Swiss Expedition to the Cordillera Vilcabamba and the Cordillera Blanca. The Swiss left Mollepata on May 20 to climb in the Cordillera Vilcabamba in two different groups, Ernest Reiss, Seth Abderhalden, Franz Anderrüthi, Dr. Hans Thoenen and Erich...
Waiting for the SunA year’s worth of climbing on Escudo’s east faceby Jean-Daniel NicoletTRANSLATED BY MARINA HEUSCHPatagonia remains an unconquered country, an oasis of solitude, an ideal place for discovery and adventure. It is battered by winds...
AVALANCHE—Washington, Mt. St. Helens. On April 26, 1975, during a period of wet snow, precipitation and high winds, five students from the University of Puget Sound were killed in a massive avalanche which occurred at 8 p.m.The 29 climbers were le...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—FAILED TO CLIP IN TO ANCHORAlaska, Mount Wake, Denali National ParkOn April 20, 1994, Michele Morseth, Todd McCann (26), and Walker Parke (36) flew into the Ruth Gorge. Their climbing objective was Mount Wake's N...
Chinese Tien-Shan Range, reconnaissance. Four of us—Anatoly Dzhulie (leader), David Lekhtman, Vladimir Leonenko, and myself, Otto Chkhetiani—explored the remote Tien-Shan mountains of China, on the other side of the Kok-Shaal-Too Range. We covered...
Foraker, Second Ascent of West Ridge. On June 24 Spencer Fulweiler, Bob Garmirian, Chris Niles, Mark Siks, Bruce Underwood and I were dropped off at the Purkey Pile landing strip, just west of the McKinley Park boundary. We were hoping to climb th...
Chekigo attempt. Opened in 2002 as a trekking peak, 6,257m Chekigo, which lies east northeast of Beding in the Rolwaling Valley, was attempted by a French commercially organized party in 2004. After the usual problems with Maoists, they were able ...
Roof of the Rockies: A History of Mountaineering in Colorado, by William M. Bueler. Boulder, Colorado: Pruett Publishing Co., 1974. 200 pp. 13 maps, 44 photos. $9.95.As Bueler states, no other American mountains have a longer or more interesting h...
The first ascent of K2’s west face earned “best climb of 2007” status from many observers around the world. It is undoubtedly the most difficult route on the world’s second-highest peak, and it required remarkable effort, skill, and persistence fr...
On RocksElizabeth KnowltonTHE rocks up which one makes one’s way in climbing a mountain are to me not merely pieces of inanimate matter. They have very definite personalities of their own, distinct individualities, not to be confused with those of...
Mount Barrille and Peak 9260. After their ascent of McKinley, Major Banks’ party flew to the Ruth Glacier, where four of them made the third ascent of Mount Barrille. Banks and Wiltshire then made the first ascent of Peak 9260, one mile northeast ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn Saturday July 31, Don Ivie (44) arrived in Jackson with his wife Yvette from Springfield, Missouri. That afternoon, Ivie visited the Jenny Lake Ranger Stat...
Mount Rainier, North Mowich Face. On June 25, Rob Schaller and I completed a new route on the eastern edge of the Mowich Face. From a high camp on a rock island in the North Mowich Glacier (9000 feet), we approached the steep icefall which is a pr...
LOUIS SAMUEL STUR1924-1989Do not go gently into that good night, Old Age should burn and rave at close of day; Rage, rage against the dying of the light.—Dylan ThomasEveryone has a Louis Stur story. There’s the one about two old climbers resting o...
Paintbrush on the HeightsBelmore BrowneNO clan on earth possesses memories that transcend those of the men and women who love the high places. From the "World’s White Rooftree"to the once mythical mountains of the Moon; from the chalet-dotted slop...
Attempt on Mount St. Elias. From July 1 to 14 Bob Baker, Hans Müller, Gary Rose, Ted Schotten, Tom Stewart, Hall Williams and I as leader reconnoitered the northern approach to the west ridge of St. Elias with the hope of possibly climbing the pea...
Quelluant, Cordillera Real. Our group was made up of Pedro Laurys- sens, Captain Benjamin Nazar, Dr. Pedro Cirrincione, Marcelo Quiroga, Raúl Angel Espiño and me. After our arrival in La Paz on July 15, 1963, we were cordially received by the Club...
Mount Clark, Southwest Face. This long face was first climbed by Joe McKeown and me on August 19. We began just left of the single chimney system and climbed some 200 feet to loose blocks where we traversed into the chimney and ascended to an alco...
Yerupajá, West Face; Yerupajá Chico, North Face; Yerupajá Sur, West Face; Rasac, East Face. Our expedition was composed of Eric Decamp, Bernard Due, Roger Pagny, Alex Smetanine and me as leader. We did all climbs alpine-style without fixed ropes. ...
In June and July Daniele Bernasconi, Mario Panzeri, and I traveled to the Shaksgam Valley to attempt an alpine-style ascent of Gasherbrum I. Unfortunately, due to the inefficiency of the agency that organized our logistics, it took 45 days t...