K2 Attempt and Broad Peak Ascent. On July 16, Oscar Cadiach, Gabriel Gutiérrez, Xavier Pérez, Anton Ricard, Jaume Torm, Enric Hernández, Jordi Canals, Carles Valles, Lluis Gómez, Toni Arbonés, Joan Gelabert and I were all in Base Camp along with J...
Kangchungtse or Makalu II Attempt. Our commercial expedition started on a really bad note. Britons Mark Miller, the original leader, Victor Radvills, who was going to be the third guide, were both killed in the Pakistani International Airlines cra...
From June 14 to 18, Jim Donini and I did a new route on Mount Bradley’s southeast buttress from a base camp in the Ruth Gorge. The route, dubbed the Bourbon Bottle Route (in retaliation for Andreas Orgler’s Wine Bottle Route on Mount Dickey, and a...
Dhaulagiri, Ascents, Attemps and Tragedies in the Post-Monsoon. There were eight expeditions in the fall to Dhaulagiri (8167 meters, 26,795 feet), all of them on the standard northeast ridge. An International party led by Italian Marco Berti until...
In 2008, during an expedition to the Minya Konka Range (AAJ 2009, pp 350-352), Sébastien Moatti and I climbed a nameless summit of 5,200m in the Tshiburongi Valley north of Riuchi Gongga. While making this ascent, I noticed a towering granit...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, NO HARD HATWashington, Mount StuartOn the morning of June 25, Gordon Rieker (31) and Chuck Buzzard (40) left their base camp at 0315 and headed up Ulrich’s Couloir, a narrow gully leading to the summit of Mount ...
Dougal Haston: The Philosophy of Risk. Jeff Connor. Edinburgh: Canongate Books, 2002. 225 pages. Paperback. $15.00.Jeff Connor is a seasoned journalist and author whose book on wild men of the Creag Dhu was well received. In researching this book ...
Elena Parga and I spent a week in Kathmandu, waiting for the plane to Lukla. As far as Island Peak base camp the trail was full of tents and people, but then it was another world—nobody, only mountains. Beyond Lhotse Shar base camp we were forced ...
YearTotal Number of Reported AccidentsNumber of Deaths1947 15111948 28151949 1791950 3081951 1841952 35141953 25121954 3181955 3461956 46101957 45171958 32111959 3716
North Chasm View Wall, The Pig Series. The Pig Series is comprised of two routes, No Pig Deal (V 5.11+ R) and No Pig Left (V 5.12 C1), that ascend the western end of the North Chasm View Wall in the Black Canyon. Mike Pennings and I descended the ...
Denali’s West Rib Solo in WinterDavid StaeheliHOPING TO CLIMB DENALI’S SOUTH Face solo in the style of its first winter ascent (AAJ, 1983, pages 93-97), my pilot friend Paul Claus set me down on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier on Februa...
Muztagh Ata (7,546m), south ridge. On August 24 Valery Shamalo and I from St. Petersburg reached the main summit of Muztagh Ata via the south ridge. As we were well acclimatized after our ascent of Koskulak and had previous experience on the Kalax...
CheckmateA change in strategy brings success on the northwest face of Tengkangpoche in NepalUeli SteckWe had climbed light and fast, but not fast enough. On April 10, we started up Tengkangpoche’s northwest face. With our meagre rack—three Camalot...
ARTHUR OLIVER WHEELERMay 1st, 1860 - March 20th, 1945As rugged in character as the mountains he surveyed, few have been so completely identified with mountains and mountaineering as Arthur Oliver Wheeler, who led the strenuous life of a mountain t...
FALL ON ROCK, ROPE SEVERED BY FALLING ROCKAlaska, Portage GlacierI am sorry to report the death of Steve Garvey (40) on August 13. He was well known, experienced, and a much-liked Alaskan climber. Garvey, as he was known by all, was a friend of AM...
Gasherbrum II, north face, first north-south crossing of the mountain, alpine style. We left Italy for Pakistan in early June, reaching Islamabad and then Kashgar, China in the following days. After waiting two days for the trucks coming from the ...
Incredible Hulk, free activity. True to form, Dave Nettle called me in the midst of a heavy Sierra winter. As I often hear from him, “I just want to put a bug in your ear.” But no bug was needed. When Dave calls, people listen.We cruised snow most...
Crescent Mountain, North Ridge. Although of easy access from the Twisp River Road, Crescent Mountain has seen little activity. On a lazy afternoon on June 15, my brother Carl and I climbed its north ridge. We traversed the north-west basin to gain...
Canadian Rockies, Various Activity. For the past few years, most of the new multipitch rock routes to go up in the Front Ranges have been in the Ghost River area. Owing to its secluded location, this region has not been developed as extensively as...
Vera Komarkova 1942-2005Vera Komarkova, a strong and courageous mountaineer, talented and respected plant ecologist and teacher, fiercely dedicated mother of two sons, and a loyal and caring friend, died of complications of breast cancer treatment...