Val d’Hérens, by Paul Budry (French text) and Franz Baeschlin (German text). 16 pages of text (with the two languages in parallel columns), 76 illustrations. Neuchatel: Editions de la Baconniere, 1951.Here is the first of a series of small books a...
Huayna Potosí, West Ridge. Rab Carrington and I climbed the west ridge of Huayna Potosí in May. (The first ascent was by Laba and Hudson in 1969, when the ridge was incorrectly identified as being northeast.—Editor.) The first attempt failed due t...
Mount Tupper, South Face, Selkirks. Ever since the opening of the Rogers Pass section of the Trans-Canada Highway, I had been hoping to get onto the now easily accessible, unclimbed south face of Mount Tupper, which towers magnificently north of t...
Nanda Devi, North Ridge Attempt. Our expedition comprised Vladimír Starcala, leader, Dr. Jan Charousek, Kamil Karafa, Ludek Záhoran- ský, Ceslav Wojcik, Bretislav Husicka, Petr Hapala, Jan Marek, Josef Zeitler, Josef Kývala, Leos Horka, Petr Gribe...
M7, West Face, Mandaras Valley. A 12-man Catalan expedition was in the Mandaras valley from July 15 to August 15. After a two-day approach from Qadzi-Deh with 16 porters we placed Base Camp at 13,750 feet. A high camp was placed at 16,750 feet at ...
Tilicho, Third Ascent. On October 10 our eight members left Dumre with six Sherpas and 40 porters and reached Base Camp at Tilitso, a lake at 16,075 feet 14 days later. We fixed some 2250 feet of rope on the mixed climbing above Base Camp. On Octo...
Mount Hayes, East Face. In April, Tom Walter and I flew to the Alaska Range to try a new route on the unclimbed 6400-foot east face of Mount Hayes (4216 meters, 13,832 feet). The face consisted of 50% snow and 50% blue ice, much more of the latter...
Geladaintong, Northeast Face. I was invited by Geographic Expeditions to guide two American clients, William Rom, M.D. and Dan Luchtel, Ph.D., on a peak called Geladaintong (one of a few spellings), which is 6621 meters high and located at what th...
The Highest Summits of the Continents. In trying to calculate which are the highest summits of each of the continents, one must first figure whether Australia should be taken as a continent by itself or whether the islands of the Pacific should be...
Climbing in the Quebrada Rajucolta and Huascarán. In early June, 1971, Laurie Skreslet, John Stanley and I climbed Huamashraju and then crossed the valley to climb to the western summit of Cashan Oeste, where we followed the western ridge the whol...
The pressure is rising. Clear skies move from the south, and brilliant stars appear overhead. In under three weeks in Patagonia, I have soloed Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. Already I have far exceeded my expectations, yet I still search for something ...
Bhagirathi III, West Face. Our team was formed by Juan C. Aldeguer, Sergio Martínez, José L. Moreno and me. On April 26 we arrived at Base Camp at 4300 meters. The following day we began to ferry loads to Advance Base at 5000 meters at the foot of...
December 20. Andres Zegers (Chile) and I are at the Plaza Francia, and the weather is fantastic. We are watching the face, noting the fall lines of avalanches and seracs. There appears to be the possibility of a new variation to the 1985 French Di...
Bhagirathi II, 1989 and 1990. I have led two commercial expeditions to Bhagirathi II. We were successful in getting four clients and two guides to the summit in 1989 but bad conditions stopped our 1990 attempt at 6200 meters. Both times we climbed...
EAST OF THE HIMALAYA "Overview" "Part I: East Tibet" "Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of The Hengduan Mountains" "Part III: West Sichuan Highland-Yangtze River Basin" From the “Alps of Tibet” to the eastern fringes of t...
A.A.C., New York Section. Several new overtures marked the year of 1990. The New York Section Environmental Fund, designed to assist clean-up operations, made its first grant—for $1,000—to the Everest Environmental Expedition organized by Bob McCo...
K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain. Ed Viesturs, with David Roberts. Broadway Books, 2009. 342 pages. Color and black & white photos. Hardcover $26.00.K2: Lies and Treachery. Robert Marshall. Carreg Limited, 2009. 232 pa...
George R. Senner 1924-2003While in the Park Service at Mount Rainier National Park, I developed some of the closest friendships of my life, and many of us guides and park rangers met gals who later became our wives. It was there that my brother K ...
Information on IceSeven years of first ascents and data collection in Antarctica.Damien GildeaI love The Information. I don’t know why, I just do; it’s the way I am. I also love mountains and climbing, and for 15 years I’ve felt compelled to give ...
HORST von HENNIG1902-1992On November 30, Horst von Hennig passed away at this home of over 50 years in Greenwich, Connecticut. The day before, he had celebrated his 90th birthday. He had been a member of the American Alpine Club since 1952. He was...