Langtang Lirung, Winter Ascent. Two Japanese teams went to the normal southeast ridge of Langtang Lining (7234 meters, 23,734 feet). Our group led by Koichi Ezaki consisted of Masayuki Sano, Manabu Kuboki, Kimihiro Moriya, Chie Takeuchi (f), Hiros...
Cordillera Vilcanota, Colque Cruz Range, Various Ascents, and Research on the affect of altitude and acclimatization on basic neurophysical and cognitive function and erectile function. After looking carefully at the Alpine and American Alpine Jou...
FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons GlacierOn July 29, Don McIntyre and Joel Koury had just climbed Liberty Ridge and were forced to bivy near the summit of Rainier due to a sudden storm which deposited wet, heavy snow on the upper...
Pumori, East Face, and Lhotse, First Female Ascent*. On April 15, our Pumori team was established in Base Camp at 5300 meters. Our chosen route was the east face of Pumori. On April 27, Chantai Mauduit, Mike Pearson, and Daniel Mazur climbed from ...
Washington, Cascades, Red Mountain. In August a party of about 25 persons reached the small lake on the Crest Trail below Red Mountain about 10:15 on a warm, sunny morning. After a rest, about twenty members (12 men, all with previous climbing exp...
Tijeras Peak, new routes. On July 19, Cam Burns, of the Basalt Bigfoot Coalition, and I attempted to climb the crowning rock ridge that runs east-west on Tijeras Peak (13,604') in the Sangre de Cristo Range. We completed four pitches up the southe...
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Daff DomeOn September 15 at 1520, Anne Venturelli (33) had top-roped about 30 feet of a 5.7 climb known as “Western Front” on Daff Dome. Venturelli was unable to complete the pitch and ...
Mount Moore, British Columbia Coast Mountains. Located south of Tatlayoko Lake and west of Chilko Lake, Mount Moore is a prominent mountain that features a spectacular hanging glacier, ice sheets and couloirs on its 2500-foot-high, broad northern ...
Mt. Owen, North Ridge, first winter ascent. My partner, local innkeeper Hans Johnstone, and I, a guide, completed the first winter ascent of the North Ridge of Mt. Owen on March 18, 2007. One of the longest rock climbs in Grand Teton National Park...
FALL ON SNOW OR ICE, CLIMBING ALONE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount BowlenOn July 4, 1983, a call was received by the Lake Louise Warden Office to report that a friend of the caller was overdue from a solo climbing trip in the Moraine Lake area. A...
FALL ON ROCKBritish Columbia, Squamish, Lower Malamute areaOn August 6, a 23-year-old male from the United States fell while rock climbing in an area known as the Lower Malamute. He narrowly missed hitting the railroad tracks when he fell. He was ...
Ulamertorssuaq, Piteraq, and Little Ulamertorssuaq, Mosquito Attack, New Routes. From June 27 to July 19, we established a new route on Ulamertorssuaq’s 900-meter south face. Our team was Torben Redder (Denmark), Jens Søndergaard (Denmark), Lars H...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. The Oregon Section had a productive year with a variety of events. Numerous members of the section worked to make Silcox Hut more accessible to climbers. During the month of May, the completed classical Cascadian Hut was op...
Kwangde, Winter Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Shin’ya Ikuta climbed Kwangde’s northeast ridge. In the last week of December 1982 and first week of January, they placed two camps and fixed rope on a headwall. Yasuki Nishimoto, Kenji Fujita a...
An easy first ascent of peak V 5 (13,200 ft.) was made by L. Giesecke and the writer.The numerous aiguilles of the Saint Sophia Ridge were visited by several members of the San Juan Mountaineers. The entire length of the ridge was traversed along ...
Au dela de la Verticale, Livanos as told to Arthaud. Paris: 1958. 268 pages ; 17 ills.It was a happy day for me when I was asked to review Livanos-Arthaud’s delightful Au dela de la Verticale. A description of Class VI rock-climbs of the Alps can ...
Minaret Peak, Ascent. On May 5, A1 Read, Jean Weiss (U.S.), Abbas Jafari (Iran) and I left the Iran Mountaineering Federation’s hut at the village of Rudbarak in the foothills of the Alam Kooh (also transliterated as Alum Kuh; see above) range of ...
Cho Oyu, Illegal Ascent. Two Polish climbers, Tadeusz Karolczak and Aleksander Lwow, made an unauthorized climb of Cho Oyu, reaching the summit on September 30. They climbed the northwest face after crossing into Tibet from Nepal.
One hundred kilometers south of the island of Mozambique, along some of the prettiest and most remote coastline in the world, you will find the small town of Liupo. Besides being the site of a major crossroads that sees the occasional U.N. Landrov...
Chachacomani, Chearoco and Other Peaks, 1984 to 1989. The American Alpine Institute has conducted a number of expeditions into the Chachacomani- Chearoco massif over the past few years. We normally approached from the east into the Echsococho vall...