Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Hielo Continental Norte, Traverse, and Cerro Pared Norte and Peak 2970m, Ascents Chile, Northern Patagonia Icefield

Between November 26, 1998-January 5, 1999, Paolo Cavagnetto* and Lorenzo Nettuno (Italy) and Nigel Topping and I (U.K.) traversed on skis with pulkas a ca. 200 kilometer, north-south route (mostly following the route of Shipton’s 1963 expedition) ...

| Keywords
| Published 1999 | Author Alun Hubbard


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Canyonlands National Park

Canyonlands National Park. This preserve of 527 square miles is in the heart of the Colorado Plateau. Most of the region is remote and inaccessible to all but the most diligent wilderness explorer. Although climbing continues to gain in popularity...


Book Reviews AAJ
Late I Have Loved Thee

Late Have I Loved Thee, by Ethel Mannin. 350 pages. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1948. Price, $3.00.There have been so few novels in English dealing extensively with climbing that it is always interesting when one is found. Miss Mannin’s theme w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, West Greenland, Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula, First Ascents and Bylot Island (Baffin), Traverses and First Ascents

Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula, first ascents and Bylot Island (Baffin), traverses and first ascents. After our successful first ascent of the North Wall of Sanderson’s Hope in 2000, we wintered the boat in Aasiaat, West Greenland, and the crew for 200...


Notes AAJ
Climbing Ban in the Navajo Reservation, New Mexico and Arizona

Climbing Ban in the Navajo Reservation, New Mexico and Arizona. Dr. Earnest C. Anderson of the Los Alamos Mountaineers has forwarded us the following letter, pointing out that the Navajo’s policy has now been changed and that an absolute and uncon...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Tirokwa, Chocolate Boomerang, Mt. Odin, Le Bic Rouge de Odin, Mt. Asgard, South Tower, the Belgarian, North Tower, Whiskey Gonzales North America, Canada, Baffin Island

Over 45 days from early July through mid- August, Sean Villanueva, Stephane Hanssens, Olivier Favresse, and I had an awesome trip to Baffin Island. We hiked ca 600km, ferrying loads for only two weeks of climbing; it seems ridiculous, but the cl...

| Published 2009 | Author Nicolas Favresse, Belgium, AAC


Book Reviews AAJ
A Climber's Guide to the Coastal Ranges of British Columbia

A Climber’s Guide to the Coastal Ranges of British Columbia by Dick Culbert (British Columbia Mountaineering Club). Alpine Club of Canada, 1965. Illustrations, sketch maps, route sketches and 8 area maps in separate envelope. $3.50.This badly need...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, South Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Ice Cap First Ascents

South Greenland, Ice Cap first ascents. Scottish mountaineers, Douglas Campbell and Malcolm Thorburn, had visited the ice cap northeast of Narssarssuaq in 1997 and 1999. In order to save the additional costs and hassle of bringing pulks into the r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Stairway Glacier, Peak 3,450m, South-Southeast Face and Southwest Ridge North America, Canada, Yukon, St. Elias Range

Jonathan Wakefield and I arrived at Kluane Lake on May 16 and were able to fly within one and a half hours. We intended to make first ascents of peaks around the head of the Walsh-Denis Glacier confluence in Kluane National Park’s icefields. Mt...

| Keywords Stairway Glacier, Peak 3,450m, Wilks, Wakefield
| Published 2011 | Author Glenn Wilks, UK


Book Reviews AAJ
In the Zone: Epic Survival Stories From the Mountaineering World

In the Zone: Epic Survival Stories From the Mountaineering World. Peter Potterfield. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1996. Photographs. 270 pages. $22.95.Two of the three tales from In the Zone are of a most compelling kind—the sagas of those victims o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, Winter Attempt

Ama Dablam, Winter Attempt. Japanese led by Tsutomu Dobashi on the north ridge of Ama Dablam in the winter of 1984-5 got to 6600 meters before being forced to quit.Elizabeth Hawley


Feature Article AAJ
Nanda Devi

Nanda DeviCharles S. Houston And there she was!Cresting the ragged rocks, casually scatteredBy some huge force, we gapedStar-struck across the flowered fieldsTo where the Goddess rose.Like some vast sculpture madeBy powers not conceived by man,The...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Corillera Blanca, Apu Wall, Pararasapac Inti

Apu Wall, Pararasapac Inti. In summer 2006 Odín Pérez noticed a big unclimbed granite wall in the Quebrada Ishinca. Back in Mexico he showed me pictures, and I was committed to climbing it.We arrived in Huaraz on July 17 and soon established base ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Nandakhat and Bauljuri

Nandakhat and Bauljuri. After an approach march complicated by heavy rains which had washed out a bridge over the Pindari River, Dr. Deepak Kulkami, Milind Pathak, Dr. Suhas Mate, Dr. Deepak Rokade, Vishwas Kunte, Anil Chavas, Vishwas Dixit, Ulhas...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mazamas

The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee took a very positive stand on educating and upgrading its climbing leaders and members this year. The Basic Climbing School enrolled 270 people and graduated 163 in a course consisting of four lectures, three fi...


Book Reviews AAJ
Traprock

Traprock. Ken Nichols: The American Alpine Club. 1983, 479 pages, black-and-white photographs, sketches, maps. $19.25.In the beginning there were no guidebooks. And lo this was good. Wind and rock and sky and man were free with one another. And la...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Tagoujimt N'Tsouiant, Northeast Face, Cosmic Roof Africa, Morocco

At the end of April, Luka Krajnc, Alenka Lukic, Miha and Milena Praprotnik, and my wife Tanja and I, accompanied by Moroccan climber Jonathan, traveled to Taghia village, situated in an incredible canyon landscape of the High Atlas. Snowy peaks, g...

| Keywords au nom de la réforme
| Published N/A | Author Andrej Grmovsek


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock—Foothold Broke Off Wyoming, Tetons

John Hubalek (23) was climbing Baxter’s Pinnacle on July 6, 1987, with Randy Harrington. At 1445, Harrington was leading the second pitch of the south ridge when a foothold that he was standing on broke off. A rock, 25 to 30 centimeters in diamete...

| Published 1987


Feature Article AAJ
Welcome to Patagonia, A Primer for Wild Walls and Wilder Weather

Welcome to PatagoniaA primer for wild walls and wilder weatherby Charlie FowlerNovember 28, 1997. I’m in Kathmandu, crippled by a 1,500-foot tumble down a mountain in west Tibet. Anatoli Boukreev, on his way to Annapurna, takes me to the airport a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Summary

The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.orgDamien Gildea acknowledges contributions from Simon Abrahams, Ludovic Challeat, Patrick Degerman, Bob...