FALL OR SLIP ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, The SquidOn Sunday March 2, a female climber (32) and her partners were climbing the Squid (WI5) located above Emerald Lake and considered by many to be the most spe...
Devils TowerWilliam P. HouseMATO TEEPEE—Devils Tower to the white man—must have inspired awe in many thousands, red and white, before impudent mortals snatched away some of its mystery. Rising in one tremendous shaft from a mount in the rolling pl...
Chouinard Equipment, by Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost and Doug Robinson. Santa Barbara, California: Sandollar Press, 1972. 72 pages, $.50 What is a commercial catalog doing in the book review section? Doesn’t it list items and prices just like Sears a...
Epperly-Shinn col, west face, attempt and accident. Tom Nonis and I were dropped off in the cirque to the west of Mt. Epperly on November 23. We planned to climb the west face of the Epperly-Shinn col, with the idea that after having reached the c...
PROTECTION FAILURE –FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite, EI CapitanIn May, Jean-Noel “Jano” Crouzat (48), an experienced French guide, was seriously injured while climbing the Salathe Wall (3 5 pitches, Grade VI) on El Capitan....
Accounts from the various climbs and expeditions of the world are listed geographically from north to south and from west to east within the noted countries. We start with the Contiguous United States and then cover Alaska in order for the climbs ...
Meru South (6660m), east face attempt. On September 17 a six-member Spanish team led by Jordi Corominas established base camp below the south and highest summit of the Meru Group. Advanced base was later established at 4900m and an attempt made on...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Rig Cottonwood CanyonThree accidents resulting in fractures were reported from this area, each caused by anchors coming out. (Source: Thad Moore, Salt Lake County Sheriff s Search and Rescue Patrol)(Editors...
RMNP, Various Ascents. Jack Roberts and an Icelander known as “Helgi” climbed Field’s Chimney (WI4 M6). The route, which has thin, steep mixed climbing, came in after not forming for the past eight years. Will Gadd and Marc Twight linked Scobinger...
Saser Kangri I, northwest ridge attempt and Saser Kangri IV ascent. A nine-member team from the Indian Navy made a spirited attempt to repeat the long and difficult northwest ridge of Saser Kangri I (7,672m) in the East Karakoram. This elegant lin...
Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6,516m), northwest ridge and first traverse. Sisters Christine Byrch and Pat Deavoll made the second ascent of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (Jade Peak), the most easterly high peak in the Afghan Wakhan Corridor, by ascending a new route on t...
The American Mountain Series, edited by Roderick Peattie. New York: The Vanguard Press, 1942-48. Prices, $3.50-$5.00*These books are designed rather to give the reader a general impression of the mountain ranges of the United States than to serve ...
On Climbing, by Charles Evans. New York: A. S. Barnes & Company, 1957. 191 pages; 33 plates; 6 pages of maps; numerous pen-and-ink drawings. Price $5.00."The mountains and the hills are there to be discovered; and whether they are the boys’ cr...
HAPE AND HACEWashington, Mount Rainier, Camp MuirOn June 23 at 1745, rangers at Camp Muir were alerted of a climber (male, 49) who was having difficulty breathing after returning from a summit attempt and resting in the public shelter.Rangers and ...
ELIZABETH KNOWLTON 1895-1989 With the death of Elizabeth Knowlton on January 26, 1989, we have lost one of our most distinguished lady mountaineers. She was born on October 25, 1895 in Springfield, Massachusetts, to Marcus Perrin Knowlton, Chief ...
Enduring Patagonia. Gregory Crouch. New York: Random House. 224 pages, hardcover. $24.95.Wind, cold wind, rain, snow, waiting, and more wind. These elements define the desolate peaks of Patagonia, mountains of modest altitude, but mountains with s...
Khumbu Climbing SchoolThe Sherpa people of Nepal visit the mountains for reasons quite different than the western climber. For the Sherpa of Nepal climbing is by and large a vocation. The level of risk these climbers accept while working is very h...
Mount Kennedy. Bill Younkin, leader, Gary Uhland, Mike Heil and I* were flown to 6200 feet on the Cathedral Glacier on June 9. We immediately began ferrying loads up the glacier, pulling 150 pounds on sleds and carrying 50-pound packs. Following t...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (4), Teewinot—On August 7, Yvon Chouinard (21) and Robert Kamps were attempting the north face of the Crooked Thumb on Teewinot Mountain. Chouinard was leading an overhang using direct aid and one rope. After com...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 13 at 9:30 a.m., Darich Rapitrich (26) was attempting to climb the first pitch of the Quicksilver Route located on the North Face of Middle Citadel, 100 yards west of the North Bu...