FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HAT North Carolina, Whitesides Mountain, New DiversionsLabor Day was the date that my climbing partner, Todd (29), and I (41) had set to finally climb Whitesides Mountain. About a month’s worth of plannin...
Pakistan Trekking Guide. Isobel and Ben Shaw. The Guidebook Co., HongKong, 1993. £11.96.Readers familiar with Isobel Shaw’s excellent general guidebooks on Pakistan, the most recent being Pakistan Handbook (Moon Publications, Chico, CA, 1990), hav...
Early Travelers in the Alps, by G. R. De Beer. Pp. xi+204, including bibliography and index. Illustrated with 40 plates and 36 text figures from old woodcuts and engravings. London : Sidgwick and Jackson, Ltd., 1931. Price 10/6.The reader who enjo...
Aconcagua, South Face. On February 10 our group left Laguna Horcones for Base Camp. After reconnaissance and acclimatization on the 11th and 12th we decided on the 1966 route of Aykes and Pellegrini. On the 13th we placed Camp I at 15,750 feet. Af...
RAPPEL FAILURE, EXPOSURE California, Tuolumne MeadowsI regret to report that an accident occurred on September 1, at the Sierra Club’s Tuolumne Meadows Climb that resulted in the death of Ray Beal. Ray, who had been a member for two years and clim...
RAPPELLED OFF END OF ROPE–FALL ON ROCK, MISCALCULATED RAPPEL STATIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn July 13, as we were preparing to start the Shield route in Yosemite, California, I (Matthew Luck) was ascending the fifth fixed (static) ...
Siguniang, south face to southwest ridge, not to summit; Siguniang North, first ascent, southwest face. I’m at 5,500m. The ice is hard. My crampons rebound, blunted after three weeks. For the last eight years in Haute Savoie the Committee of the F...
Jannu. A strong French expedition, led by Lionel Terray, climbed Jannu (25,294 feet). They followed the extraordinarily difficult route which they had reconnoitered in 1959 to within about 1000 feet of the summit. (See AAJ 1960, 12:1, pp. 156-7 fo...
Mount Owen, Northwest Face. It is a characteristic of mountains and their climbers that routes are developed most extensively on the side offering the easiest approach. This would seem to be the principal explanation for the unclimbed status of th...
A Climber’s Guide to Yosemite Valley by Steve Roper. San Francisco;Sierra Club, 1964. 190 pages, 40 photographs with 15 line drawings by Al MacDonald. $4.75.Yosemite Valley, the finest pure rock-climbing area in the United States, is a paradox in ...
The Possible Altitude of K2George Wallerstein, AAC and Astronomy Department,University of WashingtonEditor’s Note. The Journal is publishing the brief article which appears below because the Editor feels that it is most important for it to appear ...
On March 7, three climbers were climbing the left line of Louise Falls (II WI4+). The temperature in the Lake Louise area had been at around zero degrees C, then dropped to -26 degrees C in the couple of days before March 7. The lead climber had l...
Everest Winter Ascent and Tragedy. Yasuo Kato, 33, was lost on Everest after becoming the first climber to reach the summit in a winter, solo attempt. His partner, Toshiaki Kobayashi, 34, who was following with bivouac supplies and met Kato just b...
Mt. Red Beard, West Ridge. In early May Jamal Lee-Elkin and I, unable to fly into the Hayes Range because of uncooperative weather, flew into the Yentna Glacier south of Mt. Foraker. The Yentna is a relatively unvisited area, probably because the ...
Mount Herschel, Cape Hallett. The members of our party were all experienced mountaineers: Sir Edmund Hillary, leader, N. D. Hardie, Dr. H. J. Harrington, G. Hancox, M. R. Ellis, M. White, Dr. M. Gill, Dr. P. Strang and B. Jenkinson. On October 21,...
The Diluter-Demand Oxygen SystemUsed During the International Himalayan Expedition to Mount EverestF. DUANE BLUME AND NELLO PACEIN 1969 the White Mountain Research Station, University of California Berkeley, was asked by Barry Hagen to assist with...
In June, Jared Ogden and I completed the North Shore (5.11+), a new route on the northwest face of the Big Island. The Big Island is a huge flat-topped formation off Cross Fissures Overlook. The climb follows an invisible line on excellent rock ...
Footprints on the Peaks: Mountaineering in China. Zhou Zheng and Liu Zhenkai. Cloudcap Press, Seattle, Washington, 1995. $30.00.Footprints on the Peaks is a long-overdue and badly-needed counterweight to a decidedly Anglo-centric view of the histo...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face. Nanga Parbat (26,660 feet) has now been climbed three times, each time by an expedition led by Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer and each time by a different route. Each ascent has been followed by the most awesome dissent bet...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. In 1982 the Indian Military Academy completed fifty years of its existence. As a part of the Golden Jubilee, a commemorative expedition, led by me and consisting of its alumni past and present, was organized to scale Kamet and...