Preliminary Report on the Southern Summer Season of 1993-4. On December 31, Argentines Teo Plaza and José Chaverri were making a new 1100-meter route on the Aguja Stanhardt’s east face (6b, A2, 80°). A hundred meters below the top of the face, Pla...
Alpine Club of Canada. The 1960 ski camp was held at Berg Lake near Mount Robson during the Easter holidays, April 15-28. Ski conditions on the way to Berg Lake were not of the best owing to the late date of the camp. However, everyone had an enjo...
Juneau Icefields. Our group of four spent from July 8 to August 1 on the Juneau Icefields, landing with Ken Loken on an unnamed lake on the British Columbia flank (above Tulsequah Lake) and made the combination hike and cross-country-ski trek out ...
Mount Johnson, The Elevator Shaft. Jack Tackle and Doug Chabot climbed this strenuous route that ascends a couloir on the north face. The difficulties included marginal protection, 90° snow and ice, and A3 rock. An account of their climb appears e...
FALL ON ROCK, ROCKFALLColorado, Poudre CanyonLate in the day on May 23 a female climber (31) was injured when she was struck by a rock and fell about 20 feet in Poudre Canyon, which is northwest of Fort Collins. She suffered a broken ankle, a crus...
Nun. After a Japanese expedition had failed to climb Nun, the mountain was climbed by members of a 21-member Swedish team. Two reached the summit (23,410 feet) on September 16 and four more on September 20.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Peruvian Ascents. Peruvian climbers made two first ascents: Cochamarca (15,910 feet) in the Cordillera Raura south of the Huayhuash giants was climbed on May 15 by Máximo Luna Jiménez and Pascual Papa Castillo of the Club Andino Oyón; Leoncocha (1...
Wyoming, near Green River—On December 12, 1956 Lawrence Erwin McCune (15), Franklin Hofeldt (15), and Arland Pope (15), while returning from hunting decided to climb a steep cliff in the Scott’s Bottom area. McCune persisted in the attempt after t...
Taven Bogd. The mountains near Mongolia’s border with both Siberia and China are little known. Mongolia’s highest mountain, Taven Bogd (4374 meters, 14,350 feet) lies on the country’s western border. It was climbed in 1991 by Netherlanders Ronald ...
Dickey, Barrille and P 7580. A five-man Japanese party led by Koji Naka climbed Barrille by its northwest face on May 5, 1976 and Dickey and P 7580 two miles northwest of Barrille on May 6.
Uzun Brakk Attempt. Jim Donini and I had as objective a two-man alpine-style climb of Uzun Brakk (6422 meters, 21,069 feet). My wife Joanne accompanied us to Base Camp. Technically, the peak is still unclimbed by any route, although the British ca...
10 Alpine Faces Solo in 15 Days. Over a 10-day period in April, Frenchman Jean-Christophe Lafaille linked 10 classic alpine faces, climbing solo and moving between each on ski or foot. A chronology of the faces ascendedfollows. April 4: the Lauper...
Liberty Bell. A new gully route on the southwest side, branching left near the bottom of the principal gully leading to the “south notch”, was done in early summer by Fred Dunham and me. Principally class 4-5, the gully becomes quite steep and chi...
Gelände und Karte, by Eduard Imhof. 255 pages, with 343 photographic illustrations and sketches in the text, followed by 34 plates in color. Erlenbach-Zürich: Eugen Rentsch Verlag, 1950. Price, $5.75.The mapping of Switzerland on the great scale o...
Bonanza Peak, Western Summit, Great North Couloir. On May 31 Mark Fielding and I climbed this 50° 2200-foot-high couloir to the 9400-foot summit. Recent snowfall allowed for good step-kicking, except for a few ice patches, where anchored belays we...
University Peak, North Ridge. University Peak (14,470') is a relatively unknown pyramid-shaped mountain lying within the University Range of the St. Elias mountains; its south, west and east faces rise more than 8,000 feet above the glaciers. If U...
FitzRoy. (The following details have just been received as the Journal goes to press.) We established Base Camp on January 8 and on the 12th climbed Guillaumet, an interesting rock climb with much Class VI climbing and a bivouac. On the 14th Comes...
Calzada Group, Cordillera Real. Our expedition, composed of Carlo Festi, Aldo Franceschini, Ostilio Campese, Padre Angelo Gelmi, Marco Gorini and me, climbed in the Calzada group in August. After ten days of acclimatization, we drove to the villag...
From a base camp below the glacier on the west side of the mountain, Gu Jie, Liu Yang, and Peng Xiaolong made the likely second ascent of Peak 5,672m on the Chinese PLA Map, via the west face direct. The trio made a single-push ascent and de...
Asgard and Other Peaks, Baffin Island. Several expeditions from Europe climbed in Auyuittuq National Park. Swiss Jean Troillet, Christian Jäggi and Ruedi Homberger climbed Asgard via the southeast buttress (Scott-Hennek) route on June 24. Homberge...