FALLING ROCKNew Hampshire, Cannon CliffIn May, a climber was injured by rockfall on the upper part of Union Jack on Cannon. Other climbers have reported loose rock on Cannon, including on the Whitney- Gilman arete, Fugue, and Vertigo. Routes on Ca...
Foraker, 1975. In late June, 1975 Rob Muir, leader, Rob Dellinger, Jim Hoagland, Steve West, Ken Cook, Larry Dunmire, Greg Sapp and I were flown to the southwest fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. From the southern cirque we planned to ferry our equipm...
Washington, Mount Adams. On February 3rd Keith Edwards (age 24) and Dwain Hess (19) established a base camp below Goat Butte at the foot of Mt. Adams. Their purpose was to scout the area for a later climb by a larger group, possibly up the Rusk Gl...
Nun Attempts. A number of expeditions to Nun this year failed to reach the summit. These included Netherlanders led by R.D. West, Taiwanese led by Gau Ming-Ho, British led by Patrick Littlejohn, Japanese led by Ryozo Takenami and French led by J.M...
Hallett’s Peak. On July 27 Yvon Chouinard and Ken Weeks started up the north face of the third buttress. Instead of climbing the prominent chimney, we went straight up the face and rejoined the regular route at the next to the last patch. No direc...
OFF ROUTE, STRANDED, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn August 1, 1994, a party of two were overdue on the East Ridge route of Mt. Temple (3544 meters). A search was initiated and they were located below the Black Tower...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face, Kinshofer Route, First British Ascent. Ours was a small expedition consisting of Ghazala Ahmad, my wife and expedition doctor, David Walsh and me. Also with us were Kevin Higgins and Ian Hilton during our acclimatization...
East Face of Longs Peak, Diamond, From August 25 to 27 Mike Covington and I made a new route on the Yellow Wall to the left of "Diamond-7,” which we called the "Curving Vine” because of the abundance of green plants in the long curving dihedral we...
Aq Task. A joint Indo-Japanese expedition was led by Indian Hukam Singh and me. After arriving at Base Camp at 4800 meters on July 18, we established Camp I at 5600 meters on the Yangbar Glacier on July 21. From there, the eight Indians headed for...
High Adventure, by Bob and Ira Spring. Text by Norma and Patricia Spring. 128 pages, 150 illustrations. Seattle: Superior Publishing Co., 1951. Price, $8.50.The cover of High Adventure states that it is by “America’s Outstanding Mountain Photograp...
Yugoslavian-American Exchange Program. Yugoslavian climbers, Borut Bergant and Iztok Tomanzin, visited the United States for 38 days. This was an exchange program between the American Alpine Club and the Yugoslavian Alpine Organization. (Komisija ...
Staunings Alps. The Italian Greenland Expedition, led by Guido Monzino of Milan, last summer visited the Staunings Alps on the east coast at 72° North. In 1963 Monzino had led another expedition to the same region, which visited the area of the Be...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, POOR ROUTE SELECTION, HASTE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount TeewinotOn the afternoon of May 14, 1994, Arlo Morrill (51), Steve Olsen (45), and Terri Buceambuso were descending the east face of Mount T...
Huascarán Norte, North Face. In the latter half of June my brother Alan, Brian Hall and I were camped in the Llanganuco valley in preparation for an ascent of the French (Paragot) route of 1966. Alongside the large, well-organized expedition of De...
Disappointment Peak, West Side Story. This route lies on the west side of the southwest ridge of Disappointment Peak, where a large dihedral system begins about 200 yards past the base of the ridge. The first ascent of this route was made on Augus...
Longs Peak, East Face, The Casual Route, First Solo, and Other Activity, Previously Unreported. I soloed (what is now called) the Casual Route on Longs Peak on July 14, 1980, all free; it took me two hours something. My girlfriend walked up and me...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The 1966 summer camp was in Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park with 172 members and friends attending. Mount Assiniboine (11,870 feet) dominated the area. However, only two successful ascents of its summit were made. Snow...
FALLING ROCK Washington, Guye PeakOn June 1, while climbing on the lower part of the south section of Guye Peak’s West Face, Kristin Beerli was struck and injured by a large (about 100 pounds) rock slab that came loose while she was being top bela...
Kings Canyon, The Red Blade. This formation is easily seen from the Cedar Grove roadhead up the hill to the east of North Dome. In May Fred Beckey, Mike Scherer and I climbed a route on the southeast face. We walked up the Copper Creek trail for a...
EDWIN MULLER, JR.1892–1963Edwin Muller, a roving editor of the Reader’s Digest for more than 25 years, died in Good Hill, Kent, Connecticut on September 20 at the age of 71. He was born in Louisville, Kentucky on March 23, 1892, the son of a Presb...