P.10,000+' and P.8580', Centennial Range, St. Elias Mountains. On April 25, Paul Claus flew Mimi McDougall and myself into the Centennial Range of the St. Elias mountains, landing at 7,200 feet on an unnamed glacier only two miles from the Canadia...
Mellizo Oeste or Steffan, Patagonia. Jure and Peter Skvarca have just made the first ascent of the Mellizo Oeste (West Twin), a lovely rock and ice climb of the Paine Principal type but on a larger scale. The third member of this expedition of the...
Peaks in Ancohuma Group, Cordillera Real. Our expedition was composed of Jesús Herrero, leader, Francisco Granero, Juan Ramón Portillo, Julio Armesto, Felix Alonso, José Luis Pérez, the Argentine Gabriel Cabrera and me. From Mina Candelaria we mov...
A 23-member expedition, led by Kim Kyu-tae and sponsored by the GyeongBuk Alpine Federation, left Korea on July 22 and arrived at base camp (4,200m), on the west side of the range, on the 27th. At 2:30 p.m. on August 11 seven members reached the...
Penny Icecap. On May 22, Rimas Gylys, Eric Laurin, and I were dropped off at the snout of the Coronation Glacier. Hauling our gear on sleds and snowshoes, we traveled the 25-mile length of the Coronation Glacier and crossed the southern tip of the...
California, San Gabriel Mountains (4), Echo Mountain—Early in the afternoon of December 3, Mr. and Mrs. Bowers (27) another adult and six children (two of their own) ages 5 to 9, set out to climb Echo Mountain (3,207). The ascent was accomplished ...
CEREBRAL EDEMA Washington, Mt. RainierBreck Haining was airlifted from the Emmons Glacier on Mt. Rainier on August 15 after suffering a seizure which may have been caused by cerebral edema, a rare high altitude sickness. He was discharged from Har...
Correction, Caullaraju Group. The Japanese ladies did not climb the highest point of the Caullaraju group, as stated in A.A.J., 1967, 15:2, p. 390, but Nevado Brasil (18,491 feet).
Istoronal, Southwest Ridge. Reinhold Stauber led a nine-member Austrian expedition on the second ascent of Istoronal (7403 meters) via the southwest ridge, reaching the summit on July 19 at 10:15 a.m. The team experienced mixed climbing with the c...
Washington, Cascades, Mt. Baker. On November 2 Hans Jorritsma (30), and Joan Huckell (27) hiked in and established a camp at Camp Kizer on the north side of Mt. Baker. They carried skis and climbing equipment. At 4:30 A.M. on the third, they proce...
Cordillera Huanzo. We spent some ten days crossing the high, arid, desolate, volcanic plateaus which separate the departments of Cuzco, Arequipa and Apurímac. We went from Santo Tomás to Antabamba. Getting to Santo Tomás with its irregular traffic...
Cheap Hooker. The Black Canyon hosts some of the country’s most adventurous rock climbs and is notorious for epics, runout climbing, difficult route finding, and chossy rock. This past year saw Topher Donahue and I up a few new routes. The Hooker ...
Third Needle, Whitney Needles, East Face. In late August, 1966 Mike Heath solo made a new route on the Third Needle, climbing the prominent chimney splitting the upper east face.
Traverse of the Brooks Range from Kaktovik to Kotzebue. On March 25 with 100-pound loads, Chuck Comstock on Nordic racing skis and I left Rokotvik, Barter Island, Alaska and headed west across sea ice. Our bottle of 80-proof whiskey froze the firs...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mt. Otis. On 25 July at about 3 P.M. a party of six climbers in the Rocky Mountain Guide Service Mountaineering School was participating in a rock climbing demonstration and practice on a rock formation on t...
Dhaulagiri. Dhaulagiri was climbed in 1960 for the first time by a Swiss expedition, led by Max Eiselin, by the northeast ridge. Now, 20 years later, Eiselin organized another expedition to the same mountain, open to all experienced mountaineers. ...
Shiprock, East Face, Secret Passage Route. In September Harvey T. Carter and I climbed a new route on the east face of Shiprock beginning at an improbable, thin crack about 200 feet south of Honeycomb Gully. We ascended two steep pitches to the “C...
Mount Torbert and Other Peaks, Tordrillo Mountains. Alaskans Tom Choate, Gary Lawton, Jerry Minick and I climbed in this range, which is visible from Anchorage. Lowell Thomas, Jr., one of the 1964 first-ascent party of Mount Torbert, flew us to th...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Banff National Park, Grotto Canyon, Paintings WallOn July 18, a climber who fell roughly 30 feet off a wall near the pictographs at Grotto Canyon was rescued. J.G. (51) was leading a 5.9 climb ...
Colorado Mountain Club. 1963 marked the first time the Colorado Mountain Club has conducted an outing outside the United States. Forty members went on the club expedition to the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, reported on in Climbs and Expeditions. Sta...