Patagonia, An Early Assessment of the 1974 Season. (This letter was written on February 8, 1974. Since no detailed information is available as we go to press, we have included this incomplete report.—Editor.) Yesterday Carlos Comesaña arrived from...

Kangchungtse Post-Monsoon Ascents. An expedition of six Spanish Basques successfully climbed Kangchungtse (Makalu II; 7678 meters, 25,190 feet) by its south ridge. The summit was reached by the leader José Ramón Aquirare, Ramón Baztarrika and Mike...

FALL ON ROCK, INAPPROPRIATE FOOTWEARWashington, Icicle Creek CanyonOn October 1, 1991, about 1400, Jon Thompson (22), climbing with Marty Thayer (28), had just finished climbing “Face Lift” (5.10a) and was casually rehearsing opening moves on “Bee...

FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATKentucky, Red River GorgeAs is usually the case, Breakfast Burrito (5.10d) had a line of climbers waiting for it on June 6, and when she finally had a chance, CL (age unknown) took her turn on Breakfast Burrito. CL and ano...

Peak 8800, Ascent, and Mount Foraker Massif, The Way. Not being able to find a partner for a June climb on the Foraker Massif, I found someone to do a day climb with. Tony and I climbed a low-angled snow gully on the south side of Peak 8800. The g...

PULMONARY EDEMA—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Charles Gasser (20) was part of a six-person expedition ascending Mount McKinley via the Muldrow Glacier route. They began their climb from Kantishna on April 22, 1976. At 7 a.m. on May 18, Gasser began showin...

DARKNESS—LATE START, DEHYDRATION, HYPOTHERMIA (CARRIED NO WATER), INADEQUATE CLOTHING, CREATING A HAZARDOUS CONDITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Manure Pile Buttress, NutcrackerOn March 30, at 2310, Reza Tabrizi (22) called NPS dispatch from the ...

Ski Traverse of the Whole Alaska Range. George Beilstein, Steve Eck, Scott Woolums and I* skied the 350 or 400 miles from Mentasta Lake, some 50 miles from Tok Junction on the Glenallen Highway, to the Kichatna Mountains in about 45 days. Our rout...

RAPPEL ERROR—INCORRECT USE OF EQUIPMENT Alberta, Smith-Dorrien Valley, Ranger CreekAt 1630 on November 9, authorities at Peter Lougheed Provincial Park received a radio call from M.P., who was at the scene of a rappelling accident on an ice climb ...

Dhaulagiri Attempt. An experienced climber from the Netherlands, Bart Vos, came to Nepal with a different sort of ambitious project, to solo Dhaulagiri via its standard northeast ridge without teammates, without climbing Sherpas and without any ot...

Rhino Horn. On August 3, Tony Valdez and I made the first ascent of the Rhino Horn, a 300-foot tower composed of the Slickrock member of the Entrada sandstone. It is located 10.8 miles east of Moab, Utah. (II, 5.10.) Bego Gehardt began the climb w...

Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Our season was significantly impacted this year by the death of two friends, Karen McNeill and Sue Nott, who were lost on Mt. Foraker. Karen and Sue had both befriended many of the Talkeetna staff and we...

Kun. Now that access to the Nun-Kun group is easy, it is frequented by many and not always well qualified parties. Accidents have become common. One group had better luck than some. Three Japanese attempted Kun in late August. Masaki Matsumoto was...

Huntington, South Face. Jay Smith and Paul Teare climbed a difficult new route on the south face of Huntington to the right of the Harvard Route. This is described in a full article earlier in this Journal.

Mount Rainier, Nisqually Ice Cliff. Jerry Hasfjord and I made the first winter ascent of the Nisqually Ice Cliff after several previous attempts on March 3 and 4. Since we were afraid of encroaching bad weather, we went light and fast. This enable...

South Teton (12,500) and Middle Teton (12,769). Middle Teton traversed on July 17th, by Robert L. M. Underhill and the writer. Ascent by north face (new route) ; descent by southwest ridge and southwest couloir.On August 22nd George E. Goldthwaite...

Attempt on Pucahirca Central, Cordillera Blanca. Under the leadership of Bruno Berlendis, an expedition of the Bergamo section of the Italian Alpine Club made an unsuccessful attempt on Pucahirca Central (19,718 feet). On June 10 they established ...

Bhagirathi III, Southwest Face. Our three-man expedition climbed the Allen Fyffe route on Bhagirathi III. We got to Base Camp at Nandanban of August 5 and acclimatized until August 15. Kwag Bong-Sin and Jang Hong-Youl set out from Advance Base at ...

Patagonian Season, 1976. As we go to press, we receive the first news of climbing in the current season from Vojslav Arko, who writes: “The expedition of the Club Andino Bariloche headed by Jorge Skvarca finally made the first ascent of Cerro Moya...

“Scimitar” Glacier, Glacier Peak. Seeking a first ascent, Klindt Vielbig and party climbed this narrow, cliff-enclosed glacier on July 12, only to discover subsequently that it had been climbed in 1957 by Bill Prater and party. No previous report ...