Aguja Poincenot, Southeast Buttress. Our expedition was composed of Graziano Bianchi, leader, Andriano Carnati, Alessio Bortoli, Massimo Colombo, Corrado Brustia, Mario Vismara, Bruno Vagletti and me. The base of the southeast buttress of the Aguj...
Fraile Grande, El Altar Group. The Italian Dr. Marino Tremonti has now completed his fourth expedition to the Altar group, two of which were in 1972. With Ferdinando Gaspard, Claudio Zardini, Armando Perron and Sergio Lorenzi, he attempted the Mon...
Malubiting North. A Polish expedition led by R. Szafirski climbed the north summit of Malubiting (22,450 feet) on October 8. The central peak (23,920 feet) and the west peak (24,450 feet) still remain unclimbed.Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth
Torre Egger, Italian Route/Titanic Variation. On December 31, Michael Mayr (“Much”) and I made our first trip to Norwegian Camp. We originally intended to attempt an alpine-style ascent of Badlands, but after inspecting it decided to look at the n...
Northwest Ridge of Teewinot, September 7,1954. John Fonda, Jean Fonda, Don Decker, and Marty Benham followed this long ridge all the way from Cascade Canyon except for a detour in the middle to avoid some smooth sections. The route brings one out ...
Mount Steele Attempt. Because the upper Chitina was too crevassed for a fixed-wing aircraft, we planned to land on the Walsh-Steele col. From there we would carry camps up the long, 10-mile southeast ridge of Mount Steele, traverse Steele and clim...
Kande Hiunchuli and Patrasi Himal Attempts. Swiss and French led by Patrick Marendaz tried to climb Kande Hiunchuli by its northwest ridge but got only to 5600 meters on November 5. They were also turned back at 6000 meters on the south ridge of P...
Himlung Himal, Further Details of the Climb. Our expedition was composed of Osamu Hanai, Takeshi Yamaguchi, Minoru Masuda, Akio Koizumi, Norio Kawai, Hideaki Toda, Osamu Shimuzu, Kazuo Higuchi, Eiji Ishibashi, Ki- yokatsu Saito and me as leader. O...
Syn Qing Feng or Buka Daban. The members of our expedition were Toshiaki Sakaue, Takashi Masuda, Kazuyoshi Nakata, Akira Hayashimoto, Yoichiro Shirota and I as leader. On May 4, we placed Base Camp at 4900 meters and on May 7, Advance Base at 5600...
Members are urged to send in a record of their climbs, together with any new information relative to the regions visited.Cary W. Bok climbed in the Alps last summer, ascending the Mönch; also Piz Bernina and others in the Engadine district.Helen I...
Cordillera Real, Various Ascents. In May and June, on an expedition to Bolivia, several country first ascents were achieved. They included: the first American and U.K. ascent of Janco Laya (5545m), May 22. The (possible) first American and UK asce...
Mountains and Men, by Wilfrid Noyce. 160 pages, with four maps and 17 illustrations. London: Geoffrey Bles, 1947. 18,/-.Ten years ago, when Wilfrid Noyce was an undergraduate at King’s and the editor of Cambridge Mountaineering, 1938, he was alrea...
Fitz Roy and Cerro TorreAlan KearneyTHE MORNING of December 23 heralded the start of our third day on the North Pillar of Fitz Roy. There was enough light to begin climbing but we were tired. My partner Bobby Knight slept soundly and he needed the...
On July 17 Mathew Traver and I traveled to the Malaysian Island of Tioman in the South China Sea. Our objective was the first ascent of the west face of Dragon’s Horns (Bukit Nekek Semekut), a big wall rising from the canopy of the rainforest on t...
Bugaboos Camp of the A.C.C. The 1946 camp of the Alpine Club of Canada was held during the latter half of July in the Bugaboos of the Northern Purcells, W. of the main range of the Canadian Rockies and S.E. of the Selkirks. Main camp was located a...
TABLE III1951-941959-9419951995USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock325238411714Snow1957293434Ice1727886River12300Unknown22600Ascent or DescentAscent295741011312Descent17892745412Unknown3246310Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2147205777Slip on snow or ice72...
HAROLD B. BURTON1908-1992Harold B. Burton died on March 8, 1992 at the age of 84 after a distinguished career as a newspaper reporter and author as well as a mountaineer who in World War II was involved with the training of thousands of soldiers i...
The Mt. McKinley Cosmic Ray Expedition, 1932Edward P. BeckwithIN looking backward to the spring of 1932 it is hard to imagine a more interesting proposal than that of Allen Carpe to join his expedition for measuring cosmic rays, which included a f...
FALLING ROCKS, FALL ON ROCK, POOR POSITIONWashington, Lundin PeakOn September 10, Rob Crapo (37) successfully summitted Lundin Peak (6,057 feet) at 1330 with six members of the Seattle Mountaineers. Rob, an experienced climber with an extensive re...
Daxuetang (5,364m), first ascent. Daxu- etang lies almost due south of Siguniang and is the highest peak within the boundaries of Chengdu city. It borders Wolong Giant Panda Nature Preserve, and we approached and climbed the mountain from that sid...