Accident Reports ANAM
Leader Fall – Inadequate Protection Utah, Wasatch Range, Little Cottonwood Canyon

On Monday, June 11, my wife and I (male, age 31) went out for a casual day of climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon. We headed up for a lap on Stifler’s Mom (multi-pitch 5.11a), which we have climbed several times. Finding the route empty, we cruis...

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| Published 2018 | Author Mike Marmar


Accident Reports ANAM
Lowering Error – Dangerous Swing While Cleaning Utah, Wasatch Range, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Lonely Challenge Area

In early afternoon on September 25, Salt Lake SAR was called out to the Challenge Buttress after a male and female climber were involved in a climbing accident on Watermelon Tetris (5.9) at the Lonely Challenge sector. This 70-foot sport climb lea...

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| Published 2018 | Author Salt Lake County SAR


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error Utah, Wasatch Range, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Storm Mountain

On July 7, a male climber in his 20s fell to the ground while rappelling from a multi-pitch sport route called Addis Ababa (two pitches, 5.7). The climber and two partners had finished the route, and two of the three climbers had completed the rap...

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| Published 2018 | Author Salt Lake County Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded – Stuck Rappel Rope, No Headlamps Utah, Wasatch Range, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Steorts' Ridge

Salt Lake County Search and Rescue got called out at 9:54 p.m. on May 3 for two climbers (male and female, both 20 years old) near the top of Steorts’ Ridge. The pair had begun climbing the three-pitch 5.6 route around 5:50 p.m. At the top, they t...

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| Published 2018 | Author Salt Lake County Search and Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall – Inexperience, Inadequate Protection Oregon, Smith Rock, Northern Point

On August 15, two male climbers (ages 32 and 47) were attempting Double Time, a 5.7 traditional route at Northern Point in the Basalt Rimrock area. After climbing approximately 30 feet, the leader fell, pulling out two cams (size unknown), and hit...

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| Published 2018 | Author Deschutes County SAR


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall – No Helmet Oregon, Smith Rock, West Side Crags, Mesa Verde Wall

On July 25, a male climber (48) was hanging from a fixed rope while cleaning a new route near the Mesa Verde Wall. The climber’s rope dislodged a dinner plate–size rock from above that fell and struck him on the head. He was not wearing a helmet. ...

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| Published 2018 | Author Deschutes County SAR


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded – Stuck Rappel Ropes Oregon, Smith Rock, Monkey Face, West Face

On May 15, two male climbers (ages 37 and 21), after having climbed Super Slab (5.6) on the Red Wall, attempted a shortcut to the base of the West Face Variation (5.8) on the west side of the Monkey Face to avoid hiking down the Misery Ridge Tra...

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| Published 2018 | Author Deschutes County SAR


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Ground Fall – Slip On Exposed Terrain Above Climb Oregon, Smith Rock, Picnic Lunch Wall

On April 10, Alex Reed (20) was working on a new route on the Picnic Lunch Wall. He had hiked up Misery Ridge alone to access the top of the route, where the terrain is very exposed and requires some 4th- or 5th-class downclimbing. For unknown rea...

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| Published 2018 | Author Deschutes County SAR


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded – Failure to Follow Descent Route Oregon, Smith Rock, Smith Rock Group, Northwest Face

Late on March 27, three male climbers (ages 24, 24, and 34) completed the popular five-pitch sport climb Wherever I May Roam (5.9). With darkness approaching and being unfamiliar with the established rappel route, the party mistakenly rappelled fr...

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| Published 2018 | Author Deschutes County SAR


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall While Scrambling – Loose Rock, Haste Oregon, Smith Rock, Northern Point

On February 17, a male climber (30) fell while free soloing an “easy chimney” between the Lower Gorge and Northern Point. He was attempting a shortcut back to the parking lot after a day of climbing in the Marsupials, rather than taking the longer...

