Tirich Mir. Of the 32 members of our group, 18 including two women reached the summit of Tirich Mir (25,290 feet by the Czech route). On July 13 we established Base Camp at 15,100 feet on the Upper Tirich Glacier. Camp I and II at 16,750 and 19,70...

Peak ca 5,900m. Goetz Wiegland led a six-member German team to attempt Norbu Kang (6,005m), a peak added to the permitted list in 2002 and first climbed a year later by Tamotsu Ohnishi’s Japanese expedition, by the north face from a col west of th...

Appalachian Mountain Club. During 1959 members of this club were active in almost all mountain ranges of the world. Club trips were made to Africa, the Canadian Rockies, and many more regions closer to home.Various of the club sections have instit...

Mount Redoubt, South Ridge, Winter Ascent. Kevin Duffy and I did a winter ascent of the south ridge of Mount Redoubt (10,197 feet). The climb took nine days, seven of them for the approach. We flew to Crescent Lake, about ten miles from the mounta...

The West Buttress of El Capitan. In the balmy spring of 1964 Chuck Pratt and I, in 3½ days, made the second ascent of the West Buttress of El Capitan (for first ascent, see A.A.J., 1964, 14:1, pp. 79-80.) This was the first continuous ascent of th...

INADEQUATE BELAY—ROPE PASSED THROUGH BELAY DEVICE, OVERCONFIDENCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Pat and Jack PinnacleIn the afternoon of September 29, 1994, Grant Farquhar (27) and Clare Carolan (25), both from Scotland, were climbing at the Pat and...

Manual of Ski Mountaineering, edited by David R. Brower and others. Compiled under the auspices of The National Ski Association of America. 135 pages and one plate. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1942.If ski touring, especially in the H...

Squaretop from the West, Wind River Range. In the second week of August Joe Giovannone and I climbed Squaretop up the north side of the southwest couloir. The route started just a little south of a point due west of the summit. To start, we climbe...

Moose’s Tooth, West Summit. On May 26 Roger Maier, Paul Kauf and I climbed to the west summit of the Moose’s Tooth by the west ridge in deteriorating weather, which prevented our attempt on the main summit. Snow conditions were extremely unstable ...

Cho Oyu from the North in the Post-Monsoon. Although all the climbers of Cho Oyu, with the exception of Krzysztof Wielicki’s expedition (see above), used the standard route on Cho Oyu on its western side, there were seven expeditions that approach...

Mount Vancouver, Border Peak. The Osaka-Fu Mountaineering Association expedition was ied by Nobuo Kuwahara and made up of Yasuhiro Sawada, Tokuji Kawada, Yoshikazu Nishikawa, Suichi Ueda, Toshiaki Miyamoto, Yoshio Mizuta, Masaru Shibata, Masaichi ...

Parshui Valley. The Bavarian Naturfreunde (Nature Friends) expedition of Hans Altheimer, leader, Eugen Bardroff, Ekkehard Otto, Ludwig Rehm and Herbert Ziegenhardt was refused permission to climb in the Wakhan. Therefore they completed the explora...

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. In 1951, both in the spring and in the fall, the Club held its six-week course in rock climbing. This course, now traditional, is accepted by the college in fulfillment of the physical education requirement. A new is...

Alpamayo. Our expedition consisted of André Renet, Gael Schmidt, Joseph Vaillant, Serge Camefort, Anne Marie Roch, Pierre Mayaud and me as leader. On August 20 Vaillant and I got to the summit of Alpamayo by the north ridge from camp at 18,000 fee...

Koh-i-Bandakor. The Nagoya University party had as its first objective the climbing of Shakhaur, but when refused permission, they turned their eyes to the second ascent of Koh-i-Bandakor (21,851 feet), which had first been climbed by the Germans ...

Kangchunne or Kagmara, Kanjiroba Himal. Koji Mizutani was the climbing leader of a five-man-and-a-woman expedition of the Osaka Alpine Club to Kangchunne (also called Kagmara; 21,140 feet). Base Camp was set up on March 28 at 13,850 feet below Lha...

Mount Heyburn, Winter Ascent. On April 4 Louis Stur and I made the first winter ascent of this major Sawtooth peak, using skis to the north saddle and then climbing the west chimney. Although it was cold, the climbing was quite tolerable because t...

Santa Cruz, Southwest Face and West Ridge. Jean-Marc Lang, Bruno Douillet and I climbed the southwest face and upper west ridge of Santa Cruz. (This route coincided with Wells’ only in the very upper part.— Editor.) On August 4 we started up the l...

Nevado San Miguel and Other Peaks. In April 1979, an expedition of the Club Amigos de la Montaña, Salta, climbed San Miguel (c. 5400 meters, 17,717 feet), located south of Nevado del Acay. As expected, archeological remains were located on the sum...

Mercedano, South Face. In the second half or January Héctor A. de la Vega, Cesarino Fava and Fausto Barozzi, Argentines, set out to make the first ascent of the south face of Mercedario (21,884 feet). From a high camp at the foot of the face at 15...