STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED Arizona, Capitol ButteOn January 7, 1988, Richard Mullen (30s), visiting from Oregon where he lived, decided to climb, alone, the standard South Face Ducked Route of Capitol Butte. The climb is steep and over 1...

Tuttle Creek, Keyhole Wall. On May 18, Jack Roberts and I climbed a classic six-pitch new route on this spectacular wall; we called it the “Locksmith Route”. The route climbs the smooth central and highest portion of the face, and can be identifie...

Mustagh Tower Correction. The British party that climbed the Mustagh Tower, as reported on page 318 of A.A.J., 1985, made the second ascent of the lower west summit. The second ascent of the higher east summit was made by Guido Magnone’s party in ...

Andes: A new German expedition, financed by the Deutscher und Österreichischer Alpenverein and led by Philipp Borchers, the leader of the mountaineering group of the 1928 Russo-German Alai Expedition, has left for the exploration of the Cordillera...

Mount Hooker, “The Third Eye.” In August, Steve Quinlan and I climbed a completely new route on Mount Hooker (VI, 5.10, A4). The 1800-foot climb is to the left of the Dockery route. Due to bad weather, it took Steve and me three tries spread over ...

Shark’s Nose, Southwest Face. The longest face on Shark’s Nose, one of the most striking summits in the southern portion of the Wind River Range, is the west and southwest, which presents a very impressive wall from the cirque of Shadow Lake. Whil...

Charakusa Valley, Various Ascents. An Italian expedition comprising Maurizio Giordani, Luca “Rampikino” Maspes, Mattia Locatelli and Natale Villa were active in the Charakusa Valley in July, making a number of ascents, including the ascent mention...

Tlipobdan. On June 24, most of our group started the drive to Pakistan. They were Bernhard Juptner, Stefan Oberhauser, Christian Schimanek, Beatrix Meyer, Christine Fegerl, Robert Klapps and Andreas Ranet. En route, they climbed Ararat in Turkey a...

Himalchuli Attempt. A nine-man Korean expedition attempted to climb Himalchuli by the southwest ridge but got only to 6250 meters, which was reached on September 9. The leader Chung Chai-Hong died of illness and his place was taken by Han Seung-Kw...

Climbs above Quebrada lshinca. The following summits were reached by members of the Iowa Mountaineers: Tocllaraju (19,790 feet) from Ishinca by Donnie Black, Norman Benton, Tim Schuld, Bruce Schneider, Cleveland Bell, Rick Droker on July 15; Sven ...

Explorers Club of Pittsburgh. Our club does not have sections devoted to special activities such as mountaineering, rock climbing, or caving. The typical member is a generalist who participates in several Earth Sports depending on Pittsburgh’s fli...

Suj Tilla West (earlier known as Suitilla), first and second ascents. Two of the finest ascents of the season were on Suj Tilla West (6,373m). These were made by two separate teams in different styles. The peak rises steeply near Ralam village in ...

Nanda Kot Attempt. We were Ajoy Mondal, Nishi Kanta Sen, Rakhal Ghosh, Naresh Rai, Amitabha Bhattacharya, Gopal Chakraborty, Dr. Amit Bhowmick and I as leader. After arriving at Munsiary on September 8, we had difficulty recruiting porters because...

Devistan I. The Nainital Mountaineering Club sent a nine-member team led by Anup Sah to prepare for a scientific cum exploratory expedition to the Nanda Devi Sanctuary next summer. On October 3 Nayan Kumar Katira and two high-altitude porters Tej ...

Prince William Sound. This was a new locality for all in the party except the writer who had visited the glaciers of the northern inlets in 1931.2 All these were revisited in 1935 and the work was extended to the glaciers on the western side of th...

M. BECKETT HOWORTH 1900–1986 By the death of M. Beckett Howorth the American Alpine Club has lost one of its most distinguished members. Although Dr. Howorth spent most of his life in the New York area, he was born in West Point, Mississippi and ...

The Innominate, Northwest Face and Ridge, Bighorn Mountains. In July 1933 a remarkable climb was done in the Bighorn Mountains by A.W. and Walter B. Willcox, which “turned out to be the climax of our expedition, a magnificent peak.”* The Willcox p...

FALLING ROCK, ROCK DISLODGED BY PARTNERS Montana, Beartooth MountainsOn September 2, 1992, Kimberly Paulson (22) was with seven other members of a Minneapolis, MN, YMCA group when she was struck by a falling rock that had been dislodged by the per...

FALLS ON ROCK (7), PROTECTION PULLED OUT (2), INADEQUATE PROTECTION, RAPPEL ERRORS (2), BELAY ERRORNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksSeven reports were submitted for 2011 (including the narrative above).There was only one long fall. This male ...

Cholpanlik Mustagh, Kun Lun. Our expedition was composed of Koshi Sasaki, Eiichi Sato, Ichiro Yamagata, Hitoshi Goto, Hirofumi Oe, Toshiaki Yoshioka, Masami Hosaka, Takashi Ota and me as leader. We started from Kashgar with two jeeps and a truck o...