Mount Washington, Southeast Spur. On an extremely hot July day Harvey Schmidt and I forged a new variant of twelve 180-foot leads on this classic alpine spur. Beginning at the moat at the right edge of the prominent buttress, we climbed 2½ pitches...
SAFETY PROGRAMSPacific Northwest. The Mazamas have a rescue group organized to assist in emergencies in all mountainous areas. The Mountaineers, Inc. (Seattle, Everett and Tacoma) give annual training programs in elementary and intermediate climbi...
RAPPEL FAILURE, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Leavenworth Practice CliffsPeggy Stark (49) died Sunday [May 24] of head injuries she suffered Saturday in a rock- climbing accident in Chelan County just southwest of Leavenworth, the King Coun...
P 6447, Near K6. The first ascent of P 6447 (21,152 feet) was made by six members of an eight-man Japanese party led by Akiya Ishimura on August 17. They climbed the north ridge with camps at 15,750, 17,000 and 19,000 feet. The peak is five miles ...
Lhotse, First American Female Ascent. It was reported that on May 26, Christine Feld Boskoff became the first American woman—and second woman ever—to climb Lhotse. She had climbed to Camp IV (7805m) by her husband, Keith Boskoff. After waiting out...
Tombstone Shadow, Big Baldy Dome, Sequoia National Forest. In May, Roy Swafford, Barry Fowlie and I climbed a four-pitch route which starts in a huge left-facing corner on Big Baldy’s south face. Steep but easy climbing up the comer leads to a pit...
Colonel Foster, East Face. The main attraction of this wall is that it is quite likely the largest on Vancouver Island—about 3300 feet high. It was climbed in September by Fred Douglas, Paul Starr and me by a buttress leading to the highest peak o...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEMontana, Glacier National ParkOn October 12, 1983, Ken Lynch (28) and Steve Fernekes (27) were picking their way down from the top of Swiftcurrent Peak Glacier on the north face. They were attempting...
Mount Ghent, Karakoram. An Austrian expedition under the leadership of Erich Waschak reached Base Camp on the Kondus Glacier at 13,750 feet in early May. Camp I (14,750 feet) was on the left lateral moraine of the glacier. On May 10 they establish...
La Schal. Our expedition was made up of Pierre Cier, Dr. Marc Koch, his wife Elisabeth, my wife Francine and me. Our objective was La Schal, near the Hagshu La, a pass which links the Chenab and Doda Rivers. The mountain lies just north of the Bar...
Mt. Hungabee. Guidebook, page 73. Route 3 is given incorrectly. The total height of the rope-off is 130 ft. Thence down S. W. (not S. E.) flank by gullies to a big snow patch, whence Prospectors (not Paradise) Valley is reached a little above Eagl...
Arctowski Peninsula, Port Lockroy/Wiencke Island, Paradise Bay and Cuverville Island, Ascents and Descents. Doug Stoup, Stephen Koch, Hans Saari, Kris Erickson, Rick Armstrong, Jared Stackman and Rick Hunt were on the Antarctic Peninsula for an ex...
Sierra Nevada, California: (1) Twin Peaks (8924 ft.), above Lake Tahoe. On 14 August 1947 a young man from Massachusetts, Emmett Pettit, 23 years old, previously acquainted with a few climbs in the Canadian Rockies, was killed by a fall from a roc...
Navajolands. Although climbing in the Navajo Indian Reservation is still discouraged, it is hoped that selective areas not sacred or near a native dwelling may soon be designated acceptable to ascents with an ecologically sound approach. In 1987 K...
California, Owens Peak. On 19 March, Richard Johnson (18) was starting to climb the Southeast ridge of Owens Peak. Richard was leading a 5.8- 5.9 layback perhaps 55 feet high. His belayer was sitting on the soft sand at the base of the cliff. Rich...
Hut Tower, Tower Couloir to Werewolf-Hut Col. James Mehigan and I aren’t keen on beach vacations, so we traveled to Alaska in April, just in time for the end of a two-month high-pressure spell. On the day we arrived the wind swung to the south, wh...
Linksar Attempt. A Japanese expedition from Rissho University, led by Kihuo Goto, reached 19,850 feet on the east face of 23,100-foot Linksar. Base Camp was established at 11,500 feet on the Kondus Glacier on June 7. Four camps were placed on the ...
Gasherbrum II Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Jean Pierre Becquemin, Thierry Cazenave, Thierry Gallouët, Marc Souchal and me. We left Skardu on June 9 and reached Base Camp on June 19. After carrying two loads to Camp I at 20,000 feet,...
P 12,483 and P 12,456, Southern Fremont Peak Area, Wind River Range. On a short trip into the Wind River Range in August, Charles McLaughlin and I climbed two apparently untouched summits. The first was P 12,483, a hogback detached from and south ...
North Twin (N. Summit, ca. 11,800 ft.). We christened this impressive hump “Twins Tower,” though it is not to be confused with a more independent rock-tower in the long and spectacular N. ridge of North Twin. Its first ascent was made on July 29th...