Himalayan Assault, by the French Himalayan Expedition, 1936. Translated into English by Nea E. Morin. Introduction by Hon. C. G. Bruce. 8vo. ; xv + 203 pages, with 48 gravure plates and 3 maps. London: Methuen & Co., 1938. Price 15 s.An expedi...
In the spring, Simon Yates and I did what we thought was the first ascent of the massive Southwest Spur of the South Summit of Mt. Vancouver (Good Neighbor Peak, 15,700') on the Alaska-Yukon border. The line is clearly visible in a Bradford Washbu...
Spokane Mountaineers. Earlier success in 1960 prompted our return to the Tetons in 1965 for another summer outing. Fifty-eight people swarmed over standard routes and trails. The highlight of the outing was an ascent of Mount Moran by the C.M.C. r...
Snow Dome, For Fathers to serac base. This route is an obvious line, 600m to climber’s right of Slipstream (approach as for that route). Ski in, park da sticks, grab your picks, strap your balls on, and move like the Devil himself is chasing you, ...
The idea of going to the Hayes Range developed after we did some digging on the Internet and made a trip to the (British) Alpine Clublibrary. Scouring expedition reports, Chris Johnson, Neil Warren, and I were unable to find a report of an ascent ...
Brenta Spire. Second ascent, August 22nd, 1938. S. Austin, G. Dawson, M. Dawson. The first ascent is described elsewhere in this issue (p. 298). I he Crescent-Brenta Col was reached by a cirque wall on the E., and was the most difficult part of th...
Czechoslovakian Exchange. A climbing exchange should show you more than just new climbers and new crags. It is equally important to live a new lifestyle. In a Socialist country there is no shortage of rules to keep you in line every step; as if th...
Artesonraju, Rinrahirca, Taulliraju, Chopicalqui, Huascarán. A 46-member Iowa Mountaineer expedition arrived in Peru on July 16. A group of 15 led by Sven Olof Swartling headed into the Quebrada Santa Cruz, where they climbed the following: Arteso...
Ojos del SaladoH. ADAMS CARTERFor the past two years there has been considerable speculation as to whether the Argentine peak, Aconcagua, was still to be considered the highest mountain in the western hemisphere. Reports persisted that it might ha...
FALLING ROCK, WEATHER, LATE START—CLIMBING TOO SLOWLYWashington, Mount Ranier, Liberty RidgeAround 11:30 a.m. on June 25, Mount Rainier Park Communications received a 911 call from a team of three climbers requesting a rescue from 9,700 feet on Li...
Slovak Lhotse and Everest Ascents and Tragedy. Slovak and New Zealand climbers climbed under the same permission, but it seems that both groups acted quite independently of each other. The New Zealand group’s activities are covered separately in t...
Fox Jaw Cirque, new routes. On July 18 Jessica Lundin and I arrived in Kulusuk, thrilled to be attempting new routes in the Arctic. We spent a week in Tasiilaq stocking up on provisions, scrambling up a few mountain ridges, and watching arch-shape...
FAILURE TO TURN BACK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, WEATHER New Hampshire, Mount LafayetteRussel and Brenda Cox went for a hike to the summit of Mt. Lafayette early Sunday morning, March 21. They had planned to follow...
Kongde-Ri, East Peak. A German Alpine Club five-man expedition from the Allgäu-Kempten section made the first ascent of Kongde-Ri’s eastern (lower) summit (19,991 feet), 21 miles southwest of Mount Everest. The climb was made from the Lumding Khol...
GILBERT V. HARDER 1945-1979On September 19, 1979, after several days of storm, an avalanche swept away Camp IV of the American Annapurna I Expedition and with it, the lives of Gil Harder, Eric Roberts and Maynard Cohick. Gil was a very special per...
Filming the Impossible. Leo Dickinson. Jonathan Cape, London, 1982. 250 pages, color photographs. £12.50.Rarely does one find in a single person both top-level climbing ability and top-level film-making skills. Leo Dickinson is such a person. His ...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. We established Base Camp at Vasundhara Tal on May 24 and followed the traditional East Kamet Glacier route. We set up six high camps. Govind Joshi, Sanjeev Arora and porter Karma climbed Abi Gamin from Camp V on June 8 and I s...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDUtah, Mount OlympusOn January 21, a group of seven climbers from the Korean Alpine Club of Utah started an ascent of Mount Olympus from the Pete’s Rock trailhead. Their plan was to snowshoe to the South summit via the...
Siffleur Wilderness. On July 23 Bill Putnam and I returned to an area near where we had climbed in 1972. We were joined by Frank Morrey, Art MacKenzie, Lisa Wardlow, Gordon Smith, Peter Vlasveld, Lindsay Fawcett and Sepp Renner. Our trek started o...
Canada: Rocky Mountains. Lake O'Hara District. On 17 July 1951 a party of six left the Alpine Club of Canada's camp at Lake O'Hara to climb Mt. Odaray. After about six hours, the gully just below the summit was reached. The first rope, led by Dave...