MARTY HOEY1951-1982On May 15 Marty Hoey died in a fall at 26,200 feet on the north face of Mount Everest. A day or two later, she would have stood a very good chance of becoming the first woman from this country to reach the summit of the world’s ...
Batian, Mount Kenya. A Spanish team, José Manuel Anglada, Juan Cerda, Emilio Civis, Pokorski, Gines Roca and Rivas made a new route on Batian (17,058 feet) of Mount Kenya. The route led up the Gray Wall, Firmin Tower and through Shipton’s Notch. T...
FALL ON ICE California, Carson PeakOn December 28, 1989, a daring nighttime rescue of an injured mountain climber came off without a hitch as the June Lake Mountain Rescue Team lowered a Davis man some 600 meters off Carson Peak to waiting paramed...
FALL ON ROCKColorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Stoned OvenOn Monday, October 20, Irishman Michael Walsh (30) and his two partners were attempting the Stoned Oven Route (5.11d), a 13 pitch, Grade Vrock climb located on the North ...
Angels Four, by David Nott. Englewood Cliffs, N. J. : Prentice Hall. 176 pages, 8 color plates, 5 drawings, 2 maps, $6.95Gran Sabana! This wild, weirdly beautiful high jungle land of southeast Venezuela has long been the locale of adventure storie...
Western Hajar, various first ascents.In December 2004 and January 2005, Geoff Hornby (U.K.) and I climbed on the mountain limestone of the Western Hajar. We based ourselves around Wadi Al Ain west of A1 Hamra, three hours drive from the capital, M...
JEAN ESCARRA1885-1955Jean Escarra was born in April 1885 and died in August 1955. He was an eminent French jurist, specializing in various branches of the law and allied subjects, and held many professorships. These were mainly, of course, at Pari...
Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Athabasca. On 12 August Burl Mostul and Dan Hale (39) were climbing on the N.W. Ridge of Mt. Athabasca. Mr. Hale lost his footing and slid down approximately 1,000 feet in an avalanche shute. The two had been roped u...
FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE—FOOD SUPPLY FELL FROM LEDGECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Washington’s ColumnOn May 16, 1991, Ranger Kelly McCloskey interviewed Tom Broxon’s climbing partner, Patrick Sturzenacker. She took detailed notes, from which I transcr...
Life and Death on Mt. Everest: Sherpas and Himalayan Mountaineering. Sherry B. Ortner. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1999. 396 pages. $26.95.Life and Death on Mt. Everest by Sherry Ortner is a fascinating exploration of the complex an...
ARTHUR PHILEMON COLEMAN 1852–1939Many years ago the American Alpine Club honored itself by electing to honorary membership Professor Coleman. Not only did the Club bring into its fold an explorer and ardent lover of mountains, but a preeminent sci...
Cho Oyu’s Three-Kilometer-High FaceAndrzej Zawada, Polski Zwiazek AlpinizmuTHE CLIMBING action began on January 4 when Berbeka and Pawlikowski established Camp I on the Lungsampa Glacier, still a fair distance from the face. The fascinating view o...
MAX MAURICE STRUMIA 1896–1972Max Strumia was born in Turin, Italy, September 23, 1896, and died at Bryn Mawr, Pa., on January 13, 1972. He served in the Medical Corps of the Italian Army 1915–21, becoming First Lieutenant. In 1920 he completed the...
CHRIS CHANDLER1948-1985All the clichés applied to Chris—he was physically strong, psychologically tough, and dedicated to the solitude of high montains. But the clichés do not begin to define the extraordinary human being who died on Kangchenjunga...
Kedar Dome, east face attempt. Cameron Lawson, Mark Synnott, and I arrived in the Gangotri during September, finding that a lingering monsoon was greatly shortening any post-monsoon weather window. The objective was the huge rock wall forming the ...
Koksil Sar I (6,176m, Polish Map; 6,152m GPS), west flank and northwest ridge; Koksil Sar II (5,909m GPS), west ridge; Koksil Sar III (5,888m GPS), southeast flank. The Karakoram Highway is probably the longest construction site in the world. Our ...
Yosemite, the Big Trees and the High Sierra: A Selective Bibliography, by Francis P. Farquhar. 104 pages, illustrations. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1948. Price, $7.50.The shortest definition of bibliography is that it is the descrip...
LILLIAN GEST 1898-1986Lillian Gest, last surviving member of a prominent Philadelphia family, died in January, 1986, at age eighty-eight. Many years before, on her graduation from Vassar, she had set out to get a job, but had been stopped by her f...
Aconcagua: South Face, by René Ferlet and Guy Poulet. Translated from the French by E. Nowell Bowman. London: Constable, 1956. ix, 209 pages; ills.; maps. Price 25 s.The climbs of Fitzroy, Huantsan, Chacraraju, Taulliraju, and Aconcagua establish ...
On December 2, the yacht Pelagic sailed out of Punta Arenas due south down the Straits of Magellan toward the western end of the Cordillera Darwin. The skipper and owner was James (Skip) Novak of Chicago. The crew consisted of Britons Hamish, Alex...