Annapurna II. A five-man team from Australia, led by Timothy Macartney- Snape climbed Annapurna II by its south face and south spur. They set up Base Camp and Advance Base at 8525 and 12,150 feet on August 19 and 20. Camp I at 16,000 feet, Camp II...
P 12,200, Wrangell-Saint Elias Mountains. On April 23, my wife Siri, Paul and Donna Claus and I made the first ascent of P 12,200, a border peak due west of Mount Logan. Landing at 8400 feet on an unnamed glacier west of our summit, we established...
Gaurishankar Winter Ascent, 1986. Four South Koreans led by Seo Jeong- Bae were on the ridge in the southwest face, previously climbed by Wyman Culbreth and Ang Kami Sherpa in the spring of 1984. On January 16, 1986 Choi Han-Jo and Ang Kami (for h...
World’s Seven Summits by First European Female. Having recently climbed Aconcagua, Frenchwoman Dr. Christine Janin became the second woman, after Japanese Junko Tabei, to ascend successfully the highest points of all seven continents. Her first wa...
Chandra Parvat, Attempt. In 1938, the first Austrian Himalaya Expedition made many ascents in the western Garhwal Himalaya, including the first ascent of Chandra Parvat (6728m), which was climbed via the west ridge by Leo Spannraft and Dr. W. Frau...
Annapurna Dakshin Women s Attempt. Our Yugoslav women’s expedition attempted the nearly five-kilometer-long southwest ridge of Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South), which was first climbed in the autumn of 1978 by Japanese after their unsuccessful ...
Kyzylbash Peak, Northeast face, New Route. On August 19-22, a team from Norilsk composed of Anatoly Paveliev (leader), together with Pavelieva Nelia, Sergey Kartsev, Nikolay Koltakov, Rimma Popova, and Natalia Raficova, established a new route on ...
Patagonian Climbing, 1989-1990 Summer. At the end of the season (February 23, 1990), I have little to report. At the end of January, 1990, Italians Paolo Grippa and Eliana de Zordo were avalanche victims and swept into a crevasse below the Torre E...
Kettle Dome, West Face. Fred Beckey, Phil Warrender and I made the first ascent of this route on October 20, 1974; the first technical climb to be established on this small but attractive dome. A long poorly protected crack led us into the center ...
Torre Norte, El Husar de la Muerte. On January 30-31, 2009 Nicolas Gutierrez and I (both Chilean) opened a direct new line on the west side of the North Tower of Paine, north summit. It’s probably the first Chilean route on the three towers of Pai...
Himalayan Expeditions : There are at present several expeditions under weigh, one of which contains several American members. Herr Willi Merkl of Munich left at the end of April with a large party to attempt Nanga Parbat (26,629 feet), the trip ha...
Kangchenjunga. The Slovene expedition, which made a remarkable new route on the southwest ridge of Kangchenjunga South, ascended others of Kangchenjunga’s summits, made a new route on Talung and attempted the difficult east face of Kumbhakama East...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—CARABINER GATE CAME OPEN Colorado, Eldorado SpringsOn April 3, 1988, a male climber (27) fell while attempting a difficult move and tried to grab a sling on the last protection piece while falling. Last protecti...
Appalachia. Index to Volumes 11-25, 1905-45, Magazine Numbers 41-100, compiled by Benton L. Hatch. 95 pages. Boston: Appalachian Mountain Club, 1952.
Puscanturpa Norte Attempt and Ascent of Puscanturpa Sur, Southwest Ridge. Ambrogio Casartelli, Ambrogio Veronelli, Carlo Biancadini and I attempted the southwest face of Puscanturpa Norte (18,546 feet) from July 26 to August 1. From Base Camp at 1...
Northern and Central Andes Corrections. Several errors were printed in AAJ, 1993 on pages 177 to 179. Ansilta 2 was climbed on March 28, 1991, not on the 25th. Ansilta 1 is also called Mazuelo. One of the climbers of Tridente was Alejandra Quenan ...
Cerro O’Higgins, Patagonia. A party sent by the Federación de Andinismo de Chile to the area forty miles north of FitzRoy made the first ascent of the Cerro O’Higgins (9547 feet) on January 16. The climbers, W. Espinoza, E. García, C. Marangunic a...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATIdaho, City of RocksOn June 25, Tim Herron (early 30s) fell about five meters from Dire Straights. He was held by his rope, but he struck his head. He was lowered to a rock formation below, unconscious and having convulsio...
Denali Rehabilitation Project, 1976. Our special objective was to remove garbage from the 17,200-foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. We also interviewed many climbers and compiled attitudes and opinions about the numbers of climbers,...
ANALYSIS OF ACCIDENTSA breakdown of the accidents that occurred during 1954 and the cumulative totals are presented as in the past years. No marked change is noted. The descent still seems to be more hazardous than the ascent. The proper use of ra...