1906. Pinnacle PeakKitty Calhoun“What do you think of the trend of todays’ climbers pushing harder and harder?” The question came at a recent mountain symposium, but it could just as easily have been asked a century ago. If you consider the knowle...
Attempts on the Nevado Rurec and Uruashraju, Cordillera Blanca. At Huaraz, our group, consisting of Jac Lasner, Fred Martin, and Bill Dixon, from California, and John Dixon, from Wisconsin, were joined by two native porters, Macario Angeles and Au...
The EigerwandJohn HarlinJohn Harlin, an American climber from California, now serving with the Air Force in Europe, in August of 1962 made an ascent of what is the most impressive north face route in the Alps, the Eigerwand, the first American to ...
[Download the original PDF, full of photos and diagrams]The annual report Accidents in North America Mountaineering (ANAM) has been the definitive source of information regarding incidents occurring in the climbing and mountaineering community on ...
In 1965, when the Makalu expedition of the Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club was planned for the first time, it had to be canceled because the government of Nepal banned mountaineering in the Himalayas. The people who were then the core of...
Pik Parashutny, north face, not to summit. On July 27, Tadej Kriselj, Matej Smrkolj, and I made the first ascent of the north face of Pik Parashutny (5,360m). The 1,000m face is mainly snow and ice. We took a direct line toward the summit, climbin...
JAMES S. HUTCHINSON, JR. 1867-1959James S. Hutchinson, Jr., third in a family of four brothers, was born in San Francisco, of sturdy pioneer stock. He graduated from high school in 1886 and for the next five years worked in his father’s banking bu...
Batura II, attempt at its first ascent. A six-man team from the Saxon Alpine Club of Germany made a spirited attempt on the unclimbed Batura II (7,762m), one of the highest unclimbed points remaining in the Karakoram. Tilo Dittrich, Günter Jung, J...
In the eastern end of Yosemite Valley rises Half Dome, one of the scenic wonders of the United States. The summit of this huge granite monolith has been the goal of mountaineers, rock climbers, and hikers since 1850; the first ascent of the dome i...
These days I’m interested in making single push, alpine mixed climbs without using aid or fixed rope. Last winter Gennadiy Kabalin, Boris Tretjakov, and I had an unforgettable adventure in Ala Archa, one of my favorite places for winter climbing. ...
Mount Constance, Northeast Face. In September, Richard Hebble, Jim Richardson and I wandered in over the ancient terminal moraines of the Constance valley and excavated a camp from the detritus left by a now extinct glacier near the valley’s head....
Führer Fest, Zermatt, Switzerland, 1952. Because of the unprecedented cold and stormy weather in the Swiss Alps, last fall, I had finally resigned myself to the thought of leaving Zermatt on Sunday September 28th. The most recent storm had left a ...
MRS. JOSEPHINE DIEBITSCH PEARY1863-1955Mrs. Robert E. Peary, who died December 19 at the age of 92, was the last remaining original member of the American Alpine Club. Her passing reminds us of the dual interests that led to the formation of the C...
Annapurna IV. To celebrate the 75th anniversary of the Oberland Section of the German Alpine Club, Ulrich Kamm, Dr. Peter Weiden- thaler, Ulrich Eberhardt, Heinrich Gentner, Georg Gruber, Heinz Hüttl, Franz Leutgäb and I as leader undertook to cli...
Mount Everest, Nepal Pre-Monsoon Summary. 6 Nepalese led by Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, Summit reached on April 22 by Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa and Sherpas Sonam Tshering, Dawa Tashi, Lhakpa Nuru, Pemba Nuru, Nawang Thile. Pasang Lhamu and Sonam Tshe...
Northwest climbers have a backyard of rugged, imposing mountains, ranging from extinct volcanos, Rainier and Baker, to the great rock monoliths of Mount Index, Mount Baring, and the Pickets. Half a mile north of the international border, in the Ch...
AAC, Central Rockies Section. This has been a progressive and prosperous year for the Central Rockies Section. The 1997 Section Banquet got our Section going financially and helped carry us into the new year. The Section also had several events to...
A Note on Climbing in New Mexico[The following note was communicated to the writer by Kenneth Segerstrom of the United States Geological Survey.]“The highest New Mexican range offers no rock climbing to speak of. The Sangre de Cristos lose their r...
BRADLEY BALDWIN GILMAN 1904–1987Bradley Gilman, a long-time member of the Club’s hierarchy, served it as councilor, secretary, treasurer and president over a period of four decades. He was descended from two primeval New England families, the Gilm...
HAR Pinnacle, Corn Beef Chili Pasta à la Wahab; Pt. 5,500m, G-Strings and Plastic Boots, not to summit; Latok I, north face and north ridge, attempts; Sus Galinas. On August 12 Louis- Philippe Menard and I set up base camp on the Choktoi Glacier, ...