Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Oregon Section

A.A.C., Oregon Section. Beacon Rock has been a constant access issue during 1995. For part of the year the entire rock was closed due to nesting peregrine falcons. The East Face is still closed and under constant political pressure by Gary Rail, t...


Notes AAJ
United States, Wyoming: Southern Wind River Range

Wyoming: Southern Wind River Range. Late in June 1948 Ralph Widrig, Fred Beckey, Graham Matthews and Harry King hiked from Big Sandy Opening to a base camp at Shadow Lake. Heavy snow, freshly fallen, stalled climbing; but on the 27th Widrig and Ki...


Notes AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Information Center about the Hindu Kush

Information Center about the Hindu Kush. The German tourist club, Die Naturfreunde, has set up an information center to help expeditions hoping to climb in the central Afghan Hindu Kush. Those planning to climb in this region will do well to write...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori Southwest-Ridge Attempt

Pumori Southwest-Ridge Attempt. One member became seriously ill from high altitude and never reached Base Camp. The other four, New Zealanders John Roberts, leader, and Kevin Conaglen, Australian Stephen Macdonald and American Keith Swenson all re...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Torre

Cerro Torre. The furor goes on unabated over the 1971 ascent of Cerro Torre by Cesare Maestri, in which the Italian climbers placed an enormous number of bolts with the help of a pneumatic drill. It will be remembered that in 1959 Maestri claimed ...


Notes AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pre-Monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya

Pre-Monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya. Seven climbers died this spring in the Nepalese Himalaya, all during descents from 8000-meter summits. Two had no previous success on any 8000-meter mountain and used artificial oxygen during the final hours of t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Syria, Lebanon, Mt. Hermon

Mt. Hermon. Mrs. V. Z. Lotowycz writes of climbing Mt. Hermon (9232 ft.), a mountain of both archaeological and historical interest, on the borders of Syria and Lebanon. She reports: “The summit consists of three peaks which rise from a small plat...


In Memoriam AAJ
Stephen Wayne Jensen, 1952-1982

STEPHEN WAYNE JENSEN1952-1982Although he considered himself an amateur climber, mountaineering was playing an increasingly large role in Stephen Jensen’s life. His hobby had taken him to McKinley in Alaska, to Athabasca, Eisenhower, Assiniboine an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Istor-o-Nal

Istor-o-Nal. On June 5 Zvone Kofler and Janko Ažman of the Third Yugoslav Hindu Kush Expedition made the second ascent of Istor-o-Nal (24,271 feet) by a new, direct route on the south side. The route ascended the southwest buttress and ridge. (Fir...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Vinson Massif, East Ridge, 1989

Vinson Massif, East Ridge, 1989. Chileans Arturo Fernandois, Fernando Luchsinger, Jaime Roca, Italo Valle and I as leader were flown from Punta Arenas by the Chilean Air Force to its base on Isla Rey Jorge and only 21 days later, because of bad we...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nameless Tower, Trango Towers, Baltoro Karakoram

Nameless Tower, Trango Towers, Baltoro Karakoram. Our members were Andrew Atkinson, Stuart Holmes, Alan Scott, Ian Lonsdale and me as leader. We wanted to climb a new route on the Nameless Tower alpine-style. We arrived at Base Camp on the Trango ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Oregon, North Sister

LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADEOregon, North SisterThe following accident on May 13, 1989, was reported as follows:All my information is secondhand. As a result of head injuries, I have no memory of the climb. I belayed my partner onto the glac...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Mount Fortitude, Selkirks

Mount Fortitude, Selkirks. The first ascent of Mount Fortitude, a 9100-foot summit at the western border of Glacier Park, British Columbia, was made by Dr. and Mrs. Robert West August 21, 1956. This climb up the east ridge of Mount Fortitude was c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Stiletto, Sierra I and Eaglehead, Coast Range

Stiletto, Sierra I and Eaglehead, Coast Range. Technical new routes were done on each of these peaks, flanking the Tellot Glacier. A two-day climb was completed on the east buttress of Stiletto by Steve Must and John Chilton. These two also climbe...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Minnesota, Taylor's Falls

FALL ON ROCKMinnesota, Taylor’s FallsOn Saturday, April 6, while waiting for a friend at a local area called Taylors Falls, I did some easy soloing and some bouldering. I chose a crack route that was overhanging and has an excellent landing. After...


Club Activities AAJ
AAC, North Central Section

AAC, North Central Section. The North Central Section covers Minnesota, Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota and North Dakota. In July, 1999, Scott Christensen took over the post of chairman, which had been vacant in 1997-’98. A first goal was to make a w...


Accident Reports ANAM
Climber Pulled Rock Off, Rock Fall

CUMBER PULLED ROCK OFF, ROCK FALLColorado, Eldorado Canyon, Wind TowerOn June 17 rescuers were called to Eldorado Canyon State Park for a rock- slide with a person trapped. Selma Hafizbegovic (39) was going to climb the Wind Tower rock formation v...


Book Reviews AAJ
Unbekannte Schweizer Landschaften aus dem xvii

Unbekannte Schweizer Landschaften aus dem xvii. Jahrhundert, by S. Stelling-Michaud. 4to., pp. 103, with 40 plates. Zürich: Niehans Verlag, 1937. Sw. Fr. 16.50.The great Dutch masters, like Rembrandt, seldom traveled south of the Alps—there were e...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Angelino Wall, Drop Zone

Angelino Wall, Drop Zone. From November 27-December 1, 1996, Chris McNamara and I climbed Drop Zone (11 pitches, 5.8 A4-) on the Angelino Wall, the chocolate-colored pillar on the first large formation behind the Visitors’ Center. The Angelino Wal...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Himal, Manaslu, P2, First Ascent

P2, first ascent. As noted above, one of the aims of the Ukrainian expedition to Manaslu was to make the first ascent of P2 (6251m a.k.a. Simnag Himal East), a minor summit along the east ridge of Ngadi Chuli (7871m a.k.a. Peak 29) immediately sou...