FALLING ROCK, OFF ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Washington, Unicorn PeakOn July 5, 1988, Andre Genereux fell 150 meters to his death after pulling a rock off the face of Unicorn Peak. The following details came from an interview with his partner, Edw...
Menlove: The Life of John Menlove Edwards. Jim Perrin. Victor Gollancz Ltd., London, 1985. (Distributed in the United States by David & Charles, Inc., North Pomfret, Vermont.) 344 pages, photographs. $34.95.Jim Perrin has found a difficult, in...
Ndoto Mountains, Poi, Story About Dancing Dogs. In 2002 the Slovenian team of Luka Fonda, Stanko Gruden, Matja Jeran, Goran Koren, and Rok Sisernik drilled a sport route from top to bottom and climbed it at 5.13b. For more information about the ro...
Cuerno Norte del Paine, 1992. On December 30 and 31,1992, Mike (Twid) Turner and I climbed an excellent new 21-pitch route on the northwest face of Cuerno Norte del Paine above the Valle del Francés. After failing to make new routes and climbing t...
Blackburn, Northwest Ridge, P 10,600 and P 10,685, Wrangell Mountains. The Hokkai College Alpine Club’s expedition from Sapporo had twenty-two men and two women as members. While one group attempted the northeast ridge, supported by others, a seco...
Mount Hunter, The Mystic Jewel. At midnight on June 19, Calvin Herbert, Mike Colocino and I climbed the initial 2,000 feet of Rattle and Hum to a protected bivouac and the beginning of our route on Mount Hunter's North Face. The climbing had been ...
Jogin III. A ladies’ expedition, organized by the Bharat Outward Bound Pioneers of Poona, set up Base Camp on the true right bank of the Kedar Ganga at 14,000 feet on May 29. Camps I, II and III were placed at 15,200, 16,100 and 17,000 feet. On Ju...
New York, Shawungunks (2)—In November, 1956 Ted Church and Kris Raubenheimer were climbing “Gaston.” On first pitch Ted’s hand slipped off an extremely small ledge. His fall was held by Kris through piton about 6 feet below his point of fall. Ted ...
Jarjinjabo Mountains, Kham Region, various first ascents. In October Peter Athans, Robert Mackinlay, Hilaree Nelson, Jared Ogden, Kasha Rigby, and Mark Synnott made various first ascents on the Zhopu Spires and the first ascent of the northern Jar...
North post Spire, North Face. When studying aerial photographs, we noted that the north face of Northpost Spire, almost closer to the Bobbie Burns group than to the remainder of the Bugaboos, presented a long unclimbed wall above the terminus of t...
Nangpai Gosum I new route; Dazampa Tse, first ascent. In the middle of October Slovenian expedition made first ascent of Nangapi Gosum 1 (7,351m) or Pasang Lhamu Peak from the southeast (Nepal side) and also made first ascent of Dazampa Tse (6,295...
K7 Attempt. K7 (6934 meters, 22,750 feet) lies at the head of the Charakusa Glacier in the Hushe valley. Japanese climbed it in 1984, but it has resisted nine other attempts. After delays, Britons Bob Brewer, Greg Cotterill, Denis Gleeson, Mark Be...
Colchuck Peak, Northeast Ridge and North Face. On July 15, Ray Lilleby and I approached the peak from Colchuck Lake, ascending toward the Dragontail-Colchuck col to a point just below the Colchuck Glacier. Talus slopes lead to a narrow, snow-fille...
The Dolomites, by C. Douglas Milner, xiv+105 pages of text, 150 photographs by the author (including colored frontispiece), six map-diagrams and end-paper map. London: Robert Hale, 1951. Price, 25/10.This is one of the loveliest illustrated books ...
Qujoc (Punta de Lanzadera) and Waqaywilki (Verónica or Padre Eterno), Cordillera Urubamba. On August 12 Ray Sharpies and I and the American Tom Hendrickson made the first ascent of Qujoc (16,404 feet; formerly known as Punta de Lanzadera) via the ...
New regulations. Beginning January 1, 2011, new Chinese regulations make it financially much harder for small parties to attempt virgin peaks in Sichuan. Climbers will face up to five or six times the cost compared with 2010, with the rise in roya...
I Come From The Stone Age, by Heinrich Harrer. Translated from German by Edward Fitzgerald. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1965. 256 pages, 38 pictures, 18 in color, 5 maps—sketch. Price: $6.95. Harrer is an illustration in the best tradition o...
Mount Logan, Catenary Ridge. Frank Sarnquist, Al Bergland, Steve Ericson and I had chosen to repeat the popular east ridge of Mount Logan. Though the north side of Logan was clear after eight days of waiting, we were still unable to land at the fo...
Sue Peak. The second highest peak in the seldom visited Bailey Range was first climbed on July 7 by Roy Etten, Jack Christiansen, Dennis Pruitt, and Dan Baker. The party tentatively named the 6950-foot mountain “Sue Peak” in honor of Christiansen’...
Alfred Wegener Peninsula. Our expedition was made up of Emil Galehr, Heinz Grasbon, Berhard Grimm, Gerhard and Waltraut Huber, Helmut Koch and me as leader. We were carried by fishing boat from Umanak to Base Camp at Tuperssuatsiait on the western...