Two flights, three days of bum-bruising off-road driving, and two days of scenic hiking brought us to our base camp (4,600m, 33°16'19.52"N, 76°54'20.20"E) in an arena of unclimbed mountains. It was September 1, and we were in a western branch of t...
Kamet, Normal Route, ascent. In the autumn Sue Nott and I spent seven weeks on an expedition to Kamet. We were plagued by horrible weather. On the approach from base camp to advanced base we got trapped between camps for five days while more than ...
Dhaulagiri Ascents and Tragedy. Our international team consisted of Italian Marco Berti, leader, Italian Marco Bianchi, Italian (South Tirolean) Christian Kuntner, Poles Piotr Pustelnik and Józef Gozdzik, Portuguese João García and me from the Uni...
The Unclimbable Summits?David KozakRECENTLY AS I WAS READING through the Base Camp section of Climbing magazine I came across a bit of information that distressed me. The following paragraph appears word for word from the magazine:“The Four Comers...
Volcan El Peinado, and Other Ascents. Our group consisted of Maria Constanza Ceruti, Gustaro Gomez, Hernan Ponce, Nestor Perez and I, all from Buenos Aires. We wanted to attempt the beautiful Volcan El Peinado (5741 m) (the Combed One), a remote v...
Cirque Peak. Mr. George Weed informs us that neither R. F. Curtis nor C. E. Fay took part in the first ascent of this mountain in 1898. Fay and Curtis did not join the party of Nichols, Thompson and Weed during the 15 days beginning 30 July 1898, ...
Peak 4151, South Face. Mt. Corcoran consists of four widely separated summits along the Sierra crest. The southernmost peak, a.k.a. Peak 4151, presents a striking sight in the upper reaches of Tuttle Creek’s south fork. The south face rises steepl...
From November 10 to 13, Li Zhongli and I made an alpine-style ascent of the south face of Siguniang (Yaomei Feng), the highest of the Siguniang Shan (Four Girls Mountains). I first tried the line in October 2006, retreating from the base of th...
Climbing in Kluane National Park. During 1983 there were 18 groups in the Kluane National Park portion of the St. Elias Mountains. These 89 people spent a total of 1686 man-days. Aside from those recounted separately, the following climbs are wort...
ROCK BROKE OFF, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEKentucky, Red River Gorge State ParkOn October 2, a climber (22) was on top of Courthouse Rock looking for an anchor placement for rappelling...
Pyramid Peak, Attempt. The Australian Pyramid Peak Expedition consisted of seven climbers (Darren Miller, leader; James Serie, Gavin Dunmall, Nicola Sunderland, Scott Welch, Jon Chapman, Morvan Grant) with the aim to make the first ascent of this ...
TABLE IIReported Mountaineering AccidentsYearNumber of accidents Reported U.S.A-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved U.SA.-CAN.InjuredU.SA.-CAN.KilledU.S.A.-CAN.19511421103195229321713195324271412195431413181955343929131956467151181957455328181958...
Arrigetch Peaks, Samurai Savitz and Rock Jock. Tim Kemple, Justin Sjong, and I flew to Betties, where we met Max Hanft, the only local climber. He accompanied us on our journey into the Arrigetch. Our team, with a combined age of less than 100, wa...
Snehätten, West Greenland. On August 13, Egidio Bolis, Dario De Nigro, Andrea Farina, Amedeo and Margherita Gatti, Emilio Moreschi, Giovanna Nava and I climbed Snehätten (Nugatsiaup Qaqa; 1765 meters, 5791 feet), the culminating point of Qeqertars...
FALL ON ICEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, near Lake LouiseOn March 11, 1984, two ice climbers (26 and 25) attempted the falls near the Plain- of-Six-Glaciers Teahouse in the Lake Louise area of Banff National Park. They traveled to the falls on cross-c...
RAPPEL FAILURE–INADEQUATE ANCHORAlaska, Moose's Tooth, Shaken Not StirredIn the early morning of May 1, around 0200, Kevin Cooper and Ryan Jennings (ages unknown, as they did not register) were descending from the “Shaken Not Stirred” route on the...
Z3, Zanskar Group. Our expedition consisted of Gianni Pasinetti, Giacomo Cenini, Piero Favalli, Rina Gentilini, Tullio Rocco, Massimo Sanavio and me as leader. We had as objectives Z3 and Z8. We placed Base Camp on August 7 near the Pensi La at 14...
Huandoy Norte, North Face, Attempt, and Northwest Face, Solo Ascent. It was 7 a.m. as Ed Diffendal and I began the task of flagging down a taxi in Huaraz, Peru, our sights set on climbing Huandoy Norte. As we flagged down a taxi, we realized that ...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR-PROTECTION PULLED OUTBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Eastpost SpireOn July 18, Dave Ireland (51) and Peter Uzieblo were about two pitches up Lions Way (5.6, six pitches) on Eastpost Spire. One dropped his digital ca...
Cho Oyu, Scientific and Climbing Expedition. We had a medical team, Drs. Julio Alberdi, José Martínez, María Jesús Alvarado and me as leader, and climbers Juan José Amezgaray, Atxo Apellaniz, Iñaki Kerejeta, Xabier López de Gereñu, Juan Oiarzabal,...