1982 route of the Yugoslavs. They had three camps above Base Camp. The summit was reached on October 1...
FATIGUE–FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWisconsin, Devil's Lake State Park, ChicagoTwo male climbers (ages unknown) were leading Chicago (5.9) at Devil’s Lake State Park. “Josh” climbed the crux of the route but soon afte...
P 6850. There are two Bugaboo-like rock peaks that rise between the lower Kahiltna and Lacuna Glaciers, which had never been attempted. Jim Okonek flew Clay Wadman and me to a glacier landing at 4000 feet. After setting up camp, we immediately set...
Central Tower of Paine, East Face, Golazo. In February, Steve Schneider and Christian Santileces began a new line on the 4,000-foot east face of the Central Tower of Paine. Over four weeks, they fixed nine pitches in between the British route and ...
Schweizerland, Mt. Forel, Pepe e Isabel; Perfeknunatak, Al Tran-tran. 4V X-trem is a project that involves climbing virgin or rarely visited mountains in extreme areas. The first phase took place from May 21-June 10, when a team from Madrid, Curro...
Wheeler Peak by the Northeast FaceRoy M. GorinAstupendous vertical unclimbed rock wall—this was the challenge that brought Don Clarke, Harvey Hickman, Si Ossofski, and me to Wheeler Peak in eastern Nevada. Only two weeks earlier the same challenge...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, RecompenseIn October, on the third pitch of Recompense, my partner, Mark, was ten feet from topping out and went to plug a cam and popped off. He was 15 feet above his last piece, ...
The Himalaya, Aspects of Change. J.S. Lall and A.D. Moddie, editors. Oxford University Press, New Delhi, 1981. 481 pages, color photo graphs, maps.This is not a book of peaks and climbers. It is more a kind of en cyclopedia of the Himalaya, dealin...
Dronning Maud Land, Various Ascents, Previously Unreported. In December, 1999, and January, 2000, our dream of dreams came true when, sponsored by the Elvia Insurance company, we traveled to Queen Maud Land, a beautiful mountain region in Antarcti...
Pedra Pão de Açúcar, Pão de Minas. I still don’t know if I was invited or just imposed myself. All I know is that after a year of working as a big-city paulista (one of 20 million inhabitants of São Paulo), I was stressed and doubting the existenc...
FALL ON SNOW–INTO MOAT, PARTY SEPARATED California, Little Slide CanyonOn Saturday, July 20, 1986, Bruce Raabe reported that his partner, Lester Needham (45), was missing. They had been hiking up Little Slide Canyon on July 19 with the intention o...
Nevado Ulta to summit ridge cornices, northwest bowl. At midnight on July 8 Brits Al Powell and Owen Samuel left a high bivy below the glacier and headed for Ulta’s prominent, unclimbed northwest bowl. Their route ascends the couloir to the right ...
This season fewer people visited Aconcagua and the weather was bad, with many days of snowfall. Unfortunately, there were six casualties (only one climber died last year). There were 197 rescues (46 of them complex), which is a decrease from rec...
STROKE, POSSIBLE HACE, ASCENDING TOO FAST Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 3, 1988, two members of the “New York Alpine Club” Korean Cassin Ridge expedition were hoisted from a camp at 5500 meters into a Chinook Helicopter by the U. S. Army’s 228th A...