“Crown Prince Spire”, North Face, Minaret Group. On July 16 Kim Grandfield and I did the first ascent of the north face of “Crown Prince Spire”, a half-mile south of Dead Horse Lake. There were five pitches. NCCS F6.Amadeo Tagliapietra, Unaffiliated
Peak C, New Route. On August 9, Benny Bach and I climbed an eight-pitch, 5.7+ route on the north face of Peak C in the Gore Range. The incessant rain of the summer of 1997, supposedly a side-effect of the El Niño weather phenomenon, left the face ...
The Royal Gorge, Tombstone Wall. At dawn on June 20, Fred Pfahler and I rappelled into the depths of Royal Gorge. After traversing a long, cactus-filled ledge, we arrived at the broken base of the 900-foot wall that plunged down to us from the nor...
Peaks on Bylot Island. Between July 2 and August 15, the Reverend Laurie Dexter, Greg Good, Rob Kelly, Jim Savage and I traversed Bylot Island from Tay Bay on the northwest coast to Button Point on the southeast. We carried all supplies on one-man...
Soda Springs Basin, Yum Kipper, Toad Rage. In the basin south of Candlestick Tower, and below the White Rim Trail, Fran Bagenal and I attempted the obvious large tower, which we called Yum Kipper, in April, climbing two pitches. We retreated, enco...
Bonanza Peak, Northeast Ridge. Mark Thornton and I climbed this route on July 20, 1978. Some loose surface rock, though mainly solid. Bypass towers as necessary. (NCCS III F7.)David Seman, Unaffiliated
Rolling Thunder, North Ridge. This peak has a prominent northeast ridge which is commonly seen in profile when it is approached from the east. The north ridge, first climbed August 30, 1967, by Hugh Scott and Harold Woodham, lies west of this nort...
Cholatse, North Face. Our expedition was composed of four French climbers (aged 21-26) selected by the French Mountaineering Federation (FFME): Boris Badaroux, Philippe Batoux, Marc Challamel, Christophe Mora and Paul Robach (leader). Searching fo...
The Gold Wall. Tom Fender and I climbed a new route near the Ribbon Fall amphitheater in May. It lies on the steep wall just left of the entrance to the amphitheater. The climb began in the center of the face. The first two leads were all aid, wit...
Mount Peskett. East of Mount Murchison a number of summits, only some of which have been climbed, rise to over 10,000 feet. Late in July we entered by way of Spreading Creek, turning southeast up its second tributary to camp at timberline above th...
Pisco, Cordillera Blanca. The Englishmen Alfred Gregory and Harry Stembridge climbed Pisco and another peak of about 18,000 feet northwest of Chacraraju, described as "one of the long ridges at the back of Chacraraju”.
Istor-o-Nal. The Japan Women’s West Asian Expedition climbed in Turkey, Iran and Pakistan. The ladies were Kyoko Sato, leader, Setsuko Watanabe, Hisae Izumi and Hiroko Ashiya. After climbing various peaks, including Ararat and Demavend, they left ...
Attempt on Bandako and Upper Munjan Valley. Our group, Harold Mellor, Chris George, John Wilson, Brian Serff, Jim Murray and myself as leader, left Britain on July 10 to travel overland. In Kabul permission was granted for the expedition to visit ...
Rasac, South Face. Our United Kingdom-New Zealand expedition, Julie- Ann Clyma, Martin Hair, David Hood and I, left the Cordillera Blanca to establish Base Camp on June 8 in the Cordillera Huayhuash on Jahuacocha at 5050 meters. Hair and I decided...
Mounts Gibson, Wates, McCoubrey, Above Steele Glacier. In early July John Tuthill, Jim Santos, Merry Farnum, Cathy Putnam and Chip Morgan, led by Tom Lyman with Jürg Hofer and me as whippers-in, were dropped by helicopter on the east side of the S...
Tirich Mir. On August 10 Jon Dasler, Dennis Olmstead, John Smolich and Allen Webb reached the summit of Tirich Mir (7708 meters, 25,260 feet) via the Upper Tirich Glacier and west saddle. They were supported by Lath Flanagan, Tom Gordon, Terry Jon...
Alaska Coast Range. On 16 June 1949 Fred Ayres, a member of a party of climbers organized by Fred Beckey, of Seattle, slipped and broke his ankle on a steep, glacier-scoured rock slope about 1100 feet above the waters of Twin Glacier Lake in the T...
Ama Dablam Attempt. The British twins, Alan and Adrian Burgess, and American Craig Ballenger attempted to climb the south ridge, the normal route, on Ama Dablam in winter. They reached a high point of 6400 meters on December 16 and then gave up in...
Moose’s Tooth, South Summit. Dave Lunn, Dave O’Neil and I were flown by Cliff Hudson to the Ruth Glacier just west of the Moose’s Tooth. We then skirted the broken east edge of the Ruth by going south (right) and then northeast before ascending th...
Suli Top, Eastern Kumaon. An Indian expedition led by Rama Kant Mahadik successfully climbed Suli Top (6300 meters, 20,670 feet). They ascended an icefall which had three steps to reach the north col. After a four-day storm they completed this fir...