FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount FreshfieldOn September 14, 1981, a party of four left Niverville Meadows to climb Mount Freshfield.They gained the summit via the south ridge and be...
Torres del Diablo and The Bader Valley, Various Ascents. On January 18, John Merriam, Dylan Taylor, Darrel Gschwendtner and I teamed up with Mark Slovak and Robert Bodrogi to visit the Torres del Diablo (a.k.a. Grupo La Paz). Five hours south of P...
La Esfinge, Dion’s Dihedral. On June 23, after two weeks of effort, Larry Dolecki and I climbed to the 5325-meter summit of La Esfinge, completing the first ascent of a big wall aid route on the mountain’s east face. La Esfinge is a beautiful alpi...
Kangchungtse (Makalu II). All members of an eight-man expedition climbed Kangchungtse’s east ridge from the north col. Base Camp was established on September 8 and Camp IV at 24,475 feet on October 8. On October 9 a Swiss and an American reached t...
Cathedral Pass. As a better route, superseding the Dennis and Duchesnay route from Field to Lake O’Hara, Cathedral Pass (8800 ft.) crosses between Mt. Stephen and the Cathedral massif. It is reached on the railroad side by a 3-mile walk or ride to...
Nanga Parbat. The German expedition of this last year, composed of W. Merkl, leader; Peter Aschenbrenner; F. Bechtold ; A. Drexel ; P. Müllritter; W. Welzenbach; U. Wieland; W. Bernard, doctor ; H. Hieronimus ; and E. Schneider as climbers made a ...
Puncak Trikora, 1987. On August 16, 1987, Günter and Werner Hönlinger and I made the first ascent of Puncak Trikora (4765 meters, 15,633 feet) by its west ridge.Wolfgang Axt, Österreichischer Alpenverein
FALL ON ROCK, DARKNESSNew York, ShawangunksOn October 20,1985, a man (35) had finished climbing late in the evening. He unroped and was going to relieve himself when he took a fatal fall to the ground from the top of Skytop Cliff. (Source: Tom Sch...
Khatang Attempt. Australians, John Lamb and Ray Vran, reached a high point of 6100 meters on Khatang (6782 meters, 22,250 feet) in the Rolwaling Himal on December 27. They were hoping to climb a new route, the northwest face. They abandoned the cl...
Mount Rainier, Willis Wall. In early May, Dusan Jagersky and I climbed about half way up the central rib on Mount Rainier’s Willis Wall when a large avalanche came within 100 yards of us and swept the entire right side of the wall. This, combined ...
There appears to be a renaissance of interest in the Himalaya. Last summer a German expedition from Munich attempted Kan- chenjunga and was only prevented from reaching the top by the onset of bad weather, when they had overcome the greatest diffi...
Satopanth. The Klub Wysokogórski Rzeszów organized an expedition to the Gangotri region led by Jerzy Wala. They climbed Satopanth by the normal north ridge. Above Advance Base at 5100 meters, they established Camps I and II at 5800 and 6300 meters...
Wyoming, Wind Rivers—Koven—On 20 July, Bob and Gail Bates, Fred Truslow and John Oberlin (43) were about 125 feet below the summit of Koven during the ascent, where they were forced to stop on a comfortable ledge when the blue sky was suddenly obs...
Pioniere der Alpen, by Carl Egger. 371 pages, with 24 portrait drawings. Zürich: Verlag Amstutz, Herdeg & Co., 1946.Here are presented 30 biographies of notable Swiss guides from Melchior Anderegg to Franz Lochmatter, forming an outline of mou...
Frank Smythe: The Six Alpine/Himalayan Climbing Books (Climbs and Ski Runs; The Kangchenjunga Adventure; Kamet Conquered; Camp Six; The Valley of Flowers; Mountaineering Holiday). Frank Smythe. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books; London: Bâton Wicks,...
Yankee Rock and Ice. Laura and Guy Waterman. Stackpole Books, Harrisburg,PA, 1992. 354 pages, 125 black-and-white illustrations. $24.95 (paper).You needn’t be a Yankee to relish this companion to the Waterman’s rich, Forest and Crag. You don’t eve...
SLIP ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOATWashington, Monte Cristo PeakThe climb began at 5:20 a.m. on August 22 from the Glacier Basin trailhead above the Monte Cristo resort area. I led the party at a moderate pace to the basin. All party members except for G...
AVALANCHENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, King RavineKing Ravine is a large glacial cirque located in the Northern Presidential Range. It features several prominent avalanche paths and starting zones. There are no avalanche forecasts issued for th...
One Hundred Years of Crossings of Greenland’s Inland Ice*Gunnar Jensen, Arctic Expeditions Adviser, DenmarkMORE THAN ONE HUNDRED YEARS ago, in the autumn of 1888, the ice-covered interior highlands of Greenland were explored by the Norwegian polar...
Unsupported crossing of the Western Kun Lun and attempt on Pt. 6,903m. In September a Russian team jointly led by Boris Malakhov and me, with Michael Bertov, Paul Demeshchik, and Sergey Zajko, made a northeast-to-southwest crossing of the Western ...