The Nose, El Capitan, First One-Day All-Free Ascent. In September, Lynn Hill one-upped her first free ascent of the Nose on El Capitan done a year ago in four days, climbing the entire route in a 23-hour push (VI, 5.13b). An article on this achiev...
CB 14 (6078m), attempts. During August two expeditions attempted this peak on the South Dakka Glacier. Keiichi Isobe’s three-member Japanese team made an attempt on the 28th but failed and subsequently ran out of time. Ermanno Pizzogolio led a 15-...
Abi Gamin. A 20-man team from the Indian Army Ordnance Corps Centre in Secunderabad was led by Major Harjeet S. Bajwa. They gained the summit of Abi Gamin (7355 meters, 24,130 feet) on August 30. The attempt on Kamet was abandoned because of bad w...
Overview of foreign expeditions. Around 35 expeditions from various countries visited the Indian Himalaya during 2003. This was perhaps the smallest number of visiting teams in the last few years. Many expeditions cancelled after the threat of the...
Bandaka. From August 20 to 28 Ulrich Eberhardt and Gunther Henneman climbed the north ridge of Koh-e-Bandaka North (22,064 feet). On August 26 they completed the second ascent of this peak by this very difficult new route. From August 20 to 26 Nor...
IAN WATTS 1960-1988Ian Watts died on January 17 while attempting the Zurbriggen Ridge on Mount Cook in New Zealand. He was last seen at the foot of the ridge near dawn. It is believed that he and his two companions were struck by an avalanche duri...
St. Elias Mountains, Various Ascents. On April 9, our pilot, Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters, landed us in the remote mountain wilderness of the Canadian St. Elias Range to fend for ourselves for a few weeks. Bill Hartlieb, Ron Gregg, Carl S...
California, Mt. Diablo—Devil’s Pulpit—On 14 July, Larry D. Robinson (19) with little experience and apparently climbing alone fell while ascending the Devil’s Pulpit. His fall was either due to a slip or a handhold coming loose. He suffered possib...
Kronprins Frederik Bjerge, Various Ascents. The Tangent British East Greenland Expedition 1996 visited the Kronprins Frederik Bjerge, using a base camp at N.67°11'56” W.35°06’30”. From there and several other camps a total of 55 first ascents were...
Ice Climbing in Colorado, Correction. On page 194 in A.A.J., 1981 Parachute Creek Canyon unfortunately was called Paradise Creek Canyon.
Utah, Provo Canyon, Bridal Veil Falls—On November 22, Allan H. Warren (23) and Larry G. Anderson (19), were cliff climbing on the west side of Bridal Veil Falls. They were near the top of the falls when they attempted to climb around an icy cliff....
Pasang Lhamu Chuli, south ridge attempt. The three-man Italian team of Alois Brugger, Hans Kammerlander, and Karl Unterkircher attempted the south ridge of 7,350m Pasang Lhamu Chuli (formerly Jasamba). [They were seemingly unaware at the time that...
Ascents in the CB Group. Seven Japanese led by Kazuo Oku climbed CB-13 (6264 meters, 20,550 feet) via the north ridge. On August 7 Akira Yokoyama, Miss Kaori Tuji, Makoto Simoto, Takasi Kawanabe and porter Ravi Prakash Negi reached the summit. Oth...
CLIMBING ALONE, UNKNOWN CAUSEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Columbia IcefieldsOn July 21, 1979, Chris Caraley (age unknown) of New York left word with people he met in the Icefields Campground that he planned to solo the north bowl of Mt. Andromeda, tr...
SLIP ON ROCK, UNROPED, NO HARD HATOntario, Milton, Buffalo CragOn Sunday, March 28 F.M. (26) was scouting out the cliff top at Buffalo Crag, apparently hoping to set up a top rope on a climb called “Rainy Day Women.” He had on a harness but was no...
Pasang Lhamu Chuli, first ascent of southwest face and south pillar. After attempts in 2005 and 2006, Hans Kammerlander finally climbed the southwest face and south pillar of Pasang Lhamu Chuli (7,351m), a peak immediately southwest of Cho Oyu. It...
First Ascents in the Canadian Rockies. The first ascent of Mt. Sparrowhawk was accomplished on 24 May 1947, via Kananaskis Valley, by R. Hind, L. Parker, and Mr. and Mrs. H. H. Rans.It is reported that the first ascent of Brussels Peak was made in...
Ganesh III Attempt. By the summer of 1981, Ganesh III (7132 meters, 23,400 feet) was still unclimbed despite two Japanese attempts in 1980 and another in the spring of 1981. An expedition of ten Japanese and two Nepalese, led by Hiroyasu Shirakabe...
Mount Cooper, Southern Lakes Group, Selkirks. Two unsuccessful attempts were made during 1958 on unclimbed Mount Cooper (10,000 feet), the highest peak in the Southern Lakes Group of the Selkirks. The first attempt was made in late June by A.A.C. ...
K2, Ascent and Tragedy. Italian climber Lorenzo Mazzoleni, 30, died on July 29 in a fall from the Shoulder (8000 m) after having successfully climbed K2 via the Abruzzi. According to sources, Lorenzo, along with three others, reached the summit at...