East. The Appalachian Mountain Club is in the process of organizing courses and talks on mountaineering problems. It is expected that rock climbing, and the special rescue problems involved, will receive particular attention.The Potomac Appalachia...
Karyolung, Winter Ascent. Another Japanese-Nepalese expedition climbed Karyolung, also by the northeast face, but this was done in the winter. Two Japanese, Akira Yamada and Katsuichi Tanaka, and two Nepalese members, Sherpas Ang Kami and Pemba Ts...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Eldorado State Park, Bastille RockOn July 27, Aaron Nydam (24) sustained a dislocated hip and cuts on his leg after falling about 25 feet while climbing with his brothers Scott and Trevor. His climbing ...
Nuptse, Southwest Ridge, Attempt. Hans Kammerlander (Italy) and his only other teammate, Maurizio Lutzenberger, attempted to be the first people ever to reach Nuptse’s slightly higher east summit (7804m). But they could manage to go no higher alon...
Mount Wilson, Southwest Face. Gray Thompson and I spent a late August evening and all the ensuing day climbing a winding route through limestone cliff bands on Wilson’s southwest face. Route finding was the major problem, as we had only one short ...
North of Eden, North Dome, Kings Canyon National Park. In July, Roy Swafford, Todd Vogeland and I climbed an 11-pitch route on the east buttress of North Dome. The route follows a distinct corner system consisting of wide cracks. The crux reminded...
Generator Crack Area. In April 1971, Jerry Coe and I explored a hitherto hidden small 200-foot cliff band directly above the generator building of Generator Crack infamy. This cliff, characterized by knobs, has thus far yielded four fine short rou...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION OR BELAY FAILURENew Hampshire, Cannon CliffIn early July, 1983, two climbers from Dartmouth College were on the early section of Wiessner’s (5.6) when the leader (21) fell and was not stopped, either because his protection...
Die Grossen Kalten Berge von Szetschuan, by Eduard Imhof. 1974, Zürich: Orell Füssli Verlag. 227 pages, numerous photos, sketches, reproductions of water-colors by the author (in color), topographical and sketch maps.This book is of particular int...
Mt. Balfour. 1940, E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard. Traverse from Twin Falls via Balfour Pass and N. ridge, with descent to Takakkaw camp by way of S. ridge and Daly Glacier. By trail from Twin Falls chalet to receding tongue of Yoho Glacier. Cross...
Colorado National Monument. K.C. Baum and Tom Archibeque established three new routes on the relatively solid Wingate Sandstone of Colorado National Monument: The Rainbow Bridge (I, 5.11d), 35 feet right of Higher Mind Dynamics on the Lower Monume...
Kluane National Park and Reserve, summary. The weather in this region is generally unforgiving and unpredictable during the climbing season. High winds, thick clouds, and heavy snowfalls are the bane of pilots and climbers alike. In 2007 a steady ...
SLIP ON SNOW/ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FAILURE TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONSAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 19,1985, the 13-member German guided party, led by a guide named Zeheleitner, began their ascent of the West Buttress of Mt. McKinle...
Latok III. The following were members of the Latok III expedition: Kazushige Takami, Sakae Mori, Kiyukaza Kitamura, Keiso Sadatomo, Naoki Ohudaira and I as leader. We climbed the mountain from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier via the southwest ridge, wh...
Broad Peak, West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Paul Briggs, Steve Strain, Bob McIntosh and me as leader, but McIntosh injured his knee near the tongue of the Baltoro Glacier and had to leave the expedition. We arrived in Skardu on J...
Mount Helen, North Face, Tower 1 Ice Gully, Wind River Range. On August 26 Bill Lindberg and I ascended the gully on the north face which reaches the notch between Towers 1 and 2 on the 1946 Kraus route. The ice here is not as steep as it appears ...
Eastpost Peak. First ascent, August 16th, 1938. E. Cromwell, F. S. North. This summit is unnamed on Thorington map, but was christened in relation to Northpost Spire. It can be seen from the Bugaboo Valley floor. To breakfast place on Crescent Gla...
FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount IshbelOn October 5, 1987, a party of two climbed the finger on Mount Ishbel. On the descent, one of the climbers tripped on an untied shoelace, causing him to tumble down steep Class 4 terrain, severely ...
Baruntse Attempt. A seven-member South Korean expedition led by Kim Byung-Joon hoped to complete a route up the west face and along the north ridge of Baruntse. A team from the Netherlands climbed this route as far as the north summit in 1983. The...
Wild Snow: A Historical Guide to North American Ski Mountaineering. Louis W. Dawson. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1997. 214 black-and-white photographs, ten maps. 292 pages. $40.00.Lou Dawson values nothing more than a stimulating ski descent from a...