Copa and attempt on Huascarán, Cordillera Blanca. From Base Camp at the lake below the southwest face of Copa (20,351 feet), Art Mears, Jerry Halpern, Robin Wilson, my wife Barbara and I moved up to our high camp at 17,000 feet on June 19. We all ...
Haramosh II, First Ascent and Tragedy. Our trip was run in as lightweight style as possible. The cost was initially estimated by a remarkably simple calculation: “Nunn’s Law,” which states that the net cost per head of any expedition is about “a t...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club found 1962 to be an active year, its twenty-third of operation since its founding in 1940. The club now has 368 Active and Expedition members who reside in 38 states and five foreign countries. In addition it has a larg...
Mount Alberta. Five climbers of the Old Boys’ Alpine Club of Nagano Prefecture High School, led by Mamoru Tajima, made the second Japanese ascent of Mount Alberta on July 29.Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club
Washington, Cascades, Nooksack Tower. On July 21 Mike Kennedy and Roger Jackson (28) were approaching the Nooksack Tower. The approach requires the fording of the Nooksack River. The river is glacial melt, and swift, yet has a rocky irregular bott...
Ecological Impact on the Nanda Devi Area. It appears that many expeditions that enter the Garhwal leave the campsites, both on the march in and on the mountains, in a mess. There is no reason why a campsite on the march in should not be left clean...
Mt. Kenya, Various Ascents. In late February, Benny Bach and I spent a month on Mt. Kenya, making ascents of several of the bigger summits (Batian, Nelion, Point John, Point Lenana) by their standard routes, then climbing several obscure but excel...
Hayes Range Ski Traverse. Mike Brown, Richard Cooper, David Williams and I made a ski traverse of the Hayes Range during the spring of 1986, climbing six minor peaks on the way. Leaving the George Parks Highway at mile 229 on March 29, we arrived ...
North Carolina, Durham. On 23 November a party of climbers from the University of North Carolina were practicing rock climbing technique at an abandoned rock quarry about one mile south of Durham. George Huppert (20) and Joseph McSwain started to ...
Fuladi Valley. Led by Zbigniew Szarejko, the Geographical-Scientific Expedition of the University of Wroclaw was made up of J. Sacewicz, Z. Laczmanski, J. Pietruszka, J. Szarejko, E. Szymanski, Z. Kacuga, J. Klincewicz, W. Panejko and Dr. A. Chrus...
German Expedition to the Cordillera Huayhuash. An expedition of the Oberland Section of the German Alpine Club (DAV), led by Horst Wels, was dogged throughout by bad luck which finally ended in the tragic death of three of its members, Manfred Jor...
Tilicho Attempt. A joint German-Swiss expedition attempted Tilicho in the pre-monsoon season via the north ridge from the east. The leader was Dr. Jörg Biel. They reached about 20,000 feet. Of only three climbing members, one got sick. The Sherpas...
Royal Tower, North Face, and Other Climbs, Little Switzerland. Bill McKenna and I spent nine days at the end of May in Little Switzerland on the Pica Glacier. We established a new route on the north face of the Royal Tower and did a few other hard...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)A climber fell and broke his leg on June 5. The man was climbing a route called The Bowl (145 m. 5.10a) when he grabbed onto a chalk-covered handhold...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. In August, the Club sponsored its eleventh Western Outing. It was conducted in the Northern Cascade Range in Washington, with Base Camp situated a half mile east of Cascade Pass. The camp was attended by 66 participant...
Turnweather Glacier, Sangtraït. When Frank Van Herreweghe (Belgian, but Catalonian citizen) and I arrived at Auyuittuq National Park, we felt really happy. After months waiting for this moment, finally we were in Baffin, ready to enjoy this unknow...
Trail Country: Olympic National Park, by Robert L. Wood. Seattle, Washington: The Mountaineers, 1968. 298 pages, 24 photographs, 24 maps. Price: $6.95.Drawing on 20 years of research and study of the Olympic Peninsula, and 20 summers spent largely...
The Mountaineers. Interest in The Mountaineer Climbing Course continued high during 1965, with 274 students in the Basic Course and 61 new enrollees in the Intermediate Course. A record 106 climbers graduated from the Basic Course, while 12 receiv...
Cordillera Real and Cordillera Occidental. My wife Ria and I were in the field from August 3 to September 14. We first climbed in the Cordillera Real from the valley of Río Palcoco and Laguna Khunu Kkota. Base Camp was at 4800 meters at the tongue...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. During the past year the Section lost two of its oldest members, Beatrice de Lacy and Fred Ayres, and gained ten new ones giving a current total of 51. At our regular dinner meetings we were entertained by Price Zimmermann’...