Mace, Sedona. Molly Higgins and I completed the second route, Wind, Sand and Stars, on May 3 on this beautiful formation: some of the best desert sandstone I have climbed. Our route is on the north face with two aid pitches followed by an overhang...
Tombstone Mountains, Yukon Territory. Last summer, I made four trips to Canada's Tombstone Mountains, which lie about 60 kilometers northeast of Dawson City, Yukon, where I was living at the time. With Myk Kurth (Canada), Ian Marriott (U.K) and Ma...
FALL ON SNOW - UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Lion HeadOn April 4, one member of a group was descending the Lion Head Winter Route control of his glissade. He slid an unknown length, impacted trees al...
Thui III. Our expedition was composed of H.P. Doswald, Dr. A. Stöckli, Frl. Dr. V. Merz, J. de Vries, H. Bumbacher, M. Dubacher, J. Huber, J. Ineichen, H. Rieder, K. Stadlin, P. Lenggenhager, and me as leader. We placed Base Camp (12,625 feet) bet...
Saraghrar. An Italian expedition led by Fosco Maraini made the first ascent of Saraghrar (24,110 feet) in Chitral. In August Franco Alletto, Gianfranco Castelli, Paolo Consiglio, and Carlo Pinelli climbed to the summit from Camp V at 21,650 feet. ...
Mount ]ohannesberg, Northeast Face. This face lies between the north- east-ridge route and the usual east-ridge route from the top of the famous 3000-foot Cascade-Johannesberg ice couloir, and was first completed August 29, 1963 by Jim Stuart, Dav...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Norman Clyde PeakOn August 19, 1994, a group of six experienced mountaineers, most of whom had done over one hundred peaks in the High Sierra, were climbing the North-Northeast Ridge of Norman Clyde Peak. Each...
Half Dome. In October Dale Bard and I did a new route on the northwest face of Half Dome. The route is on the right side of the face. The first 900 feet followed a huge arch with very awkward, strenuous, loose, expanding aid climbing. The upper pa...
Jiwa Nala, Snow Leopard Peak (5,365m), Sentinel Peak (5,140m), Tribulation Point (5,125m), Snowcock Point (4,890m). In September and October Derek Buckle, Drew Cook, John Hudson, Laura Millichamp, and I, all members of the Alpine Club, visited the...
Washington, Olympics—Thirteen boys and five leaders were on a one week hiking trip in the Olympic Mountains. On August 21 they made camp early in the day at the Home Sweet Home campsite near Mt. Hopper. Being early in the day, it was decided that ...
Yerupajá Sur, Rasac, and Other Peaks. A Swiss expedition led by Ernst Schmied unsuccessfully attempted Yerupajá but on June 13 Schmied with Hermann Steuri and Rudolf Debrunner reached the 21,375-foot south summit, which an Argentine and a previous...
Everest Ascent and Attempts in the Post-Monsoon. Aside from the Out There Trekking Expedition described below, there was only one other successful expedition on the Tibetan side of Everest in the autumn. Eleven Koreans led by Lim Hyung-Chil sent P...
Marcus Baker, Chugach. A Japanese expedition led by Masayuki Ogura made the third ascent of Mount Marcus Baker, highest in the Chugach Range.
Nepalese Official Jailed for Corruption. In recent years there have been stories of official corruption concerning Nepalese permits for Everest expeditions. At the end of this season, a middle-ranking officer in Nepal's ministry of tourism, which ...
University of Washington Mountaineering Club. Membership in this new club is now 35 and still growing. In the spring the Club sponsors two trips a month. Unscheduled trips took members to the Cashmere Crags, where several first ascents and new rou...
Half Dome, Northwest Buttress. In September 1969, Bob Jensen and I climbed the northwest buttress of Half Dome. The route starts several hundred feet north of the regular northwest-face route at the left edge of an arch about 450 feet high. Mixed ...
George Dunn and I made the second ascent of the 2000-foot north face of Little Tahoma, twenty years after the original Prater-Mahre climb. Our January 8 climb was accomplished under extremely cold conditions which left the face heavily iced. No ro...
North Howser Tower, West Face, New Route. On August 8-10, Cameron Tague, 29, and Eric Greene, 32, both from Boulder, Colorado, took advantage of three days of cloudless skies to establish a new route on the 2,800-foot west face of the North Howser...
Rakaposhi. The Irish Himalayan Expedition consisted of P. O’Leary, leader, G. Garrett, E. Goulding, T. Kavanagh, B. O’Flynn, S. Payne and myself. Captain Rafi Mohn was liaison officer and we had four Hunza high-altitude porters. After arriving at ...
Annapurna I. Our eleven-man team, celebrating the 75th jubilee of the Royal Dutch Alpine Club climbed a new and safe route on the north face of Annapurna (26,545 feet). On October 13 the summit was reached by Mathieu van Rijswick and Sherpa Sona...