Trisul, West Face. A seven-man Japanese expedition climbed the Yugoslavian route on Trisul’s west face. The leader was Kozo Sakano. Base Camp was established at 15,550 feet on September 4 and Camp I at 16,900 feet on the 7th. Camp II was placed at...
Makalu, West Buttress Attempt and Tragedy. New Zealanders Peter Hillary and Bill Denz and Australians Mark Moorhead and Fred From attempted to climb the west buttress of Makalu. They pitched three camps above Base Camp. The death of two of the fou...
From June 13-15, Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Colin Haley climbed Mt. Foraker by starting on False Dawn, then making the first ascent of a 3,000' mixed wall on the southeast face, and finishing via the French Ridge. Their climb, Dracula (AI4+ M6R AO), ...
Ama Dablam, North Ridge Attempt. Steven Davis, Charles “Mick” Holt, Jeffery Alzner and I attempted the north ridge of Ama Dablam. After some delay in getting our baggage because of the continuing monsoon, we established Base Camp on September 25 a...
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSWashington, Chair PeakOn June 30, 1984, The Mountain School, a well-known climbing academy that has been operated by Ray Smutek out of Renton for the last 14 years, had just finished five intensive days of traini...
LIST OF PEAKS1 KNOWN TO EXCEED 9000 FEET IN ALTITUDECoast RangeLatitudeLongitudeElevationfeet“Kate’s Needle”57° 03'132° 02'9,954“Devil’s Thumb”57 00132 229,127St. Elias RangeLatitudeLongitudeElevationfeetMount St. Elias60° 18'140° 55'18,024Mount V...
Gunnbjørns Fjeld. A Mountain Travel expedition made another ascent of Gunnbjøms Fjeld. On June 26, Americans Jim Williams, Jerry Corr, Robert Hoffman and I and Dane Gunnar Jensen climbed to the summit. An original objective of measuring neighborin...
FALLING ROCK-BLOCK PULLED OFFNew Mexico, Sandia Mountain Wilderness, Hail PeakAfter breakfast and coffee, Sinjin Eberle and I set out to have a nice day for a multi-pitch 5.8 climb of Hail Peak on May 9, Mother’s Day. The weather was warm and stab...
Wyoming: (1) Teton Range. At noon on 19 July 1950, a party of four was returning from the Teton Glacier by the normal route. This requires crossing a steep slope on the north side of Disappointment Peak This was largely covered by hard packed snow...
The weekend of June 4-5, the G.A.M (Grupo de Alta Montaña) de los Perros Alpinos went to the sector Queltehues – Las Melosas, near Santiago but very seldom visited by climbers, mostly due to private companies prohibiting access. On the map w...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT,CLIMBING ALONE Arizona, Wilson CanyonOn February 25, 1988, Damien Glassy (30s) had ascended the standard Wilson Mountain Trail (south) to the summit of Wilson Mountain by himself. He had on minim...
Trango Attempts. Two Japanese expeditions both failed to climb the easternmost of the Trango Towers (5753 meters, 18,875 feet) by its southwest buttress. The first party, led by Yoshimitsu Takatori, in June got to about 1000 feet from the summit. ...
Climbing in the Icefield Ranges of Kluane National Park Reserve. The 1993 season was characterized by relatively mild weather during June and July. Many expeditions reported unusually warm temperatures, higher than normal firn lines and unstable s...
Shark’s Nose, North Face. The north face of Shark’s Nose, immediately above the notch adjacent to Overhanging Tower, offers a direct ascent of about 600 feet. Though it has been used for descent, the face had never been scaled prior to this summer...
Brakk Zang, Ganyips. From June 28 to July 5, Pep Masip and I put up a new route on the southeast face of a virgin mountain named Brakk Zang (4800m) in one of the secondary Hushe valleys of the Pakistan Karakoram. We called the route Ganyips (VI 6a...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. After the successes on Gasherbrum I and II in 1985 and Broad Peak and K2 in 1986, the Quota 8000 climbers turned in the summer of 1987 to the 1962 German route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. We were Italians leader ...
Chulu East, South Buttress, 1988. On November 25, 1988, Sara Ballantyne, Nuru Wangchu and I stood on the summit of Chulu East. We believe we had made the first ascent of the triangular-shaped south buttress, 2000 feet of 60° ice. Approach camps we...
Palcaraju Oeste. Our expedition was composed of Josep Piera, leader, Albert Altet, Lluís Ambròs, Eduard Ballbè, Esteva Cardellach and me. With the veteran porter Eustaquio Henostroza, we set up Base Camp in the Quebrada Ishinca at 14,400 feet on J...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1983, with membership remaining about 700. Nearly 300 members participated in one of the courses, the mountain camps, or the foreign expeditions, which were from one to four weeks long. ...
Suj Tilla West, second ascent. The Ralam valley lies between the more famous Milam valley to its west and the little-known Lassar Yankti to its east. It harbors the breathtakingly beautiful village of Ralam and a system of three glaciers, namely; ...