Kula Kangri, Third Ascent. It was reported that a Spanish expedition made the third ascent of Kula Kangri (7554m) in May. Base camp was established on May 4; by May 15, a route that roughly followed the west ridge had been established to Camp II a...
Vinson Massif. On November 27, Reinhold Messner, Wolfgang Tomaseth and I reached the highest point of Antarctica 26 hours after Giles Kershaw had landed us below the peak. The weather was wonderful and the climb, during which we slept at what is n...
Chinchey. Our group consisted of Dennis Hegyi, E. Gregory Lee, Neil E. Paton, Timothy J. Ryan, Anthony W. Thompson, Joseph M. Weiss and me. We were international since Paton is from New Zealand and I am from the Netherlands, although the rest are ...
Kangerdlugssuaq Mountains, first ascents. To celebrate the centenary of the Cambridge University Mountaineering Club, eight members planned an expedition to East Greenland during July. As our departure time from the U.K. approached, it became obvi...
Everest Ascent and Tragedy. A Spanish Catalan expedition led by Lluis Belvis was composed of 22 members, including a film crew, doctor and scientist. They hoped to climb the west ridge of Everest. Base Camp was established at 5320 meters on August...
FALLING ROCKS, WEATHER Wyoming, TetonsRobert (51), Bob (21) and David (16) Frank signed out at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station on August 1, 1985, for a climb of the Skillet Glacier on Mt. Moran the following day. They left the String Lake trailhead ...
Fitz Roy, Supercanaleta. Max Berger, Jérome Blanc-Gras, and I made a winter ascent of Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy on August 9. Ours was the third or fourth winter ascent, the first reported winter ascent having been made by Argentine climbers.Condit...
Mount Dawson, North Face, Selkirk Range, 1988. Fred Beckey, Dave Pollari and I approached the Dawson group from Rogers Pass on August 2, 1988, crossing the Illecillewaet Icefield to the Glacier Circle Hut. After a day of rain, we climbed over the ...
The highlight of the Antarctic season was undoubtedly the string of big climbs done by the French team of Mathieu Cortial, Lionel Daudet, and Patrick Wagnon, traveling aboard Isabelle Autissier’s Ada II. This was Daudet's third voyage to the...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, EXHAUSTION,INEXPERIENCEWashington, LeavenworthOn April 19, 1987, Larry Laske (24) reported that he had successfully led two pitches of 5.8 on Airy Canary on Castle Rock and wanted more of a challenge. He started ...
Bhagirathi II. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Mineo Kawai climbed Bhagirathi II (6512 meters, 21,365 feet) by its east face. Base Camp was set up on July 23. After reconnoitering the north face, they turned to the east face. Camps I and II ...
Alaska: Kenai Peninsula. While hiking on the Spencer Galcier in the Kenai Peninsula, Gerald Rose, 21, fell into a crevasse and was killed. His companion, Robert Rose, 23, went for help. Rescue operations were hampered by bad weather, including 60-...
While the highest peak in the Ramada is Mercedario, the most attractive is Polaco, immediately south. In January Javier Giuliani, Juan Manuel Leániz, and Fabrizio Oieni (Argentina) were active in this area. From the standard base camp at Pirca ...
FALLING OBJECT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCK California, Yosemite ValleyOn June 22, 1989, about 1100, Trenton Cladouhos (23) was on the sixth pitch of the standard route, Northwest Face, Half Dome, climbing and trailing a haul line. His hau...
Trango Towers. Five expeditions climbed on the Trango Towers this season. Three parties attempted a new route on the east face of the Nameless Tower: Pole Wojciech Kurtyka with three Japanese, the American group described in this journal and Frenc...
Deborah: A Wilderness Narrative, by David Roberts. New York: The Vanguard Press, 1970. 188 pages, 15 photographs, $6.95Who has not had at least one mountain experience ruined by some kind of intrapersonal conflict? Planning may be flawless, weathe...
False Cape Renard, Zerua Peak, Azken Paradizua. From Cape Horn on December 10, my brother Iker, filmmakers Jabi Baraiazarra and Gotxon Arribas, and I sailed the legendary, harrowing, Drake Passage to Antarctica in the Northanger. Four long days fr...
Meru Central, spring attempt and successful autumn first ascent. On his second visit to the Gangotri in 2001, Valeri Babanov from Russia made the much sought after first ascent of 6310m Meru Central, commonly referred to as The Shark’s Fin. Before...
Bhagirathi II. A team from near Calcutta was led by Miss Bani Bose. The peak was climbed on June 6 by Miss Bose, Debashish Mitra, Kamal Mukherjee and two high-altitude porters.Kamal K. Guha. Editor, Himavanta, India
Carstenz Range. On October 15 the American-Indonesian Puncak Jaya Expedition landed in the Illaga valley in Irian Jaya, the Indonesian half of New Guinea. Our party was composed of Dan Emmett, Phil Trimble and me from the United States and Frank M...