Mt. Everest, solo attempt. In the spring of 1952 a Dane, Klaus Bekker Larsen, with four Sherpas, traveled from Darjeeling to Namche Bazar and climbed to the Lobujya Khola between Nuptse and the Lho La. After they were forced back from there, they ...
San Juan, Copap Group, Chinchey. After leaving the Vilcabamba (see also that section), we reached Huaraz on July 11. Geoff Spear- point had taken Radcliffe’s place, joining David Bamford, John Gates, Tom Clarkson and me. Because conditions had bee...
INADEQUATE PROTECTION – NUT PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Looking Glass Rock, Second ComingOn July 28, at 9:00 p.m. two climbers called 911 from the base of Second Coming, a well-known 5.7 two pitch traditional climb located...
Everest, The Hornbein Couloir Direct from Tibet. Swiss Erhard Loretan, Nicole Niquille, Jean Troillet, as well as my wife Annie and I from France, arrived on July 17 by jeep and truck from the Nepalese-Tibetan border. Troillet wanted to solo the c...
MARK DENNIS WEIGELT 1949-1972Mark Weigelt died on October 15, 1972, in a massive rockfall in the exit gully of the Ice Cliff Glacier on Mount Stuart in the Washington Cascades. He was very exuberant that day because the glacier was well broken, in...
1951-711972Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta30143820627British Columbia6619947511Yukon Territory9822000Ontario111000Quebec111000West Arctic000112Practi...
Shisha Pangma and Cho Oyu. Both peaks were climbed by the standard routes, by which the first ascents had been made. Shisha Pangma was climbed in classic style from Base Camp at 5100 meters but without high-altitude porters. Camps were at 5700, 63...
INVOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Vermont, Smuggler’s Notch. At 2:30 p.m. on 4 January 1974, Tom McCrumm (28), Allen Gaines (34), and Harvey Goldstein (26) hiked into Smuggler’s Notch to find an ice gulley to climb. Only a short distance from where we left my ...
FALL ON SNOW, ASCENDING TOO FAST, HAPE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PLACED NO PROTECTION, DESCENDING UNROPED Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 14 Charles Cearley (40) and the Edwards brothers flew into Kahiltna base camp. Their climbing itinerary was first t...
The Naked Mountain, by Elizabeth Knowlton. vii + 355 pages, 34 illustrations, diagrams and index. New York and London. G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1933. Price $5.00.This book, devoted to the assault on Nanga Parbat (26,620 ft.) by the German-American exp...
The Hall of the Mountain King, by Howard H. Snyder. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1973. 207 pages, 35 photographs. Price: $8.95.Mount McKinley was first climbed in 1913. From that time until 1967, four people died while climbing the mountain....
“Someday you will be perfect,” said the charming shopkeeper in Lhasa, through a teasing smile. She gently touched my badly sunburned nose with her finger and consoled me. Someday I will be perfect…maybe. I giggled the whole day.Ten years earlier. ...
Hunter’s North Buttress DirectMugs StumpABSORBFD in my thoughts, I listlessly watched the craggy peaks go by as Doug Geeting instinctively maneuvered the plane through the passes to the Kahiltna Glacier. I don’t even remember whether the other two...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, 1986 was a big year for the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club’s Mountaineering Section. At the beginning of the year we set out to accomplish a few things: increase membership, establish new trip leader and safety guid...
Absolute Zero on Longs PeakMark WilfordIN MARCH OF 1980, inspired by who knows what Bonatti, Messner or Kor epic, I set out for the 2000-foot east face of Longs Peak alone. The mountain wasn’t impressed with my dreams of grandeur. After 600 feet o...
Mt. Edgar, tragedy. In late May Colorado residents Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson lost their lives in an avalanche below the southeast face of Mt. Edgar (E Gongga, 6,618m). The face was a much talked about objective, which has received w...
Gepang Goh, Southeast Flanks. It was reported that an Indian Army team climbed a new route on Gepang Goh in July, 1997, via its southeast flanks. They gave the peak an altitude of 6088 meters; in the past, it has been given 5870 meters. (High Moun...
Sarapo, West Face. An Italian expedition led by Rodolfo Sinuello was composed of 13 climbers, a doctor and nine trekkers. The expedition climbed the west face of Sarapo, apparently to the right of the one pioneered by French in 1980. (See above.) ...
Wind River Peak, Tempest Tower, Second Ascent. It appears that Matt Flicek and I unknowingly managed to do a second “first ascent” of the Wind River’s Tempest Tower route in August. We set out on the ten-mile approach to the Deep Creek Lakes cirqu...
Tranquility Dome, Sierra National Forest. In August Mark Blanchard, Fremont Bainbridge and I climbed a six-pitch route on the central face of Tranquility Dome between Visions (A.A.J., 1977) and Blind Ambition (A.A.J., 1979). We named the route “Su...