Glacier National Park, Mt. Siyeh, north face, new route. After being deemed “inadmissible to Canada” by a guy with a badge who surely fantasizes about playing bad cop in a cheap movie, Justin Woods and I turned around and drove south. Maybe they w...
Peak 9,968' (?), west ridge. On May 5, Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air flew Drew Lovell and me into the Martin River Glacier at the western end of the Bagley Icefield. We landed on the glacier at 4,200', just south of the impressive 7,000' sout...
Kun. From July 18 to August 15 I took part in a Hauser Excursions expedition led by Martin Lutterjohann. After a difficult rubber-boat crossing of the flood-waters of the Suru River, we set up Base Camp at 14,750 feet on the left bank of the Shafa...
J. Alex Maxwell 1910–2007J. Alex Maxwell, better known as “Lex,” was born in Yakima on July 26, 1910 to Mary Murphy Maxwell and Alexander James Maxwell.His first job after graduating from the local community college was as a bookkeeper in a local ...
Due to lower elevations and poor rock quality, the Brooks Range does not attract a lot of attention. Doug Piehl and I were drawn to the range’s remoteness and lack of other climbers. We focused on an area on the northern edge of the Endicott Mo...
Mt. Combatant, The Incisor, The Smoke Show. John Furneaux, Paul Bride, and I made base camp on a protected ledge 500 feet above the Tiedemann Glacier on Day Trip Ridge, directly below the unclimbed 2,000' south face of the Incisor. We fixed five p...
FALLING ROCK, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, DARKNESSWyoming, Devils TowerAt 0800 August 19, 1982, three climbers, Bob Larr (32), Roger Raspen (37) and Steve Crawford (18) arrived at the base of the Durrance II route on Devils Tower. They had arrived the...
The Ascent of Istor-o-NalJOSEPH E. MURPHY, JR.The Princeton Mountaineering Club Expedition to Chitral, West Pakistan, and the ascent of Istor-o-Nal resulted from Thomas A. Mutch’s facetious suggestion that he and I make our next trip to the Himala...
LOST CLIMBERS–WEATHER, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWashington, Silver PeakOn September 25, a party of two males attempted to climb Silver Peak on a very wet, foggy day. Part way up the ridge from Lake Annette, they started to get into the open ...
Huntington, West Face Attempt. In April and May, William Kito and I, both recipients of the American Alpine Club Climbing Fellowship grants, flew to the Tokositna Glacier below the west face of Huntington. Our objective was the unclimbed rock butt...
Valle Bader, Note on Naming. There has been some confusion in the past few years regarding the naming of two distinct valleys within the Torres del Paine National Park, both of which have been called Pingo (“wild horse”) Valley. The original valle...
Gunnbjornsfield region first ascents. A Royal Navy expedition comprising Tim Brookes, Guy Buckingham, Belinda Fear, A1 Grieg, Derek Scott, and Barrie Whitehead traveled 160km and climbed 14 peaks in the Watkins Mountains. These included Greenland’...
Saser Kangri Yellow Goddess of the Karakoram. Y. C. Khanna. The Chairman, Central Family Welfare Committee of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police, New Delhi, 1980. 144 pages, black-and-white and color photographs, map. Rupees 100.In these days of solo ...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite ValleyAbout 0810 on July 2, 1986, Steve Snyder, a climber near the scene of the injury, contacted Ranger Sherwood at the Little Yosemite Valley Ranger Station with a report of an injured climber at th...
The Antarctic Today: A Mid-Century Survey by the New Zealand Antarctic Society, edited by Frank A. Simpson. 389 pages, 45 illustrations, diagrams, a folding map and index. Wellington: A. H. and A. W. Reed, in conjunction with the New Zealand Antar...
The northern fringe of the Quimsa Cruz comprises Bolivia’s stash of alpine granite. North of the mining town of Villoco, spires and gendarme-protected ridges occupy the sky between 4,000m and 5,000m. Josh Garrison and I visited this area twice ...
HAPE, ASCENDING TOO FAST, INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 28, 1988, High Altitude Medical Project personnel received a report from another expedition that Masako Yamakoshi (39), a female member of a Japanese climbing team, was ill at the...
Dragontail Peak, Sundown Route. Keith Boyer and I climbed this new route, which begins to the right of the northwest face route (Davis-Beckey, 1962) and is separated from it by a prominent black ridge which leads directly to the summit. The first ...
Grand Teton (13,747). Climbed by twenty-six distinct parties, a total of seventy-six signatures being registered on the summit (seventy-one men and five women). Authorized guide service offered for the first time, Paul K. Petzoldt serving as guide...
Climbing Along the Richardson Highway. Thirty-one members of the Iowa Mountaineers drove in August 1955, to the Castner Glacier area, one of the most accessible in Alaska. The group reached Castner Creek about 45 miles from Big Delta on August 22....