Aconcagua, South Face Solo, Yugoslav Route. In the 1984-5 season, Swiss Ueli Bühler first climbed the classic French route with the Messner finish before returning to ascend solo the 1982 Yugoslav route. He took only three days to complete this ve...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCE California, Mount GilbertOn October 14, 1984, Richard Harris (24) was climbing the 300 meter north couloir of Mount Gilbert (3990 meters) with Jim Jacobs. Jacobs, the more experienced, was instructing Ha...
Bogda West. A number of Japanese expeditions visited Bodga in 1981. All twelve members of a group led by Ryohei Uchida made the first ascent of Bogda West (5213 meters, 17,103 feet) by its north ridge. They established Base Camp, Camps I and II at...
Mont Forel, East Greenland, 1990. A Norwegian expedition was led by Allan Sande and the other members were Otto A. Bårholm, Erik Brendehaug, Steiner Bekkevolt, Anders Naess, Johan H. Lundo and Thorstein Lunde. They made the first Norwegian ascent ...
Wyoming G.T.N.P., near Amphitheatre Lake. On 13 July David Vetterlein (18), and Charles Sinclair (30), were glissading down a couloir leading to Amphitheatre Lake from the west. The snow was soft to a depth of about one foot. Vetterlein lost contr...
West Face of the Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. In the latter part of July Jim McCarthy and I arrived at the Devil’s Tower, Wyoming, hoping to put up a new route on one of the previously unclimbed faces. The tower is granite, with vertical fractures (res...
Traverse of Molar Tooth, North Peak, Cutthroat Peak and Whistler. This is a grand traverse showcasing the best routes on these four consecutive peaks from north to south. The granite is coarse, often steep, with vertical jointing providing ample h...
Mount Adams, West Face of North Ridge. This previously unscaled 4000-foot wall was ascended on September 11 by Forrest Johnson, Robert Ostro and Robert Startzell and me. After ascending steep ice slopes and crumbling lava ridges above the lower Ad...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAYAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Grassi LakesOn July 25, two climbers were ascending a bolted route on the White Imperialist wall at Grassi Lakes. The lead climber fell from above the fourth bolt. The belay was using an A...
Gasherbrum II Ascent and Tragedy. There were a number of ascents of Gasherbrum II. An American group climbed the standard route. On June 28, Malachi Miller, leader, Phil Powers and Michael Collins were among those who reached the summit. That same...
Ak-su Valley, Central Pyramid, north face; Kotin, lower east face. In summer 2007 British climbers Sion Brocklehurst and Andy Scott climbed a probable new route on the north face of Central Pyramid (3,850m), taking eight days to climb 20 pitches u...
Bhrikuti, First (?) and Second (?) Ascents. There had been some question as to whether Bhrikuti (6364 meters, 20,879 feet) in northern Mustang had been successfully climbed before a joint British-Nepalese expedition, led by Elaine Brook and Lhakpa...
Zermatt and the Valais, by Sir Arnold Lunn. 202 pages of text, 9 black & white photographs and index. London: Hollis & Carter, 1955. Price, 12s 6d.Imagine yourself, a newcomer to the Alps, taking the little red train from Visp to Zermatt. ...
Renegar Glacier Region, Royal Society Range, 1992. A geological research team from the University of Itago spent six weeks in the Renegar Glacier region 100 kilometers south of Scott Base. The peaks are subsidiary mountains at the southern end of ...
Mazamas. One of the year’s biggest projects was the rebuilding of Mazama Lodge on the south slopes of Mount Hood. The new lodge was dedicated June 25; the event was followed the next day with an ascent of Mount Hood by some 175 people. The new lod...
Rock Prints: A Collection of Rock Climbing Photographs. Greg Epperson. Rock Prints Publishing: Bishop, CA. 1998. 81 black-and-white photographs. 96 pages. $35.00.Greg Epperson, best known for his striking color shots of climbers in action, has pro...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY – LOWERING ERRORNew Hampshire, Rumney, Armed and DangerousOn Today (April 19) on the route Armed and Dangerous, a seasoned climber was lowered off the end of his rope by another seasoned climber. Both climbers had jo...
Teewinot. Jack Turner. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 2000. 248 pages. $24.95.
Batura Mustagh Map. Another of the excellent maps by Jerzy Wala is available, a map of the Batura group in the western Karakoram. It may be purchased for $3.00 from Jan Babicz, ul. Bajana 5B/1, 80-463 Gdansk, Poland.
Cerro Helbling, Northern Patagonian Continental Icecap. An Argentine expedition explored a region east of the Northern Patagonian Continental Icecap around Lago León. The party first investigated the lakes by a pneumatic motor boat. On January 30 ...