On New Rock-Climbing Equipment and Its UseYvon Chouinard and Thomas M. FrostDURING the last ten years a revolution has taken place in the field of technical rock climbing. Many of the advances in this revolution are associated with the high rise i...
Everest, Southwest Face in Winter. The southwest face of Everest, very seldom successfully scaled in any season, saw its first ascent in wintertime by a small but highly experienced team of seven Japanese aided by 28 strong Sherpas in the unusuall...
Annapurna BattlegroundEric SimonsonUNDER THE LEADERSHIP of Bob Wilson, our group of friends and friends of friends was convinced we could climb Annapurna in a semi-alpine “McKinley” style, carrying our own loads, without oxygen or Sherpa support. ...
The Mazamas. Problems with governmental agencies proliferated in 1998. The Oregon State Marine Board continued its vendetta to classify, regulate and tax the Mazamas as a commercial guide. The U.S. Forest Service took the same stance toward the Ma...
FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons FlatsOn the morning of July 1, Ranger Sam Wick (27) climber Kevin Laney, and I left Camp Schurman around 06:00 for a summit climb. Conditions were excellent with good weather, light winds, and fi...
Light TravelerOn a long Alaskan single-push ascent, it can feel like forever has come and gone already. Fighting off sleep and dehydration on new and newly freed routes up Denali, the Mini-Moonflower, and Mt. Hunter.Stephen KochFive. That is the n...
North Cascades National Park—A Moutaineering ParkJoan Firey, MountaineersTHE North Cascades National Park encompasses some outstanding mountaineering with a variety of mixed ice and rock climbing. Its complex geology of highly metamorphosed gneiss...
Latok III, third ascent. No doubt influenced by the inclusion of the route in the seminal book, Himalayan Alpine Style, Alvaro Novellon and Oscar Perez of Spain made the third ascent of the southwest ridge of 6,949m Latok III, also the third ascen...
AAC, New England Section. We had 82 members and guests in attendance at the Section’s 5th Annual Black Tie Dinner—almost a record. Joe Terravecchia gave a professional show of routes on Mounts Hunter and Foraker in Alaska. Peter Grote exhibited 14...
FRANCES ANDREWS MULLEN1902-1991Frances Mullen died on April 14 in Sherman Oaks, California of Alzheimer’s disease. She had been a member of the A AC since 1967 and was also an active member of the Chicago Mountaineering Club and the Sierra Club.Sh...
Gangotri, Bhagirathi III-IV col, west face. A team of six young French alpinists, under the guidance of Frederic Gentet and Christophe Moulin, hoped to repeat classic rock routes on Bhagirathi III. Snowfall of one and a half meters at base camp pr...
Oregon, Mt. Hood—On May 16, Harry McAllister (50), his son Keith (15), and Bob Bissett (31) completed an ascent of Mt. Hood by the usual south side route. The snow in the “chute” had been softened by a bright sun by the time the party was descendi...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite Valley, Sunnyside BenchOn October 8, Joe Presuto (51) was seriously injured in a fall on the jam crack, 5.9, on Sunnyside Bench.He protected right off the ground, placed four pieces in the first 40 fe...
Kham region: Jarjinjabo, Jantno Spire summit block, first ascent. In August Bernie Laforest, Ben Ditto, Jonathan Knight, Steve Cater, and I journeyed to the Jarjinjabo Massif in the Sichuan Province of China. With help from the American climber Jo...
This is the thirty-third issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the fourth that has been edited and published jointly by the American Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: Over forty mountaineering accidents are known ...
New Routes, Cho Oyu and Shisha PangmaWojciech Kurtyka, Klub Wysokogórski, Kraków, PolandTHE VIRGIN SOUTHWEST FACE of Cho Oyu and the central couloir of the south face of Shisha Pangma were the objectives of Swiss Jean Troillet, Erhard Loretan and ...
Merra, first known ascent. The name Anidesh Himal refers to the mountain range separating the Ramtang Glacier to the north and the Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Glacier to the south. The ca 10km-long massif is characterized by a striking, narrow ridge runni...
Bandaka. The Tohoku Gakuin University expedition, led by Genichi Hashimoto, was successful when on July 28 Kazuyoshi Matsukura and Takeshi Sato reached the summit of Bandaka (22,450 feet), having approached from the Anjuman Pass. Other members wer...
Icefield Ranges Research Project, St. Elias Mountains. The Icefield Ranges Research Project completed its second field season in August 1962. Whereas the 1961 field program was devoted to reconnaissance and the commencement of scientific study of ...
The Crack of Destiny. In March Joe Faint and I climbed a continuation of the Crack of Doom route which ends at the summit of Elephant Rock, instead of in the middle. Although three different routes go to the midpoint of the rock, a blank-appearing...