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| Published 2018 | Author Deschutes County SAR


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall On Rock – No Helmet Oregon, Smith Rock, Dihedrals

On January 13, a female climber (34) was leading Karate Wall (5.12c R), a mostly bolted route with old-school runouts at the Dihedrals. The climber was above the next-to-last bolt, a few feet to the right of the bolt line, when she fell. She flipp...

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| Published 2018 | Author Deschutes County SAR


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall While Descending – Tool Pulled Out of Ice Oregon, Mt. Jefferson

In the midafternoon of July 20, Sam Lowry (age 60) and I (Jon Sprecher, age 64) climbed the Jefferson Park Glacier route and were descending the North Milk Creek snowfield to loop back to our camp via the Russell and Jefferson Park glaciers. This ...

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| Published 2018 | Author Jonathan Sprecher


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow – Inexperience, Inadequate Equipment Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side

On May 28 a roped party of three climbers was descending the Pearly Gates at approximately 8:30 a.m. when one climber fell, pulling the others into an uncontrolled fall. No anchors or running protection were being used at the time of the fall.The ...

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| Published 2018 | Author Steve Rollins, Portland Mountain Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Ski Mountaineering Fall – Failure to Assess Conditions Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side

At approximately 10 a.m. on May 26, an experienced skier (male, 35), attempted a ski descent of the Mazama Chute on the upper south slopes of Mt. Hood after reaching the summit. Following many days of warm conditions, the night of May 25 had been ...

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| Published 2018 | Author Mark Morford, Portland Mountain Rescue and the injured skier


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall On Rock – Inexperience, Inadequate Protection North Carolina, Linville Gorge Wilderness, The Daddy

On Saturday, October 27, a trio of climbers (James, Markus, and Jason), all from the Atlanta area, arrived at the base of the Daddy (5.6), located in the Amphitheater. Jason (46) was a relatively new trad climber being mentored by James, who was t...

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| Published 2018 | Author Jason Januzelli and James Robinson and Adrian Hurst of Burke County Rescue.


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall On Rock – Inexperience, Inadequate Protection North Carolina, Linville Gorge Wilderness, The Daddy

On Saturday, October 27, a trio of climbers (James, Markus, and Jason), all from the Atlanta area, arrived at the base of the Daddy (5.6), located in the Amphitheater. Jason (46) was a relatively new trad climber being mentored by James, who was t...

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| Published 2018 | Author Jason Januzelli and James Robinson and Adrian Hurst of Burke County Rescue


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall – Inadequate Protection North Carolina, Hanging Rock State Park, Moore's Wall

Late in the afternoon on October 13, JLC (22) fell approximately 30 feet while leading the traditional route Breaking Rocks Is Hard to Do (5.9). JLC stated that he had been climbing for several years and had led the route before. He was 15 feet ab...

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| Published 2018 | Author Aram Attarian


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall On Rock – Protection Pulled, Impact on Ledge North Carolina, Pisgah National Forest, Looking Glass Rock

Andrew Gatlin (24) and I, Peter Magnin (24), hiked in to climb at the North Side of Looking Glass Rock during the morning of September 21. We decided to attempt Invisible Airwaves. I started leading and was a majority of the way up the 80-foot fir...

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| Published 2018 | Author Peter Magnin


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall On Rock – Inexperience, No Helmet North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State Park, Black Rain Wall

On November 1 at approximately 2 p.m., my partner and I were climbing in the Little Amphitheater when two climbers came around the trail in a hurry and obvious state of distress. Climber 1 (male, early 20s) was shirtless with his hands on his head...

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| Published 2018 | Author Alexander Timkovich


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall – Inexperience, Inadequate Belay North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State Park, The Parking Lot

Late in the afternoon on May 9, Dylan Pappas (21) fell to the ground while climbing Chicken Bone (5.8), a ten-bolt sport route. A member of his climbing party had led the climb before him and left the draws in place. The third bolt was clipped wit...

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| Published 2018 | Author Pilot Mountain State Park Rangers and Doug Lutz, Fox Mountain Guides