JAMES BALDWIN1938 - 1964It was with shock and disbelief that Jim’s many friends learned of his death this spring. He was killed while rappelling in the dark on the east face of Washington Column in Yosemite Valley. No one will ever know exactly wh...
Mt. Everest, north face snowboarding attempt. Marc (“Marco”) Siffredi, the well known 23-year-old French professional snowboarder from Chamonix, came to Mt. Everest this autumn to snowboard down two couloirs on the mountain's north side. This was ...
Castle Peak, Wrangell Mountains. Castle Peak is very deserving of its name, for it is a giant monolith whose rock walls rise almost straight up 3500 feet from the glacier below its southern and eastern exposures and a good 2000 feet on the west. I...
FALLING ROCK—Alberta, Banff, Mt. Rundle. Geoffrey Taylor (16) and Steve Ord (16) were climbing Mt. Rundle on August 4 by the usual easy route. They became separated, Ord being in front, and maintained contact by voice. Taylor stopped calling about...
Chimborazo. On March 3 David P. Johnston and Peter H. Robinson climbed all the way from the refuge at 16,000 feet over "Punta Veintemil” and across the deep soft snow to "Punta Whymper” (20,563 feet), the farthest point from the center of the eart...
Tragédies Alpestres, by Charles Gos. 8 vo., illustrated. Paris: V. Attinger, 1939.The author is the literary director of the “Montagne” series issued by the firm of Attinger in Paris and Neuchatel. Gos is himself an honorary member of the Alpine C...
Diran Tragedy. The leader Francesc Xavier Socias and José Marmol of a 9-man expedition from Mallorca, Spain were killed in an accident on Diran. Details are not available at this time.
Nomads of the North. Text by Elly Jannes; pictures by Anna Riw- kin-Brick. Translated by William Cameron and Karin Wander. 82 pages of photographic illustrations, each with an explanatory paragraph of text, and an introduction. Stockholm: Kooperat...
Mount Jefferson, East Face Direct, Oregon Cascades. An ascent of the east face direct via the Warm Springs Couloir was first made by Price Zimmermann and me on May 31, 1969. Seven hours after abandoning our pick-up in a snow bank, we arrived at th...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. The activity of the Rocky Mountain Section continued to increase in 1989. Quarterly meetings were held in Denver, featuring slide shows by various Section members about their international climbing expeditions. In M...
Peaks above the Borgbjerg Glacier, Southern Staunings Alper. Our Swabian expedition was composed of Winfried Baumgärtner, Ulrich Bayer, Dieter Brodmann, Rudi Laich, Dietrich Schloz, Wolfgang Vögele and me as leader. After an airdrop on July 17, 19...
Kabru Dome. An 11-man Indian expedition of the Parbat Abhijatri Sangha, a mountaineering club in Calcutta, was led by Biswadeb Biswas. Kabru Dome (21,650 feet) was climbed on May 6 by Nemai Bose, Madan Mondal, and the Sherpas Pasang Lama and Karma.
Kazuyoshi Uematsu led a three-man team that made the first ascent of the southeast face of Niuxin Shan (Ox Heart mountain), the biggest rock wall on this outstanding peak above the east bank of the Shuangqiao Valley. In 2002 a five-man Jap...
Mount Russell, Alaska Range. In late May and early June a party consisting of Gene Wescott, Buck Wilson, Bob Goodwin and Jon Gardey made an attempt on Mount Russell (11,670 feet), which is the unclimbed southwestern boundary point of McKinley Park...
Guyito Peak, Sierra Juárez. On May 24, Greg Epperson, Dan Curley and I climbed the south face of the east pillar of this well hidden jewel. The peak lies just east of El Chancero (A.A.J., 1978, p. 556) and is comprised of excellent granodiorite. T...
Moose’s Tooth, Shaken Not Stirred, Various Ascents. In May, the Shaken Not Stirred route on the south face of the Moose’s Tooth received its second, third, and fourth ascents over the course of three days. Kelly Cordes and Scott DeCapio, Topher an...
Lotus Flower Tower. On July 2 Mark Wagner, Doug Feil, Mark Hendrix and I flew to Glacier Lake and soon were established in Tombstone Meadows. Poor weather kept us on the ground for several days. Finally a half-clearing allowed Hendrix and me an un...
West Bell Tower. These towers of excellent granite are three miles up Bells Canyon near Salt Lake City. On September 29, Larry Evans, Dick Ream* and Fred Beckey started a route on the West Bell Tower. They climbed the first two leads, mostly direc...
LOSS OF CONTROL, VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWyoming, TetonsOn July 13, Gary Price (22), Mark Hasson, Barry Thomas, and Ethan Rathburn were climbing the East Couloir route on Disappointment Peak. After reaching the summit, the party began its descent by the...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Table Rock Mountain, Helmet ButtressTwo climbers a male, B. D. (26) and female, JD (20s) were attempting Helmet Buttress (5.6) on September 2. J. D. was belaying B. D. on the first pitc...